This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Car all of a sudden started to slow down on the highway throwing all kinds of codes like service stabillitrac, throttle body position sensor, pressure intake manifold and lots of other ones
My reverse camera stays on for a few minutes after putting it in drive which is distracting. I keep looking down at the screen to see how long it takes to go out and back to my radio screen. The trunk randomly opens even when I am driving and then it won't open at all. The Bluetooth randomly cuts out while I am driving and talking on the phone which causes me to become distracted while driving. There is an issue when I put gas in the car as well. I have bought 2 gas caps, the one on there now is OEM dealer cap. The cap is on with 3-4 clicks, no check engine light but when I stop at a light, the car feels like it going to stall. No lights come on when it does that.
I was sitting at a red light and my vehicle began to move forward with my foot on the brake. The vehicle began to increase in rpm's like i was pushing on the accelerator but i was not!! Later that day i went to the gm dealer to see what they could find and didn't find anything cause the computer had reset since i had shut the car off. Two days later the car did the exact same thing so i immediately drove to the car dealer. Told them how dangerous that was and i couldn't believe the car was acting like i was giving it more gas when i wasn't!! They hooked it up to the computer and found the problem this time. It had to do with a crack in my pollution canister. With that crack my computer thought my car needed more gas and would give it more gas. I can't believe they let a computer program give your car more gas and you have no control of it and without warning. The first time it did it i was not prepared for it and when the computer gave my car more gas it began to move into the intersection and almost caused a horrible accident. Since the dealer replaced the pollution canister i have not had any problems. I have warned everyone i know about what happened and to be prepared for it. It just amazes me that more people haven't been seriously hurt by this! Hopefully that crack that caused my problems doesn't happen to anyone else!!
- Clyde, OH, USA
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I have a 2014 Chevrolet Cruze, and when I turn the ignition off it sounds like it's trying to start on it's own. It also has a faulty catalytic converter.
Several times the steering wheel mechanism locked up while driving and I was unable to steer it momentarily. During that time several warning lamp indicators intermittently illuminated, and the radio shorted, and the instrument panel flashed or blacked out. Also, there is a coolant leak. I have the vehicle at the dealership repair center and they haven-€™t reproduced the above problems, but did find a problem with a engine coolant leak from the water pump and a radiator hose in which they are repairing.
Vehicle will lose power and shut off in middle of driving while trying to accelerate or slowing down, this occurs on highway, at stoplights, drive through, and city streets while stationary and in motion. Chevrolet dealership can not figure out the problem. This is extremely dangerous. ECM has been replaced but still experience electrical problems as well. This is basically a death trap vehicle. It has happened numerous times with no solution.
Having a coolant leak and can't find the source..had dye put in by mechanic told to drive for a couple of days..went back and everything is dry no leak detected but loosing coolant..fan comes on ac shut off due to engine overheating..sitting and or driving
Faulty parts have caused issues with the engine, such as constant engine ticking, and squeaking when slowing down and below 1300rpm. Both of these problems I believe are causing the engine to have power loss and ultimately make this vehicle less powerful and become undependable. Beyond those problems I consistently get warnings about the traction control and stabilitrak. I am doing what I can to fix this thing but believe it should not have left the factory.
Every summer the same problems occur. When driving upwards on an incline street the car loses all power. Pumping the gas gets it restarted very slowly. Also, in hot weather, when attempting to merge onto a highway the car will not accelerate properly for a few seconds. The dealer's tech claims it is a design problem and there is nothing the dealer can do to fix the problem.
I am have issues with the P0420 error code. I took the car to a mechanic who advised that the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. Not believing what he said due to the car being fairly new. I went to auto zone to have the codes read and of course the code displays with the P0420 code. I see that this was a recall on certain models but did not include my 2014 per VIN check.
This vehicle was bought brand new and is only 6 years old. Why am I having to replace the catalytic converter on this vehicle?!! I've been having problems with the car jerking and riding rough for over a year because the dealership (superior Chevrolet in Decatur, ga) swears there's nothing wrong with the car. Now all of a sudden that I no longer have a warranty, I need to replace the catalytic converter.
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that at start up, the check engine warning light illuminated. A message displayed which stated that the air condition was off due to high temperature. While driving at 15 mph, the check engine warning light illuminated and the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle went into limp mode. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to determine the cause of the failure. The vehicle was then taken to klik lewis located at (720 E main St, palmyra, pa 17078, 717-838-1353) to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the fuel tank was defective. The contact was also informed that the fuel tank started to melt which caused the hoses to be fused to the tank and caused the sensor to fail. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not aware of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 83,557.
I had my stabilitrak and traction control lights and my check engine light come on my vehicle while driving down a normal city road in sunlight on a clear warm day and my vehicle started idling very roughly while driving and I was right by autozone so they ran codes and found out it said knock sensor and misfire. Well I drove it home 5 mins down the street and park it. Well I take it to my mechanic the following morning and he does a diagnostic and piston check and turns out my spark plug burned so bad it was burned away where the L hook is. And found out that it broke in my combustion chamber somewhere. Now I have to get this all fixed and its costing a few thousand dollars.
We have put over 3,000 dollars in this car and only had it a year and half. Every time we fix a problem someone else immediately goes wrong. We are currently on the 3rd turbo, replaced coilpack for a misfire, replaced plugs, pvc valve and cover, different hoes to the engine, sensors. It has 110,000 miles on it. Its my daily drive to work and its been broke down half the time ive owned it.
Cat was sputtering and stalling after I had the oil changed and air filters checked. I got it diagnosed and the codes given were P1101 P0299 P0171 P0106 I was coming to a stop at the light when I noticed some squealing or whirring under the hood. I opened the hood and the engine is like... moving
"takata recall" catalytic converter not working properly. Check engine light goes on and off numerous times. When the light first came on, the vehicle was in motion heading South bound on hwy 167.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Clearlake, CA, USA