This was the third time replacing the window regulators and it has occurred on both doors! An analysis shows that the figure 8 wire that is pulled by the motor rusts and unbinds from itself. Evidently the regulator manufacturers are using very cheap wire. The main cost is installing the regulator which luckily I am able to do myself but is a pain having to do this time and again!
Did repair myself. Window regulator messed up and cable mis-spooled and broke. The $143 cost was for OEM parts that should have cost $40 at most. A few tracks, wire rope and plastic spool with case to bolt onto motor. The design apparently mates with a Siemens motor. The wire rope winds up from each track simultaneously onto a plastic spool that is grooved for the wire rope so it winds up neatly. Apparently the grooves do not do their job for very long and you get a jammed situation. Tried to rewind the spool and got a jam the very first time it spooled. This design is cheap, if a durable spool was used with better wire rope grooves it should last for a long time!
A repeat on the passengers side window of previous drivers side window. I do not even bother complaining to Chevy, they know they have a problem but survival is on the top of their list, perhaps their parts supplier can improve the spool?
With gas prices the way they are, I think trucks are not on the priority list!
Power window would go down but not back up. But if you waited a day or two it would work again. Now it's gone up but won't go down. And its summer. And its hot. Going to replace the regulator and motor and see how long it lasts. But first I have to hit the "Add Another Complaint" button.
Drivers auto window was hard to lower then cable must have come off track and broke, window was stuck in down position in the fall during the raining season in Oregon, I took door panel apart, I bought online replace cable unit and installed my self. I've been waiting for the right side window to do the same thing. The one I installed works much much better then the original one. Just take it show when removing the door panel make sure you find all the screws and parts to remove.
Now I am trying to figure out how to get door apart to access inside and replace cable --- shops (Alton's Tire & Auto) want $80 bucks to diagnose problem before they tell me how much it will be to repair (what a rip off!) even though I know what's wrong with it holding the cable in my hand!!!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plus here's my reply to another Autobeef user:
Got about 88k miles on mine too. Your description sounds just like what just happened to mine. Mine is a broke cable - I determined this by removing the door panel. If you want details on removing the door panel let me know - it is simple once you do it BUT do not try to "pull" panel off like in the old days - it "hooks" in --- actually pretty well designed compared to what I was used to.
power window on driver side stopped working. There is motor noise. Seems to be off track. I need to know how to fix it, remove door cover, etc. Thanks.
Unable to raise window after it was lowered. This problem happened to both driver and passenger windows. within 9 months of each other. Power window motor became inoperable.
47000 miles and the window regulator cable rusted and broke (drivers door). replaced it with aftermarket regulator which worked about 5 days. When I went to roll the window down, it went down and never came up. Doesn't even sound like the motor is working. I see this happened to more than just me. Maybe Chevy should try to fix the design.
POWER WINDOW DRIVERS SIDE FAILED AT ABOUT 45,OOO MILES,HAD REGULATOR&MOTOR REPLACED WITH AFTERMARKET PARTS. THEN AT ABOUT 48,000 MILES SAME THING ON PASSENGER SIDE,AND AGAIN HAD IT REPLACED WITH AFTERMARKET PARTS. OH AND GUESS WHAT? AT ABOUT 55,OOO MILES YOU GOT IT-DRIVERS SIDE WENT DOWN AND WOULD NOT GO UP.NOW I AM ALL BENT OUT OF SHAPE. GOT ON A MISSION WITH G.M. CUSTOMER SERVICE,AND AFTER PESTERING THEM FOR ABOUT TWO WEEKS FOR SOME HELP REPAIRING POWER WINDOW,WAS FINALLY TOLD THEY HAVE NOT HAD ENOUGH COMPLAINTS TO JUSTIFY HELPING ME TO ABSORB THE COST TO REPAIR POWER WINDOW.WENT TO LOCAL CHEV.DEALER WHERE I HAVE BOUGHT CARS&TRUCKS IN THE PAST TO SEE IF THEY WOULD HELP.WAS TOLD THERE TUFF LUCK.SO THIS IS THE THIRD REGULATOR&MOTOR THAT HAD TO BE REPLACED.THIS TIME REPAIR WAS DONE AT DEALERSHIP AT ABOUT $375.OO DO THE MATH.I HAVE GOT ABOUT $1075.00 IN POWER WINDOW REPAIRS ON A TRUCK WITH 57,000 MILES ON IT.SAD PART IS I AM A RETIRED G.M.PRODUCTION WORKER,AND I THOUGHT WE TOOK PRIDE IN OUR RESPONSIBILITY TO BUILD A QUALITY PRODUCT AND TO TAKE CARE OF OUR CUSTOMERS.I CAN UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE GET PISSED WHEN THEY HAVE MULTIPLE PROBLEMS WITH THE SAME ISSUES.WAKE UP AMERICA WE ARE LOSING CUSTOMERS TO FOREIGN AUTOMAKERS.I SEE I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH MULTIPLE POWER WINDOW PROBLEMS.THANK YOU FOR ALLOWING ME TO WHINE ABOUT MY MULTIPLE POWER WINDOW PROBLEMS.KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK AUTO BEEF.AND REMEMBER TO BUY AMERICAN///
This problem with the window regulator has hit me three times, twice on the drivers side and once on the passengers side, GM replaced the 1st one on the drivers side and when the passengers side went my truck was out of the warranty, so I replaced it my self with after market parts, so far so good, but you can bet each time I open my windows I am concerned. I think this problem should have been a recall. also I think GM should be using sissor/bar system.
Starting about 50,000 miles the driver's window regulator failed. This was in 2003. It has happened four times now (2 driver side & 2 passenger side). The dealer said it is common and a bad design. Corporate denies any knowledge of problems. Numerous other things have failed as well. Last GM product for me!
I had the truck for 1 year and the driver window went part way down and just stopped. I took it to the Chev dealer and had the motor and regulator replaced..$260. 4 months later the passenger window would not go down. Bought an aftermarket motor and regulator and replaced it myself...$150. Now the Driver window is not working again.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
This was the third time replacing the window regulators and it has occurred on both doors! An analysis shows that the figure 8 wire that is pulled by the motor rusts and unbinds from itself. Evidently the regulator manufacturers are using very cheap wire. The main cost is installing the regulator which luckily I am able to do myself but is a pain having to do this time and again!
- dhl00, Seaford, VA, US