Huge win for car owners! All TSBs to be made public. The Center for Auto Safety just made the NHTSA (US Government) make public the full text of all TSBs from now on. They are the same organization that has petitioned the NHTSA & filed lawsuits to protect car owners over exploding gas tanks & other major safety issues. Whenever you drive in your car, you are safer thanks in part to a lot of work over the years by this small but very effective consumer advocacy group.

Please take a moment & say thank you by donating $5 or whatever you can to the Center for Auto Safety.

CarComplaints.com Notes: The Dodge Intrepid, Stratus & other Chrysler sedans are infamous for oil sludge problems with the 2.7L V6 engine. If someone offers to sell you a 2.7L V6 model, it's only worth the price of the scrap metal it's going to shortly turn into.

NOTE: Only the 2.7L V6 has the oil sludge problem. Our "Avoid like the Plague" designation is ONLY for models with the 2.7L V6 engine. All other available engines are very reliable with no major problems.

Even with regular maintenance, the oil sludge defect eventually destroys the 2.7L engine typically around 80,000-100,000 miles. The only true fix we know about is to put in the larger 3.2L engine, which has a great reputation.

This issue was never deemed a safety defect by the Feds, so there was no recall. In the end, Chrysler got away with FOUR YEARS worth of defective 2.7L V6 engines in their sedans.

6.8

fairly significant
Typical Repair Cost:
$1,966.00
Average Mileage:
86,479 miles
Total Complaints:
24 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (15 reports)
  2. have oil sending unit replaced use 5w-30 only!!!!!!! (2 reports)
  3. changed oil 4 times in 2000 miles with synt. oil (1 reports)
  4. got rid of the car (1 reports)
  5. junk yard (1 reports)
  6. remove vent from sending unit connector (1 reports)
2001 Dodge Intrepid engine problems

engine problem

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2001 Dodge Intrepid Owner Comments (Page 1 of 2)

problem #24

Feb 092011

Intrepid ES 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 79,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

click to see larger images

oil light comes on when idling

I was having a problem with our 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7. I replaced the oil pressure sensor, but still had the flickering light when hot and at idle. I read on other forums that as long as your actual oil pressure is within range , there could be a problem with the oil sensor connector. They said to remove the small plastic "vent dart" from the back of the electrical connector attached to the oil pressure sensor. Well, I tried it and sure enough the light is not coming on or flickering anymore.

- , parma, OH, USA

problem #23

Feb 122010

Intrepid 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 99,972 miles

A month ago when I bought the car I was going reverse and my sister and I heard a bang noise. We were looking to see if we had hit something. But in time I found out through this web page that the noise we heard was the same noise other have stated.

- , El Paso, TX, USA

problem #22

Sep 012009

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 80,000 miles

I purchased a 2001 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L in April 2009. The mileage was around 78,000. At 80,000 the oil light started to come on when it was idling. I had an oil change. I think they used 10W-30. I am now at 83,000 and 1 week ago the oil light began to flicker and came back when idling. I know that it needs an oil change. But this [the oil light flickering etc.] had never happened to me with any other car. I came on-line to see if I could find additional information. I saw a comment from an owner in Havertown, PA that was posted on 1/1/07. It stated that a service alert was issued on this car which stated the connector on the oil switch wiring was defective. Once the connector was changed the problem went away. Does this sound reasonable?

- , Berlin, NJ, USA

problem #21

Mar 012009

Intrepid LS 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 90,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

I have been hit by this problem as well. My oil pressure light flickers at idle. According to the owner's manual, it says immediately shut down the engine. I have been driving it like this for a couple weeks, simply out of necessity. If I'm idle for more than 3 minutes, the light comes on. If I rev the engine just a little it goes away, and then comes back on after about 30 seconds.

The first thing I will do is change the engine oil with synthetic. Next I'll look into the oil pump as that has been mentioned in some of these issues. Dodge really should step up and take credit for this problem. I think more of us would feel more comfortable with american cars if they weren't famous for this kind of stuff.

- , Riverdale, UT, USA

problem #20

Oct 272008

Intrepid ES 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 85,000 miles

I purchased a 2001 Dodge Intrepid in October 2008,in a few weeks the oil light would flicker when I would stop at red lights.I took it to my mechanic he changed the oil and put some lucas treatment in the engine.The same day it came back on when i would stop and idle.My mechanic checked the oil pressure and i'ts right where it should be. Sometimes it comes on once in a while. Im going to get it changed today 5/1/09 I guess I'll just drive it liked it is.

- , Ccicero, IL, USA

problem #19

Dec 012008

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 114,000 miles

Bought the car in 2002...it was a dream. Ran great, NEVER had any trouble with it, LOVED the car. We were religious about taking it in for oil changes every 3000 miles on it, and only had to have normal wear and tear repairs on it (had to replace the brake pads in Feb 2007). Got the car paid off in Nov 2007. Around October, started noticing that the check oil light would come on when I was idling, and sometimes would stay on. Per the car's manual, I took it into the shop; they changed the oil pan and sensors, which cost a pretty penny. In December, light started coming on again. Took it to a different shop, the service guy listened to my story and said, can you afford to buy a new car? Then DO IT NOW!!! Sure enough....the day after we sold the car, the dealership that took it off our hands and gave us $2500 for it, called and said that it had died. SUCKERS!!!!

- , Wichita, KS, USA

problem #18

Sep 052008

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 105,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Well like everyone else im anticipating my engine shutting down soon, i have the oil light coming on frequently when idling (when brake is pressed), oddly the heater works intermittently. The car overheats when idling on occasion. Needless to say i don't drive it much due to the unreliability of the vehicle which is a shame cause overall ive loved the car since the day i bought it. UNTIL NOW!! Can anyone shed any light on what to do possibly before the engine goes? is there any hope? Im on unemployment and cant afford another car anytime soon.

- , Redding, CA, USA

problem #17

Aug 162006

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 45,000 miles

I just changed my oil 4 times in 2000 miles which cleaned out the sludge without clogging the strainer using 5w-30 synth.oil. never had a problem again.

- , Spring Hill, FL, USA

problem #16

Jun 232008

Intrepid 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 120,000 miles

While idling the oil light would come on and go off when driving

- , Adrian, MI, USA

problem #15

Jul 152008

Intrepid ES 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 96,000 miles

Ok, My wifes car just experienced the oil breakdown/ oil lamp on at idle symptoms. I got a good answer from a Dodge mechanic on the oil sludge problem these engines face. Here it goes. These engines(2.7L) in a Dodge Intrepid suffer from extreme heat under the hood. This is due to the very low profile hood, and inadequate fresh air opening on, and under the grill. These engines have the 2 upper catalytic converters mounted up right next to the engine block, and head. This is the source of the heat, and the lack of proper airflow into the engine compartment doesn't sufficiently get rid of it. This excessive heat causes the engine oil to breakdown, resulting in sludge. The sludge plugs up the oil passages, and starves the engine from oil in the worst case scenarios. This may be the oil by pass in the pump sticking, or the cam tensioner failing. In my case the oil light would flicker at idle. What I have done, and will do is as follows:I bought some SeaFoam at the auto parts store and added it to my engine oil. Then drove around for a bit, maybe 30-50 miles.I then changed the oil and filter. Premium filter and Castrol GTX oil. I was told synthetic oil is better for high heat situations, but I have had good luck with GTX ( resistes sludge). My oil lamp went out, but I knew it would be back. I then purchased exhaust header wrap. It is a Woven Fiberglass like tape that insulates the exhaust. I purchased it at a local auto parts store in the performance section, along with the stainless steel bands to secure it. I then wrapped both of my upper Catalytic converters with the wrap, secured the wrap with the bands, and sprayed it with the exhaust wrap silicone spray that I also bought intended just for this purpose. This should greatly reduce the under hood temperature. Things I might also do; Installation of hood vents, too help move air over the engine. Installation of an axillary engine oil cooler, too stop thermal breakdown of the oil. Change the oil pump, Timing chain, Timing gears, timing chain tensioner, since these parts have been improved/ updated from the factory. So far the Car has been fine with what I have done. Wrapping those upper Catalytic converters I believe will do wonders. Must be specific Exhaust header wrap made for this purpose, and properly installed. This was my solution to the problem, and it is still early to know for sure if it will cure it completly. Make youre assumptions

- , Kenosha, WI, USA

problem #14

May 282006

(reported on)

Intrepid ES

  • 140,625 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

We should get a free motor installed because of Dodge mishaps and non efficiency in their design of the motor. This just shows that they want people to buy more cars to make more money. People can't always afford to buy new cars everytime their car dies. In the owners manual it states that when the light flashes on and off, it is a noise sensor and in our case the oil pump failed resulting in our motor seizing.

- , Comber, Ontario, Canada

problem #13

Dec 142007

Intrepid SE 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 100,000 miles

To start with if your oil light is just starting to come on at idle get it fixed now ! Stop driving it before you blow the engine. If your a half ass mechanic take it to the dealer to fix. It is a pain in the ASS to work on. I know, Been there Done That.

But if your gutsy enough to try it then here goes.

NOTE: DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER PERIOD WHILE DOING THIS !! Youv'e been warned!!!

Take the air cleaner cover lid loose and remove all of the air ducts back to the intake.

Take the plenum off. There a number of electrical and vacuum lines on it, take them loose. Also there is a 10 mm bolt in the back and under the intake port. Just take it loose. You don't have to remove it. Also take the (2) 8 mm bolts out to the intake heat pipe on the left side just below the intake port. Loosen the (8) 10 mm bolts that hold the plenum on to the intake module. You should be able to lift the plenum off. Put some clean rags in the intake ports. That way you won't drop something into the engine.

Remove the connector wires to the coils and remove the (2) 8mm bolts to get the coils off the valve cover.

Take off the Left(passenger side) valve cover. You'll need a deep well 10 mm socket for these bolts. They won't fall out of the cover, at least mine didn't. Take note of how much sludge/varnish is on the cams and inside the valve cover. If it has a lot clean up as much as you can. Then after you get it back together put something like SeaFoam in with the oil to loosen it. Then change oil soon. Maybe after 100 to 200 miles. Depending on how much sludge/varnish is in the engine. My wasn't to bad. But I'm still going to put SeaFoam in it and change oil in 100 to 200 miles. Get it at the parts store when you get the new tesnioner.

Remove the cap right above the Air Conditioner Compressor. It's on the side of the head. It's held on with two 10 mm bolts. Don't loose the O-ring on the cap.

With a long punch or screw driver push on the chain guide and the tensioner will fall out into your hand. Check to make sure yours has the spring clip and O-Ring on it. If it doesn't have both, like mine didn't then the O-Ring has disintegrated and the clip is broken. My clip fell off in my hand. This O-ring being gone will cause the oil light to come on at idle and make one hell of a racket when the engine runs. It causes the tensioner to oscillate in the boss in the head. And if you continue to drive it sooner or later it will jump teeth on the cam or crank gear taking out the valves and etc...

Go get a new tensioner. There only about $90.00. Cheap if you consider the cost of an engine.

This is the tricky part. The tensioner will push in until it bottoms out. Then it will pop out and extend again to full length. The trick is this. Push it together to a length that you can get it back into the head without having to push hard on the cap you took off earlier. After you have the tensioner and cap back in place, reach back inside the valve cover and push the cam chain guide towards the tensioner. The tensioner will compress to the bottom and then it will release and pop back to full length again. MAKE DAMN sure that it extends out and is pushing against the cam chain guide. DO NOT push it again after that. If you do, push it all the way to the bottom again and let it extend back out again making sure it pushes against the chain guide.

Put the valve cover back on. And tighten the bolts. Just snug them you don't need to tighten them down that hard. If you really want to get technical you can torque them with a torque wrench. 10 foot pounds should be plenty.

Put the coils back on and the electrical connectors for them.

Put the plenum back on.

Check to make sure you have all the vacuum hoses and electrical connections connected back up to the plenum.

*Start the engine. It should be fine from this point.

Hopefully I haven't forgotten a step or something. And as usual your mileage may vary.

Just as a side note. I did take the oil pan off and measured the rod and main journals on the crankshaft. Believe it or not the crank was within factory specs. I went ahead and put in new rod and main bearings anyway. I also changed the oil pump. Since it was apart at the time. FYI, oil pressure is suppose to be 25 to 105 lbs @ 3000 rpm according to Chilton Repair manual. I got the car back together last night. It runs much better now. So after spending 800 bucks I think you may get by just for 90 bucks and only have to replace the cam chain tensioner.

I hope someone finds this info useful. The tensioner is a weak link for sure. But I think the engine itself is a good engine.

Take Care and be safe.

- , Latimer, IA, USA

problem #12

Nov 142007

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 109,000 miles

CAR PARKED FOR 2 MONTH, TOP ENGINE NOISE AND OIL LIGHT ON. FLUSHED THE ENGINE, CLEAN THE OIL PICKUP SCREEN, USED 10x30. WAS OK FOR ABOUT 50 MILES, THEN LIGHT COMES BACK BUT NO NOISE, DO NOT TAKE A CHANCE,SOLD IT--SHAME ON DIAMLER DODGE FOR BUILDING SUCH A PIECE OF JUNK

- , Boca Raton, FL, USA

problem #11

Nov 172007

Intrepid SE 2.7L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 110,000 miles

I ALSO HAVE A 2001 AND I JUST PUT A NEW TIMING CHAIN IN AND ALDO A NEW OIL PUMP. I THOUGHT THAT IT WAS MY OIL ALSO BECAUSE I HAD JUST GOTTEN IT CHANGED A WEEK AGO AND YESTERDAY AGAIN WITH THE SYNTHETIC OIL. WHEN AT A LIGHT IT FLICKERS BUT IF I OUT IT IN PARK THE LIGHT GOES OFF AND ONLY WHEN WARM. JUST STARTED YESTERDAY. ANYONE WHO HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM AFTER ALL THE THING I REPLACED AND IF SO HOW CAN I FIX WITHOUT SPENDING ANOTHER TON OF MONEY.

- , Sheffield Lake, OH, USA

problem #10

Mar 232007

(reported on)

Intrepid SE 2.7

  • Automatic transmission
  • 70,000 miles

Pulling out of the supermarket last week, in reverse, my car died. No engine, no brakes, no anything. If a child had been behind me, I would have ran he/she over. NO ANYTHING. I could run my gear shift from park to low without putting on my brake. I turned my car off, waited five seconds, turned it back on, and it was as if nothing had ever been wrong with my vehicle. I promptly returned home, visited this website via google, (problems with 2001 intrepids) and sold my car within 72 hours. Dodge corporate office had no info, Portland metro dodge dealers had no info, but I do. Do not buy a Dodge or Chrysler product. They don't care that their products on the road are worthless and expensive to run and maintain. Buy anything but Dodge. Dodge DOES NOT CARE. Not about you, your family or the vehicles they produce. End of story.

- , Portland, OR, USA

problem #9

Sep 142006

(reported on)

Intrepid SE

  • 122,000 miles

Has anyone figured what the problem is regarding the oil light coming on when idling? I am replacing the oil pump tonight, and wanted to know if that was the fix.

- , Mesa, AZ, USA

problem #8

Jan 302007

(reported on)

Intrepid LS 3.2L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 90,150 miles

this wasn't the only problem that happened at this time. there was also the headlight switch shorting out, the wiper switch shorting the heater core leaking and the oil pan gasket leaking. the dealer is telling me that this is a $2100 repair and that the only thing covered by the "extended warranty" which was $1700, is the oil pan gasket. Amazing that all of these things go wrong at one time.

- , Elk Grove, CA, USA

problem #7

Dec 092006

(reported on)

Intrepid SE 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 72,000 miles

At about 70,000 the oil light started to come on when stopped at lights. I took it into the dealer and they said it was a bad oil sensor. That got replaced, but a week or two later it started again. So I took it to a mechanic I know and he said the sensor was fine, but metal shavings are causing a slight blockage. I took it back to the dealer with the report from the mechanic and they replaced the engine. This was about a week before Christmas two years ago.

- , Virginia Beach, VA, USA

problem #6

Dec 272006

(reported on)

Intrepid SE 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 77,000 miles

Our car has not yet failed, but is starting to show the same signs as being described by everyone else. Oil light coming on during low idle situations. I did find this web site: http://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/case/2_7_litre

Hope that this may help.

- , Buchanan, MI, USA

problem #5

Jan 012007

(reported on)

Intrepid ES 2.7 V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 52,795 miles

My oil light kept coming on when the engine was hot and the idle was low. the dealer showed me a service aleert which stated the connector on the oil switch wiring was defective. The connector was changed and the problem went away.

- , Havertown, PA, USA

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