This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The passenger low beam headlight hardly ever works as soon as the car is turned on the light is out, if tapped or bumped light will come back on, such as with your hand or while moving. I have replaced bulb few times still having trouble.
I have taken the car multiple times to get it fixed. As I am driving the car the radio turns off. Then the engine itself turns off. Not only that, as I am driving it the steering wheel stops working and the car completely shuts off. I have spent over 7,000 dollars in repairs and I can no longer afford for repairs. No one seems to know what the problem is. I would really like to open an investigation on this car as my life seems to be threatened and no one can tell me why the car goes on and off while in drive. I almost got in a major highway accident because it turned off while I was driving 60 miles per hour on a busy highway. Please look into this problem and help me get back to a normal car. This has been happening for almost a 2 years now.
I have had nothing but issues with the car since I've had it and fixed everything that was wrong with it the palm Chevrolet dealership that said was wrong with it and yet nothing has been resolved my stabilitrak control service system light came on along with the check engine light as they are flashing. I'm having a very hard time getting traction I have a 1 year old daughter and I don't feel that this car is safe for her. I want this issue looked into I have spent money that I don't have to just try to resolve the problem and yet it's not fixed.
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated after shifting to park and exited the vehicle, it began to roll away while the key was removed from the ignition without warning. The contact had to quickly re-enter the vehicle and depress the emergency brake in order to stop the vehicle from rolling away. Shortly after the contact attempted to restart the vehicle and the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was not taken to a local dealer or independent mechanic for diagnostic test. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 34,000. The contact referenced the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 16V502000 (electrical system, power train).
My screen for the radio starts to flicker, and the entire car shuts down. After waiting for 5 or 10 minutes the car powers back up and starts. Another time, while I was still parked the radio starts to flicker again. So I turn off the car, but the key is stuck in the ignition and when you turn the key you get nothing. It doesn't start and you get no power. After waiting a few minutes again the car powers up on its own while key is still in the ignition. This also happened once while I was driving. Luckily I was just taking off, so I wasn't going very fast.
- Pemberton, NJ, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
In 2018 code P2099 was fixed on my 2013 Chevy Cruze and now the code is popping up again it's only been a year and a half and the part was fixed by the Chevy dealer ship it's was brand new, so why do I need another please contact me concerning this matter thanks @ [xxx] or [xxx]. information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
Car loses electrical. Radio display goes blank. Signal light use becomes very quiet. Key becomes stuck in ignition cannot be removed. With key on mode hear clicking sound. No electrical activity just sound. After about 10 minutes car comes back to life. On occasion I get displays on dash telling me to open and close driver window. Car can die anywhere. Pulled into gas pumps shutoff pulled out key. After getting gas put key into ignition went to turn on key became stuck and their was no electrical activity. Putting key in on mode I heard fast clicking but nothing else. After ten minutes it's like the car turned on. I had to turn the key a couple times before the engine came on. I get various display notices like the one I attached. Or I get stabil trak display. This has happened several times. It takes power steering and I am unable to drive.
I bought my car from a used car lot in March. After about 2 weeks, I started having issues with the cruise control, after a few months, the cruise switch had to be replaced because it stopped working all together. During the time I've had the vehicle, I've had to replace the thermostat control, as well as a coil in the engine. For the past 2-3 months or so, I'll be driving down the highway and the service stability track will show up, with the traction control and the check engine light blinking. My car wont let me speed up, and it will slowly slow down. If I have my cruise on when this happens, the car's RPM will shoot up in an attempt to get back to the speed I had it set at. After about a minute with the lights on, the check engine light will stop blinking and the car will go back to normal (the traction light wont turn off until I turn off the car). I have taken my car to my mechanic, and his computer shows code UO100, which is "lost communication with engine control module", which is a very general code and could come from anywhere. He cannot figure out what is wrong with it. The wires seem connected properly, and everything seems fine, other than the light issue. It happens while I'm driving down the highway, at any random moment. It occurs at least every 3 days, if not everyday.
Chevy Cruze 2013 ltz turbo, I have the paperwork stating it is turbo. I took it to a dealerships because check engine light came on. I was told it was fine. They cleared everything. I have been told different things whether it has turbo or not. The turbo was supposedly checked several times since I bought it. The mechanic at dealership said it did not have turbo. I asked the head mechanic to drive the car with me in it. He did, the head mechanic convinced me it had turbo and it was working fine, I said it doesn't act like it to me, he said this is all its got and that's it, the car is fine. The head mechanic said it was fine, I said something is not right, he convinced everything was and to push the clear button when it would be and it would be fine. This happened between 2014 and 2018 this has happened over the years. I was told to basically touch the clear button. Codes started to pop up; it started with the window. I was told to hit clear button when this happens, so I did. Then check engine codes pop up on dash saying: Role window down and back up, check transmission, key remote not detected, start with remote start, check air bags, it has done this off and on for a several years, off and on. Now this week it got really bad to the point the car just shuts off, then it will not start, until I touch the clear button or I have to unhook the battery otherwise the dash will not turn off and I can't start it. I took it to have codes checked and mass flow sensor, then it said vapor canister purge valve then map sensor, I replaced all, the car still acts the same. Codes still appear on dash. Start the car it seems ok, then you drive it and the engine just shuts off and codes start to appear again. Should this be checked into. I can't find records, I will try, but I can tell you dealerships.
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze. When the contact attempted to start the vehicle, he heard a clicking noise coming from the vehicle and it failed to start without warning. The contact had to jumpstart the battery in order for the vehicle to start and resume normal operation. The vehicle was taken to klein auto (111 w madison St, clintonville, wi 54929, (715) 823-2135), but was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred multiple times intermittently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that an electrical system failure occurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and did not assist. The failure mileage was approximately 120,000.
I am writing to request an investigation into Chevrolet Cruze heater blend door actuator failures. The issue is a small plastic gear that strips out and does not allow the blend door to cycle from windshield defrost / dash vents / and floor vents. This is a high safety concern in cold / rainy weather driving due to the vehicle operator is unable to adjust the bled door to defrost the windshield. This in turn allows the windshield to become fogged, (or frosty in extreme cold) which leads to very poor visibility. I have a professional youtube channel that shows the issue in detail the link is https://youtu.be/I5pdaia0P-8 quotes to repair this issue range from $800 to $1500. Being this failure can lead to an accident caused from poor visibility from an obvious design flaw, to cut corners and save money, this needs to be looked at. My video has nearly 11,000 views from people with this problem. Also almost every forum online have people discussing this problem. I believe it is N bad taste for Chevrolet to not yet acknowledge this as a recall.
Coolant is leaking and needing to be refilled daily, service engine light on everyday. 'engine hot, car needs to idle' comes on anytime you drive it. Engine powered reduced. As for electrical, while front panel will go black and everything will shut down for a couple hours or even days.
I purchased this vehicle (2013 Chevrolet Cruze) in 2016 and it had mileage of 3,500 miles. Less than a month of ownership an alert showed and sounded in the dash lights that the rear driver's side door was open when it wasn't and this was while in a park position and while in motion on any road. The alert was almost constant so I brought it to a repair shop which replaced the latch in the door 3 separate times and the problem still occurred. Eventually I asked to just have the latch disconnected in the door because no one could fix it and stop the alert and sounds from going off. So now I have a $300 latch disconnected inside the door because that wouldn't fix the problem plus I have to manually lock and unlock that door if I need to use it when all of the other 3 doors can be electronically locked/unlocked with the fob or the lock/unlock button in the car. Now a new problem that is currently going on is the rear brake light in the back windshield is very dim while in a park position or while in motion driving on any road. It still works but is not as bright as it used to be. It's a light bar that sits in the back window acting as a 3rd brake light and it does not contain light bulbs. Also, I've had a couple of other alerts show up in the dash for a day or more while in a park position or in motion driving on any road and then they go away after a few days. I suspect this vehicle has an electrical problem and I can't afford to have it diagnosed.
Car has been returned to dealer for repairs concerning the motor and electrical systems. They have not been serviced outside of the dealership. Car frequently quits and has to be jumpstarted.
My check engine keeps going on and off and when comes on give out power little by little till my engine reduce power comes up and gives out and almost crashed on freeway serval times
Takata recall a few months after I purchased this vehicle the check engine light came on then it goes off the last few months it's back on and makes a noise when the air conditioning system is on.
My vehicle repeatedly ran hot everytime I would drive it over a mile on the road. My husband changed the thermostat, always made sure it had coolant, checked my hoses, and replaced the water pump. But eventually it blew a head gasket. We noticed it did so when we seen water had mixed into the oil. Supreme Chevrolet replaced the engine at 96,000 miles in November 2016 under warranty. I drove the car about 54,000 miles with the replaced engine and it too started running hot everytime I would drive it about a mile down the road. The dash light would say turn A/C off and idle engine or turn off engine due to high temperature. We changed the radiator, the hoses, the water pump, and the thermostat on the car and it remained running hot with high temperatures until that engine too blew a head gasket.the dealership will not warranty the second engine although it only has 67,000 miles on the new engine. And now I am left with no vehicle and still owe $6700 on the Chevrolet Cruze due to the faulty coolant system.
Driving last night from work to home at [xxx] around 7pm, I started getting messages in my cluster such as service stabilitrak, service traction control and engine power is reduced. Just suddenly my car lost all the power and throttle when I was travelling in a highway around 70 mph on the second fastest lane. It was very scary and dangerous situation once my throttle was complete unresponsive and could find myself at the middle of the highway at 5mph. My instinct was to turn on the hazard lights and try to move the car to the slowest lane as safe as possible. I feel lucky that no one hit me in the back and I consider that I was lucky to have this problem at this time of the evening. Luckily I was able to take the exit [xxx] and from there park the car to evaluate it. I could not find any visible defect either internally or on engine compartment. I turned off the engine and on several times and still had the same cluster messages and derated power. I was still able to drive the car safely to the parking lot of [xxx] looking for a safer place to wait for my insurance company. When waiting for the aaa operator I was able to re-start the car with no display message but only with the engine check light on. I drove the car in the parking lot and noticed the car seemed to be ok. Once on that time I was still waiting for the aaa operator I decided to take [xxx] and I was able to safe arrive home. Checking the symptom I had in google and youtube I learned about the problem with the negative battery cable which is already known by NHTSA and GM. I hope my incidence can be investigated and a decision for recall be taken.I don't see any difference to what experienced with the ignition switch topic therefore this issue should be considered as potential recall. Parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
I contacted Chevrolet customer service on 1-10-18 and spoke to a supervisor. Reiterating call. The vehicle has 35000 miles on it. It is out of warranty because of purchase date. On 4 different occasions this is what happened. #1) Nov 18 lights were on, flashers were on and radio was on while the vehicle was in the garage and key was in the off position #2) Dec 2018 same as #1 #3) Dec 2018 vehicle was running with the key in the off position in the garage. By running I mean the engine was running and exhaust fumes were everywhere. #4) Jan 2019. Same as #3. this is very dangerous and could have started a fire or carbon dioxide poisoning could've occurred. The representatives told me there is no recalls which I already knew and stated they would not pay for a repair. I told them about a service bulletin, they denied there was one. There are two numbers PI1329(date 0ct 14) and a NHTSA bulletin ( id number 10114279) date Oct 14. I'd appreciate your prompt attention to this serious matter and would like this fixed for free at the dealer. Can you contact Chevrolet and tell them there should be a recall
March 2016. Problem: Car not accelerating correctly, diagnosis: Accelerator pedal position sensor broken March 2018. Problem: Car overheating and losing power over 40mph, diagnosis: Coolant hose break May 2018. Car overheating and losing power over 40mph, diagnosis: Transmission cooler line break June 2018: Problem: Spedometer started malfunctioning and car began sputtering on highway at 65mph, diagnosis: Transmission computer (input and output sensor) fried January 2019. Problem: Cooling draining extremely fast and car making gurgling noise (at all speeds), diagnosis: Water pump break, thermostat break, serpentine belt and 5. January 2019: Problem: Oil leak, diagnosis: Timing cover gasket need replacement
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Murfressboro, TN, USA