This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The first time this incident occured I was driving in a residential neighborhood and my horn started randomly honking. Over the past few months the horn will randomly start honking and will continously honk for long periods of time. The horn will blast for miles and there is nothing that I can do to make it stop. I have been pulled over because of this and it's terrible driving at night with the horn blaring. The horn does not work regularly anymore. Then my car started shutting off while driving with no warning lights and total loss of anything that is powered (steering, brakes, etc). I have had to pull over on the freeway in unsafe areas, stuck in the middle of intersections with kids in the car also. After shutting off sometimes I am able to start it right away and it will be fine and other times it wont start and after some period of time it will finally start. I replaced the battery and got a new key fob but neither one has fixed these issues. On top of the random horn blaring and car completely shutting off while driving I now have begun having issues with my transmission. It started randomly not shifting while driving causing me to have to pull over and restart the car after about 5 mins. I have had to pull off the freeway to restart my car. The transmission issue was random at first but I haven't been able to drive my car at all because it will NOT shift after 10 MPH. It is automatic with manual option (which I never use) but it will not shift gears in auto mode or manual. The horn blaring is not only embarrassing but the loudness of it is detrimental to a persons hearing. I have read many reports of this particular car having these same issues and the fact that it completey shuts off without warning and loss of power steering, brakes is extremely dangerous especially when traveling on freeways/highways at 70MPH not only for me and my children but the other drivers around me. I have not had it diagnosed or repaired by a mechanic due to the transmission issue.
car has always ran great no problems. i go to leave house and as soon as i drive maybe 100 ft all the dash lights came on started flashing and chimming. engine also reved up which was crazy i was terrified of rear ending someone. i hit brake but it kept doing it. ive had two different shops run a scan and they say too many codes to know. And tell me to take to dealership. i bought car brand new back in 2012. i just need to know what to do now?? the speedometer went to zero and cold hot hand went to c its like the computer wasnt sending messages to the proper places.
The alternator went out and fried the battery. You could smell like something burnt then the dash lights started flashing like the traction control then the abs light then everything started flashing and the car died and was completely dead. Then when I had the dealer put a new battery in the car he said they had to unhook the alternator so it wouldn-€™t catch the car on fire. While I moved it, my son said his 300 chrysler did the same thing and their was a recall on his, but theirs not one on the 200s
I own a 2012 Chrysler 200, That I Purchased Used but in excellent condition from a reputable dealer, and had a private pre-purchase inspection by a Mechanic (showing no major issues, and I have that report). I drove my car for just around 10-14 months, performed regular maintenance, and had no issues mechanically or otherwise. On the date this Incident occurred I had travelled in the car throughout that day doing some shopping (and the vehicle ran perfectly). We got home around 8:45pm, I dropped my nana off, and got in the car to go get some dinner. While still on my road (which is dark, curvy, has drop offs and no shoulders) as I rounded a curve my car with NO WARNING, completely died. I lost engine power, power steering, lights, headlights, and my brakes became incredibly weak. I could not be seen be seen by other motorists could not use my hazards, and just by dumb luck I made it over the hill with my momentum and had to struggle( NO Pwr. Steeing) to steer across the other lane on a blind curve with no lights, I was nearly hit by another driver, and got into a vacant lot and required my brake + Emrg. Brake to get the car stopped before it hit the structure on the lot. (I know for a fact I had no warning either mechanically or warning light - because I was looking at my dash panel checking speed at the time of failure) I had to have it towed home. A mechanic diagnosed it as a TIPM failure. After researching I found that this was a widely known/occurring failure on several Chrysler branded vehicles, It is a serious safety hazard for obvious reasons - I nearly got hit myself. Chrysler even recalled the faulty TIPM's on some of their BRAND NEW models but refuses to help owners who's cars are 4-5+ years old. And I can't even spend the Ludacris amount of money for a new one because without a recall and resolution of the defect, I'm just buying another Defective TIPM for $1000+ dollars. This is not only a danger to those in defective cars but others on the road.
- Hixson, TN, USA
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Vehicle will turn off while driving, causing steering wheel to lock up. This has happened 3 times. Engine light has come on this time and has codes U0100, U0121 and U11. I-€™ve had the vehicle checked at NTB, but was told these must be addressed by Chrysler. My safety has been affected while driving on the interstate and the vehicle shut down.
While driving along a 40mph street, the convertible top started to pop open, causing me to have to grab it and pull it down, almost causing me to hit the curb, and having to hold it down until I got home. The instrument panel reading said "CONVERTIBLE TOP MALFUNCTION" and "TOP NOT SECURED". After calling a repair facility, I was advised how to get the top to re-latch closed, but now the top will no longer work, and i'm still not sure that although closed, that the top still isn't locked shut.
Numerous problems with vehicle refusing to start when ignition switch turned on. The dealership could not find a problem. The vehicle then ran for a period of time without additional issues. In April of 2022 the problem resurfaced. After trying for two days to start the vehicle, it started and I took it to a Chrysler dealership. The mechanic indicated the car needed a new starter. The starter was replaced on 4/20/2022. On 5/10/2022 the dealership inspected the vehicle and did an oil and filter change. No problems were found. On 5/13/2022 I was driving and the vehicle suddenly stopped in traffic and would not restart. Thankfully, a crash was avoided when the vehicle suddenly stopped in heavy traffic. The automatic windows and door locks still worked even though ignition would not engage. The vehicle had to be pushed out of traffic and was towed to a dealership. The mechanic listed the following: ASD Main sense circuit; Generator Field Control /circuit; Engine oil pressure sensor circuit low; Starter Control 2 Circuit Open-pulled vehicle in found starter was not engaging-tested both power feed lines. The repair quote was in the thousands of dollars. I have gotten rid of the car and I am purchasing another make of vehicle.
I-€™ve have been reporting this issue with the TIPM since April 15, 2022 when it stalled and cut off on me in traffic and the horn just started blaring. I have reported this to Mopar/Chrysler, nhtsa and the dealership in which I-€™ve purchased the vehicle. I was told to have the vehicle towed at my own expense and to pay for repairs. But when you-€™ve paid out so much already to have a diagnostics performed through 2 different independent shops in which they absolutely refuse to touch or Make repairs to the vehicle when these vehicles have the obvious problems. Not even Pep Boys will touch the vehicles. It-€™s a disgrace that no one seems to take this issue serious. Upon doing more research, I-€™ve found the others have complained about the issues. This is dangerous and could cause the vehicle to catch fire. And to think there has been no research or resolution for the issue is even more sickening. These vehicle should be recalled permanently and no dealership should be allowed to sale them. If an issue this dangerous will be overlooked. If you need further evidence. Look into the database here.
Car shuts off while driving; has to turn the car off. Got car serviced, was told had large hole in engine coolant. Motors will go out suddenly on passenger and driver windows.
The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was diagnosed by an independent mechanic who determined that the TIPM module had failed. The dealer was made aware of the failure and the contact was advised to tow the vehicle to their location for a diagnostic test. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and advised the contact to take the vehicle to the dealer for the diagnostic test. The vehicle was not yet diagnosed nor repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 87,000.
There is an electrical problem on my car. First the lights would turn on and off, then the alarm would go off, then the radio stopped turing on, the ac stopped working and now it won't turn on.
Vehicle randomly stalls, reverse and drive. It will stall in traffic, while driving and backing out of the driveway. I had a P0335 code after it stalled about 10 time. I have changed the crankcase sensor 3 times but does not correct the issue. Also have electrical issue with windows not working and only half the defrost working.
The car shut off without warning leaving me stranded 10 miles from home. I now believe it happened ones before, the car was towed and on a whim the driver turned the key and the car started.
My passenger side window does not come back up after being let down, using the driver window button or the passenger button. I have replaced the motor, the switch and regulator but same issue. I have research and looked online where this seems to be a common problem even after the individuals replaced all parts from 2004- up until now.
2012 Chrysler 200 engine dies without warning when driving. Restarts after 45 to 60 min. Car dies anytime, in heavy traffic on 2 occasions - no power steering, very hard brakeing and nearly causing accident. Died in freeway traffic
The car consistently stalls out at least 4-6 times a trip in the middle of driving, if not more. It also honks on its own during that time. It was brought to the dealership and a shop and they couldn't find anything wrong
This is a problem that started with the prior owner of the vehicle but the connecting rods in the engine are failing the hazard switch does not work and the traction control does not work I noticed atleast the connecting rod was a safety recall and VIN specific it was noticed when the cam shaft started making noise due to debris
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Vacaville, CA, USA