Code P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, P0356. Vehicle shut down on the interstate on the way home for work, 2½ hours from home. And will not restart. Pcm most likely the problem.

- Emporia, KS, USA

Dash lights go out at a fill tank of gas and when the vehicle is warmed up and some times. Stay off for a long time vehicle stay running and goes down the road.

- Arcadia, FL, USA

My 2006 Ford Escape hybrid is stalling on the highway creating an unsafe condition. This seems to be due to a fault in the external hybrid inverter cooling pump. This has occurred 5+ times, usually during 70 degree (F) + temps. I've contacted the local dealership & Ford Motor Corp ran the VIN, with no recall. Please investigate.

- Fitchburg, MA, USA

Vehicle stalls while running and shakes while stopped/idles.

- Hawthorne, CA, USA

The problem that we are having has to do with the car just shutting off and losing power, mainly on the interstate. We started having the problem back in June of 17 when my wife broke down in fayetteville nc on her way to South Carolina and had it towed to the nearest aaa service center. They couldn't find anything wrong but said she need a new battery. Fast forward to May 6 2018, not quite 11 months since the first time this has happened. Same thing, the ABS warning light comes on, dash cluster shuts down, no radio or A/C, then the vehicle starts losing power and slowing down until there is no power at all. Everything we have read points to a problem the alternator. Every post we have read, around 40, says the same thing. Ford needs to recall all Ford Escapes to fix this problem. Someone is going to be killed because of their vehicles losing power and getting hit from behind my a tractor trailer. Please investigate this issue before something like that happens. Or Ford can replace the vehicle with a new one. Some posts don't even have that warning like we did, they said it just shut down for no reason. I believe Ford knows there is an issue with mist of no all Ford Escapes with this issue, but believe they are covering up the problem. Again, please investigate and ask the public who own Escapes for any issues like we have had and from people that have posted the same issues. Thank you your help with this issue. No one should have to die or be injured from a problem that Ford can fix. They need to issue a major recall for this problem and with your help we can get this fixed. We have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT which has been a great vehicle for the past 11 years. It's only been this past 11 months that these problems have arisen. Any thanks for any input to get Ford to right this wrong.

- Norfolk, VA, USA

1) accelerator pedal sticks in an upward position cannot push down to accelerate as if it is frozen. After about a half hour pushing with my foot it will releases. When stopped the pedal stick again but will release but vehicle goes in a jerking motion because it is trying to stick again this happens upon being parked or driving in the city or country it happens whenever I need to accelerate. It has started doing this within the past month but as of 11/10/17 it was completely stuck in the up position and not budging 2) electrical issues- when lights are on or anything inside the vehicle lightsaber are flickering and become slightly dim

- Port Huron, MI, USA

Vehicle was being driven and without warning when brakes were applied the pedal went all the way to the floor. The ABS light then came on. My child was being transported in the car and an accident almost occurred. Towed car to mechanic and discovered this has happened to a lot of people, yet when I checked there was no active recall on this item. Shop says it needs a new Ford oem ABS module assembly 3F2Z2C219ab. Updated 7/24/18

- Sacramento, CA, USA

Driving down a street in my neighborhood when the brakes failed. In previous occurrences I was told that the calipers froze up and that the brakes would make a grinding noise. Also the computer system on the vehicle would never record the proper amount of fuel in the tank or at times engage the brakes. I am not a professional but I know this vehicle did have issues. The vehicle was in motion on a city street and when I applied the brakes nothing happened. Upon impact it appeared I hit the steering wheel before the airbag deployed. I had my seat belt on. I have driven down that city road thousands of times but it appeared this time there was a issue with he vehicle that caused this accident. Injuries were airbag related.

- Phillipsburg, NJ, USA

Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work. Thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection. Just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly. Has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem. On it's way to a second shop for another opinion. Idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc.). dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually. "right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine. Message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg. Radio volume will not come down. Get louder if you touch it. This problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related. We've already spent around $2000 on it and I still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model Escape has had. Without diagnosis of a problem, I fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed. I am disappointed to be having such problems with this Ford. My husband actually recently purchased a used Acura instead of a Ford because of it. I have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved....updated 04/12/16 the consumer took the vehicle to another repair shop. She was informed the alternator needed to be replaced at a cost of $500 updated

- Burlington, NC, USA

On several occasions after getting off the highway onto an exit ramp my vehicle has died with no check engine lights, it also shuts down when making a hard turn at slower speeds. I have had issues with the accelerator sticking when it is cold outside (several times having to manually shut off engine and coast to a stop in snow). I have currently started experiencing a #3 misfire and am currently waiting for parts to come. I have already replaced all spark plugs and number 3 ignition coil. I am waiting for other 3 coils to come in. If still shooting will try replacing seals. It also was "burning" oil then started to have an actual oil leak from main seal. I do the repairs myself and apparently these are known issues. I complained to Ford about the sticky accelerator and got no reply. It also makes a tapping sound from the cam shaft which I found out is typical of Ford Escapes.

- Colorado Springs, CO, USA

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. While driving at 35 mph, the vehicle stalled and "stop safely now" displayed on the instrument panel. The vehicle was able to restart after multiple attempts. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that there was a faulty wire harness inside the high voltage battery. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 79,000.

- Springfield, IL, USA

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the stop safely now warning message displayed after driving the vehicle for approximately 30-45 minutes. The contact also stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery pack fan kit and the traction auxiliary mode actuator needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired under NHTSA campaign number: 14V526000 (hybrid propulsion system), but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,000.

- Minneapolis, MN, USA

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. While driving at approximately 10 mph, the interior lights illuminated and the horn activated independently. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 125,000. The VIN was not available.

- Beaverdam, VA, USA

This has happened 3 times now, 2 in southern California on the freeway at night. Hybrid vehicle has recall problems which makes vehicle stop running. Had it fixed, paid out of my own pocket in southern California and thought problem was fixed. Something to do with battery. Then on Friday, Dec. 12, it happened again as I was driving home from college, the vehicle stopped suddenly. I couldn't pull over, it won't restart even after many attempts. I waited 5 to 25 minutes, vehicle would not start. Finally had to call a tow truck to closest Ford dealer. I thought dealer could fix problem after having it all day but when I left and headed on highway, my hybrid vehicle stalled again on the highway. I have ptsd from this car, I never want to get in it. I don't trust it and after 3 different Ford dealers, all of my own money to pay, car still doesn't work properly. I paid a premium to purchase this vehicle and it is worthless. Now I am receiving more recall notices about the airbags. I am afraid to drive my vehicle because if it stalls again I might be in a horrific accident as it stops suddenly with no warning whatsoever.

- Ouray, CO, USA

Pulling into a parking lot with my 2 year old granddaughter and daughter when my car stalled. Thinking quick, I put the car into neutral so I could steer and restart.my car has been in the garage 4 times and a $1000 of work put into it to try and fix the problem, to this day it still stalls!!!!!! no one knows what's wrong with it!!!!!

- Gouldsboro, PA, USA

After starting the vehicle it has to be warmer up for about 30 minutes or more, in order for the gas pedal to press down so the vehicle will move. The gas pedal will not move at all. It has to be warmed up in the summer months and well as the winter months in order for the vehicle to move. The gas pedal is so hard to press that it like trying to press your foot through a brick wall. It does this even when at a stand still when trying to accelerator for any speed. It just will not move. This is dangerous for me and my family. Please help !!!

- West Memphis, AR, USA

The first incident occurred while I was driving 65 mph on the expressway. I went to change lanes and hit the accelerator and the car would not accelerate and was shuddering. I had pull off the expressway and turn the car off. I tried restarting and it just shuddered again. I waited five minutes and tried again and finally it started and was able to shift. Two days ago I was getting off the expressway and making a left turn when the car died and I lost steering power. I was able to fortunately get to the side of the road and put it into park. I tried restarting the car and it would not start. I waited 3 mins and was able to finally get it going. Both times there was no check engine light. I had the Escape read by a code reader device multiple times and there are no error codes displayed from the computer. This is a very serious and potentially life threatening issue, and would like Ford to act upon it for its customers immediately. I am filing this because I have read that the issue is with a defective throttle body, and there is already an investigation into Ford on this issue (PE13-003). I would like my vehicle to be added to this investigation for my families safety and all others experiencing the problem.

- Midlothian, IL, USA

Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, A/C and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.

- Ruskin, FL, USA

On Feb 14th, 2013, on my way to work, my car radio went complete dead...then as I was approaching an intersection, my car 'surged' like it was going "on & off". I prayed to get to get out of harms way enough to pull my car over, as soon as I did, all the lights started flashing and there was a constant 'clicking sound'. I called a town truck and had my car towed to my car repair place. Turns out I needed an new alternator. After spending $550 + to have it fixed, the following week, on Tuesday, Feb 19th, my car died. Again, having it towed to my car repair again, it turns out that the electrical system needed replacing. I only have 67K on my car and after spending another $600 to fix, I am not a happy consumer! Ford should reimburse me for these costs. Now, my car is fixed and as much as I loved it, I am not confident driving it anymore. Unless Ford reimburses me, I will never buy another Escape again, nor will I tell everyone about how wonderful of a vehicle they are because they aren't and when you spend that much money on a car...well, when something costly happens like that, the vehicle should be replaced by Ford with no cost to the consumer. An extra $1200 out of my pocket means my family has to go without food.

- Chicago, IL, USA

Wife was driving her 2003 Ford Escape 2.3L XLS (fwd, 5-spd manual) at 65mph, practically coasting down a hill. 26 minutes after engine start she heard a loud bang and subsequent popping sounds. This was followed immediately by severe power loss from the engine. She drove it to the next best off-ramp, an additional 2 miles. When she got off the freeway she says she had to rev it up quite a bit to make an intersection to get to the gas station where the car rolled to a stop. That loud bang turned up to be the nbr 3 cylinder blowing its spark plug clean off the spark plug bore. The spark plug bore was completely threadless. The subsequent popping sounds were due to the spark plug not being on the nbr 3 cylinder as the fuel that continued to spray into the cylinder was burning off. The immediate power loss is a direct result of the engine loosing 25% of its chugga-chugga and the loss of the cht sensor signal which both then caused the PCM (powertrain control module) to go into limp mode and further reduce engine power. First thing I did was plug in my obdii scanner and check for codes. I found the following three: P0303 - cylinder 3 three misfire. P0353 - ignition coil 'C' primary/secondary circuit. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input. I then performed a koeo (key-on/engine-off) check with my obdii scanner and found the following two codes: P0119 - engine coolant temperature circuit intermittent/erratic. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input. The cht probe (cylinder head temperature) cover/boot was popped off the engine camshaft cover and the wires were broken off the cht probe electrical connector. The spark plug terminal broke off. The ignition coil pack was severely damaged (looked like an exploded cigar, cartoon style).

- Palmdale, CA, USA