This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My speedometer jumps and shows a message of POWER STEERING. It makes my fuel line jump as well. I've recently gotten my starter fixed because my car wouldn't start. My tire warning stays on and my tires are new and set at the right PSI. My ABS comes and goes ALL THE TIME and nothing needs to be fixed. My car jerks really hard when all of this is going on.
I was drivein on high way in my car got hard to turn so i stoped and let my uncle drive cause he is more stronger then from that point it got harder to trun it amost locked up on me who know what would have happen but i was almost to my house so we were ablue to get it here then i called my car lot and i hade to drive it there it was so impossible to do but with the help of my uncle he got it there and im in school and stuck with out a car intell its fixed and i have to pay laber wait on part to come in thay say etc its just alot and thank god i was not alone
i own a 5-speed manual transmission which should roll freely while in neutral. after starting engine while on a slight incline in a parking lot, the vehicle would not roll in neutral, as if all brakes were being applied. i thought that by driving the vehicle on the road the brakes would free up, but they did not. i shut the engine off and on a few times but that did not make a difference. i could only move forward at 5-10 mph in first gear to get the vehicle home, which fortunately was just 5 blocks away. something smelled terrible like burning wires or brake pads. even after letting the vehicle sit in my driveway for a few hours it would not free up the brakes which were being applied. then i read a tip on an internet users forum: remove a fuse labeled "ABS2" and voila! it freed up the brakes! i can drive the vehicle normally but obviously without ABS capability. now my 19 yr old grandson, who turned the vehicle over to me because of this issue, states this happened to him on two different occasions *while driving on the road!* imagine having your brakes applied while at full speed: THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE WHICH COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH
The accelerator pedal constantly fails to activate immediately after turning it on. it used to happen on cold or rainy days. It now fails to activate all the time. Took it to an independent service center and they said it could be the wiring due to water getting in the car. My car did have a leak and it was fixed but many months after these issues started occurring. I get a check engine light with a service traction control, service esc, and code p2138 is shown.
- West Chicago, IL, USA
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The receptacle that holds the brake light gets so hot that it melts and has melted the plastic around it as well. The bulb won-€™t stay lit because of this therefore the brake and turn signal lights constantly burn out and it could cause an accident due to lack of signaling and could also very easily start a fire. It started about 2-3 years after we bought the car new with just having to just replace the bulbs much too often, yearly, then a couple of times a year, and now the bulbs are not even lasting a month and the components are actually melting.
I have a fuel leak on the drivers side middle of the vehicle, in front of the rear tire. This leak is from the fuel lines around the heat shield. It appears the fuel lines are corroded. I tried to get a price quote on parts from the dealership, but they required me to take in in for diagnostics, because they said it was a common problem and should be covered under a recall. After $100 they told me it wasn't covered and finally quoted me on the repair, over $1,000. Not only do I feel the parts were faulty, I feel like I was scammed out of an additional $100 to confirm what I already knew. The vehicle leaks when stationary, if you turn the key off the fuel lines will drain onto the ground until the lines empty. Starting the vehicle takes about 5 seconds for the pump to get new fuel to the engine. When the engine is on the fuel will continually drizzle out. The leak was not noticed until a mechanic pointed it out in September of 2018, but has now grown to a big issue. Given the proximity of the leak to the exhaust I am concerned this could be a major issue for someone driving in the South, in the summer.
Car would not turn key or some times start or go into gear. It is always hit and miss. With this car car still has only 40 some thousand miles on engine. Always broke down in drive way or any where ever parked. When driving sometimes several different lights on dash comes on all at once. This car has been a real problem from 2010.
The contact owns a 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt. While the contact was seated in the driver's seat without the key in the ignition, the vehicle attempted to start independently. The contact stated that the internal lighting flashed on and off. The contact stated that the vehicle attempted to start independently until the battery was depleted. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where the battery was recharged. Classic Chevrolet of lake city (6190 w blue rd, lake city, mi 49651, (888) 580-3758) was called and informed of the failure. The contact stated that the ignition was replaced on four separate occasions; however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
The vehicle began having electrical problem a few years after purchase in 2008. The power windows became non operable, radio speakers stopped working, door locks don't unlock via power switch, ac/ heat issues (doesn't function properly), and wire harnesses near seat belt column (where belt meets floor) became severed from seat belt column movement.... this caused air bags to stop functioning.
The battery of this vehicle, and even new ones from the same manufacturer, have the battery installed in the trunk from the factory. There's a brittle plastic tube that vents the toxic fumes generated by an operating battery to the outside of the car. If this tube is damaged/broken, it allows fumes to enter the trunk, and seep into the cabin. The fumes corrode your lungs, which in some cases, such as mine, leads to hypoxia, meaning that the operator of the vehicle is dizzy & confused. This issue not only affects the owners/occupants of the vehicles with this design, but could potentially endanger unsuspecting pedestrians/motorists due to the operator of a vehicle becoming incapacitated, or they may simply black out at the wheel due to a lack of oxygen to the brain. The fumes are allowed to build up in the cabin of the car if the windows are left up and the air conditioner is on recirculate. The fumes are odorless meaning that you can go about operating the vehicle for an extended period of time without noticing that there's a problem, not that it would matter since the fumes corrode the nerve in your nose that allow you to have a sense of smell. The symptoms are flu like, which may lead a victim to ignore their symptoms. In my particular instance, the fumes that were entering the cabin of my car was sulfuric acid. This design flaw could easily lead to death, if not from the highly toxic, carcinogenic fumes that are entering the cabin of the vehicle, then the confusion/dizziness that the fumes lead to, which not only endangers the operator of the vehicle, but unsuspecting pedestrians/motorists who may be in the path of a vehicle with an operator who has blacked out, or is simply confused/dizzy due to a lack of oxygen to the brain. The part number of the tube for my specific car is 15247277. Trunk batteries should be outlawed unless aftermarket.
The gauges on the dash go haywire. A subtle 'ding ding' sound is made. The engine has difficulty accelerating and will only do so in spurts. A power steering warning is displayed on the dash and the steering wheel becomes very tight and impossible to turn. Car will give you about a minute, tops, to do something before shutting down completely. Issue happens randomly but seems to be triggered by the car decelerating into first gear, at a stoplight for example. However, this past incident happened while on the interstate and nearly caused a collision with a semi. My particular VIN is not included in the loss of power steering recall involving Chevrolet Cobalts, General Motors recall number:10023 and NHTSA recall number: 10V073000. However, based on performance the past 6 months, I sincerely believe it should be.
"takata recall" I am buying this vehicle from a buy here pay here lot.during my experiernce driving this car. I've had trouble steering the wheel.I brought in in to tire discounters for inspection testing. The result the auto tech explained to me in writing that I have electrical issues with the car.also the tires was placed on backwards and the car needs new tires.the check engine light is on in the car.in motion on the street when experiencing this problem.the sensors are bad.this vechicle is programmed and needs a remote.I have to go to the dealer resolve it.time auto sales in latonia Kentucky previous owner of this car.
I first had noticed my front passenger speaker would cut in and out. It didn't matter if the car was stationary or if I was driving. The following week I was driving through the parking lot of my job and the doors locks started locking and unlocking rapidly by themselves. And now they rarely ever do either when I try and push the lock buttons. So they either have to stay locked or unlocked depending the mood of the car. The following week I had a gas leak and had to have it serviced because that is very dangerous. The mechanic told me that there was a recall on that plastic piece to fuel system but only in southern states and I live in the North. And not to long after that my turn signal switch wouldn't stay on or it wouldn't shut off by it's self. Also dangerous trying to hold switch on while making a turn.
Battery keeps dying and key is stuck in ignition. Have to keep replacing battery every 8 months which are brand new 5 year battery. Fuel line was replaced but still strong odor of gas and rotting fuel line again. Safety hazard! this has been reported by a large number of people. Why is there not a recall on this"? vehicle was stationary at the time. This happens all the time so I can only put one date in here. Something is also wrong with my electrical system and the check engine light comes on all the time after diagnosing with my mechanic and having it turned off. Why isn't GM doing anything to help us"
Instrument cluster malfunctioning, speedometer and warning indicators flashing, going out, resuming normal operation, then repeating the failure symptoms repeatedly. During failure symptoms the transmission and engine bog down, stall and the power steering assist fails (with engine still running). Random electrical issues such as the check engine light, car alarm sensor, etc flash on and off then start working again totally normally. Can not get the failure to occur at the dealership or mechanics. Fails several times a week. Fails when driving on street, highway at low speeds, medium speeds or high speeds.
The contact owns a 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt. The contact stated that the upon turning ignition key in the ignition the vehicle failed to start. There were no warning indicators. The vehicle was towed to the tim lally Chevrolet dealer (440-232-2000, 24999 miles rd, warrensville heights, oh 44128) where the technician was unable to complete a diagnostic test but stated that the power control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and promised to investigate as a case was opened. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was about 13,000.
The dash message says power steering. As I was excellerating in the on ramp of the highway, the RPM jumped up to 6,000 all on its own and now it will not shift gears, does not read any mph, and can barely go more than 20mph. This was unexpected and had no warnings prior to. Although it still functions (turns on, runs, has all power available, has reverse) it is ultimately disabled. Also, the fuel lines/ fuel pump failed causing a gas leak, making it a challenge to start the vehicle. I have patched the fuel line as a temporary fix. I have already replaced the lower control arms and the timing chains at my own expense
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Midvale, UT, USA