CarComplaints.com Notes: The 2007 Dodge Caliber has all kinds of suspension problems at relatively low mileage: typically 40-50,000 miles.
The most commonly reported problems are with ball joints & control arms going bad. Tie rods & leaking struts are also reported failing in the same mileage range.
Unfortunately all the suspension problems means some owners only find out after they notice their tires are ruined.
We've given the 2007 Caliber our worst rating because these problems happen at such low mileage, & it involves a wide range of apparently defective parts. With most other cars, major suspension work is pretty rare under 50,000 miles.
10.0
really awful
Crashes / Fires:
2 / 1
Injuries / Deaths:
3 / 0
Average Mileage:
76,717 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I BOUGHT THIS CAR, AND I FOUND OUT THAT MY CAR RECALLED SEVERAL ITEMS. I JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THEY WERE FIX. HOW DO I FOUND OUT IF THEY WERE FIX OR NOT. MY NUMBER IS [XXX]. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
Car stopped while driving several times and then would T start at all. Replaced fuse and it ran for a little bit and then wouldn't accelerate over 40. After getting back home engine wouldn't start at all or it would take almost 30 minutes to try and it would sometimes fire up. Now it will not start at all. Starter is new and the only other thing we can think is maybe electrical. That and the lack of acceleration are major problems and it needs to be addressed!
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once I went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said I needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while I was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ECM and they had to order the part. I got my car back on Thursday June 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on June 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because I'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and Dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
Thought I had a loose belt called dealership where I bought car told to Dodge dealership I did that $90 service fee said I needed new alternator $1,086, I could not afford that took it to America's they said for $615 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077. I could only get a loan for $1,000 so the tie rods I cannot get. After the Dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did. I bought the car I had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now I only $75,000 miles on car. My car always ran smooth on highways and city streets. There was just a noise on my car. The car ran great. People could hear the noise also as I am deaf so I could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on. I had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.
- Haltom City, TX, USA
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Had a loud grinding sound coming from rear of car thought it was the breaks, put the car on jack took tire off off and noticed that subframe of the car was completely rotted out. Now when I rotated the tires before winter I noticed typical surface rust now there is a big hole and completely unsafe. I went on line to look it up and noticed a lot of people commenting on an extended warranty. I called Dodge and was told to call corporate, corporate explained that as of August 2016 my extended warranty was expired. They told me to bring the car into Dodge call them back and they would see if they could get an exception. Since 3/27/17 I've been waiting for a call back, I called 3/30/17 to find that they denied my claim when I asked for a manager they stated it would be another day before anyone would call me. Now I call them back and I keep being put on hold being told they cannot transfer me. This is a good car with a lot of life left and now Dodge won't do anything for me when I've been a loyal customer. This is obviously a safety issue they know about and should grant some kind of good will assistance. Dealer ship wants over $1200 to do it. This is crazy. Any help I could get would be appreciated. I much like everyone else making the complaints cannot afford to do the work myself and can't afford to just go buy a new car.
I have come across two vehicles now that were both known for K-frame/sub-frames rusting out and both have recalls for this issue but this specific VIN on both of these dont qualify for this issue. Both of these vehicles have no rust anywhere on the under body but yet the K-frame on them are completely rusted out and both have broke at the A-arms. How is it that the consumers are being aloud to only fix this issue on "some" vins and not others when its the same exact issue"?" why is it that they are aloud to continue to pt the same crap part on the vehicle instead of fixing the problem that is causing it to rust out. I will put both VIN's below for you to examine. 2007 Dodge Caliber - 117K miles 2008 Jeep patriot - 54K miles
Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by instability...car unsafe to drive. Car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...
Hello, I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber. I was driving back from upstate NY to ct and the overheating transmission came on. Then it started winning, it lost speed even though I pressed the pedal to the floor. The rpms went sky high to almost 6, but I was moving slow. Sometimes my back widows don't go up or down. Passenger head light don't work.. I just want to know what's happening. Then I drive it to my mechanic and they check it next day and they say its fine.
Bought car used in 2014. Within a week the maniverter needed replaced. Dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. Cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. Transmission stops working when it is hot out, trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. Car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. Control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from Dodge dealer and are bad for a second time. We will never buy another Dodge vehicle.
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes P2006, P1607, P0722, P0717. I changed all codes except P1607 because they were cheaper. The PCM runs $299 or more and I cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if I need to re program the PCM" where can I get this done" the nearest Dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and I am scared to drive this thing. I swear, I wish I never would have bought it, worst car ever. Please help me get this running right again, I am still paying for it. It has been parked since March 2016.
Engine cradle completely rusted. Car is not driveable. Took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. Was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.
Rcvd a letter in 2013 regarding front and rear cross members needing an inspection & possible repairs. I did not get this inspected as recommended. I went today to have car pre-inspected for pa inspection & was told what mechanic called front sub-frame was rusted through & extremely weak and the rear wasn't far from being rusted through. Also warned if I was in an accident it would fold because of being weak & makes it dangerous to drive. Called local Dodge dealer & Dodge's corporate customer service & I couldn't get in to have Dodge inspect for 10 days. Hopefully the "cross members" & what my mechanic calls "sub-frame" is all the same and is covered under 10 yr extended warranty. Https://customerconnect.custhelp.com/app/mobile/Fiat/B2C_detail/A_id/24689
Husband was driving our 2007 Dodge Caliber making a U-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second U-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.
Original dunlop tires size 20570R15. Tires cupped after they were rotated and properly maintained. Causing loud noise and vibrating. Manufacturer and authorized dealers would not replace. Claim it was due to front end alignment issue. However, that isn't required in the maintenance book. The mechanic is suppose to recommend. Had front end aligned during regular preventative maintenance the day the mechanic said to have it done. He said at that time tires were fine. Yet no one would take responsibility for tire damage. Noise and shaking would start after 20 mph and get worse as speed increased.
The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and I keep losing power to my car. It starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. I have stalled several times. This is very concerning as I have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. I am a single parent and help is not always close.
Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars. This is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.
While driving the car it would make creaking noises underneath the engine and front suspension area. The vehicle was taken to the owner's regular repair shop for state inspection and report the creaking noise in the engine, front end area. The technician diagnosed the cause of the creaking noise as a rusted out engine carrier and also a worn out rack and pinion assembly. I decided to report this serious problem because other individuals who have this automobile may also experience the same condition. The engine cradle and rack and pinion assembly are vital components for safe handling and structural integrity of the vehicle. Being that this is an expensive major repair, the manufacturer needs to know of the problem and should design and improve these components to resist rust and wear and last for the life of the vehicle. The engine carrier rust problem and rack and pinion assembly should also be investigated to determine the possibility of a recall.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Enumclaw, WA, USA