This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
1st - vehicle was refueled with 87 octane and just drove one mile down and up a hill were it stopped at a red light. Light turned green and the throttle was applied and vehicle lurched and stalled. 2nd - vehicle was driving around neighborhood going 20 mph and started to sputter and hesitate 3rd - rush hour traffic were it was stopped then throttle applied and lurched and stalled 4th - using cruise control driving 75 mph down parkway, vehicle hesitated and then quickly slowed down to 20 mph and stalled 5th - driving to dealer to figure out hesitation and stall, accelerated from red light and hesitated and stalled 6th - still enroute to dealer, check engine light is now illuminated, and vehicle stalls again only 300 feet from last stall. Engine has rough idle. Police officer suggested throttle body problem because his Ford Expedition recently had the same problem and symptoms. Dealer diagnosed a bad throttle body. Vehicle did not have any check engine light illuminated until the last 6th stall. Every time vehicle experienced problem there was no throttle response and restart in neutral led to re-stalling. Vehicle had to be stopped and re-started after transmission was placed in park. Engine sputtered and was resistant to acceleration after 6th stall but slow smooth acceleration proved effective. All stalls were experienced with light to moderate acceleration.
When the Ford Escape is driving and stops at a light the engine starts to riddle. Once you hit the gas the car goes into second gear then the gas pedals stops working. Can't use the gas pedal.
Driving my vehicle home for lunch my vehicle started sputtering and my cruise control kicked off. Vehicle RPM's dropped and accelerator pedal quit working. So I pulled over. I used my dtc device to see what code is popping up and it was P2111. I put car in park, shut it off, waited 30 seconds and started it back up and drove home. Now I'm here typing this up.
Tonight I was driving home doing about 55mph when my vehicle suddenly shuddered and lost all power. Luckily I was able to coast it to where it was mostly off of the road. It did not die but continued to shake while in high idle. The power steering was not working properly and no engine lights came on. Pushing the gas pedal produced zero results. I shut it down and pondered whether to try and start it back up or just call a tow truck. Being out in the country I decided to take a chance. It started up and ran fine...for less than two miles...when it repeated the same scenario only in a much more dramatic loss of power shudder and real rough idle. Wrench light came on. I took a picture of the display panels. Didn't notice the loss of power steering that time and the engine did not die. Called the dealership... no tow truck available. Took my chances again and drove it to the dealership since it was only a few miles further then going home. Didn't have any problem during that drive but detected an engine whine sound that I had never noticed before. Vehicle has 53,393 miles on it. Engine was pulled at 8K for oil leaks. Have had numerous incidents of shifting clunking sound at take off over the life of it. Have had brakes fail in reverse. Always pump them before backing out of my garage to make sure they're working ok that day. All work, right down to tire rotations have been done only at the dealership I purchased this brand new at. Luckily I purchased an extended warranty. Guess I'll learn tomorrow what's up with it this time. Sad to have a $28,000 vehicle that I've never really trusted since its early failure. Just thankful I wasn't still on the interstate moving along in 70+ mph rush hour traffic. I will never trust this vehicle again after experiencing this.
The first incident happened on 09-10-13, a week after having the works and an alignment done on my car at a Ford dealer. While driving 40mph, my vehicle surged and lunged, then I lost ability to accelerate my vehicle had to pull over put flashers on and restart vehicle. A yellow wrench light lit up on my dash. I looked it up in the manual which indicated a throttle problem. I called the dealership which serviced my vehicle from the side of the road and they agreed that it was a throttle problem but not to worry unless it happens again; then call to make an appointment. The second incident occurred 09-14-13 while driving at 45 mph. Again I lost ability to accelerate and the wrench light lit up on my dash. I had to coast into a parking lot to restart my vehicle. I called the dealership and made an appointment to have this problem addressed. I pay for an extended service plan for my vehicle and they still told me it was not covered and that they have been having a lot of problems with vehicles experiencing the same thing. I had to pay out of my pocket to replace and fix the problem on a vehicle that is just over three years old and that is not right. The problem did not stem from my operating the vehicle.
- Westland, MI, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
Was driving to work and the little wrench symbol lit up as my car lost its acceleration. It still idled, but wouldn't move forward. I was able to drift to the side of the road. Turned off the engine and restarted it, drove another 5 feet and it happened again. I was able to pull off into a parking lot and wait for a tow truck to tow my vehicle to the Ford dealer. It was found that the throttle body was faulty but the Ford dealer said it was not covered under my warranty.
My Escape often stalls, without warning, while coming to a stop. The battery light comes on, I turn off the vehicle, then immediately restart it without problem.
It, has happen various times since August, as I drive, the engine start to either misfire or no power at all, it idle normal but as soonest I step on the accelerator start the problem, has light the check engine several times and as the mechanic scans the vehicle the only code that shows is P2111, the last time that happens, have to use a towing service because can get it moving, before I used to turn the engine off, wait several seconds and started again and the situation disappears for a few days and appears back again. Please advice.
When attempting to accelerate from a stop the throttle did nothing. It barely moved. Pulled off to side of road and restarted. After a bit it started up and drove fine for another 5 miles but then it happened again. Pulled off road, restarted and returned home as I was too afraid to continue driving it. Taking it to mechanic today to have it diagnosed. During the drive home the transmission was shifting early and otherwise acting slightly strange.
Stopped at light. Got to 20 mph then engine shut off. Coasted 50 feet shifted to neutral restarted car shook, but got me to safety. Got towed. Error code P2112.
While accelerating and switching from first gear, engine slows to rough idle, no throttle response, wrench light comes on, no check engine light though. Seems to be able to creep to the side of road but no real power or control of throttle. Idle and rev the engine after restart are ok but seems to have trouble under the heavier load of pulling second gear then rather than switching back to first the software crashes or something. Stupid way to handle a problem on Ford end.
The throttle body was defective leading to a situation where the vehicle would not accelerate. It would immediate go into a crawl mode just enough toget me to the side of the road. I was able to turn off and restart the vehicle only to have it happen again a few miles later. I took to the dealer immediately, they replaced the throttle body at a cost of $440.
Throttle body sensor malfunctioned, and accelerator peddle went limp. Dealership is telling us it's not under warranty, we're under the 36,000mi but over on the 3 years however now I'm reading this is a very common problem with this make and model.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the vehicle stalled and lunged forward abnormally. The contact did not take the vehicle to the dealer or a mechanic for a diagnostic test. The contact called the dealer and the dealer stated the throttle could be an issue. The failure mileage was 41,000. Updated 11/15/13
Driving home from a day trip w/ friends and when approaching light, car started bucking. When the gas petal was pushed down, the vehicle only went 20 mph and was quickly dropping speed. The red wrench appeared on the dash. We pulled over in a not so very nice part of this particular town, shut off the car. Fortunately for us, the vehicle started and we got home. I have a call to the dealership who sold the vehicle (used) to me in 2012. I am hoping to hear from them tomorrow. Prior to this happening, I explained to them that the vehicle seemed to hesitate many time while driving ; only to be told they couldn't find anything. I know of two friends who experienced this problem and the dealership repair this for free. I am hoping the same. It seems to be though, that this is a recall issue. Imagine if I would have been traveling at high speeds and a big mac truck was behind us. I wouldn't be writing this today. Thank you.
Started accelerating from a stop light, vehicle stalled and would not go, however engine continued to idle. Wrench light on dash board came on. Turned ignition off then started vehicle back up. Vehicle ran fine and no codes were stored in computer. Condition has gotten so bad within a two week period that it has set the P2112 code for stuck open/stuck closed throttle body. It appears as if the throttle body will need to be replaced. This is a very unsafe condition as vehicle may stop on railroad tracks, in intersections, and while traveling down a highway at highway speeds. There is no warning with this condition.
I was driving home with my five year old son when I noticed my vehicle seem to be running rough. First, I noticed a rough idle when I stopped at a stop light. Then, while turning accross on coming traffic the vehicle looses all power with no throttle response and the engine light illuminated. At this point I was still in the way of on coming traffic and could not accelerate to finish the turn. Thank god I did idle to safety. I then stopped on the side of the road and put the vehicle in park and observed a very rough idle and no throttle response at all. I shut off the vehicle and restarted it after thirty seconds and it ran normal again with the engine light off. I immediately took the vehicle to a parts store to have the the ECM scanned for trouble codes. The tech could not recover or read any codes at that time. I found that troubling at the time but found out later that not all scan tools can access stored codes. I had this occur twice the next day while driving to work. I then called my local Ford dealer to schedule service and when I told him the symptoms he immediately knew the problem. I ordered a new throttle body assembly per their instruction and asked if there are any recalls or tsb's on this issue if it's that common. The dealer checked and found a tsb on this problem but no recalls. I personally feel this is definately a safety concern and should treated as that before someone does get hurt or worse, killed in an accident. I called Ford customer service the next day to file a complaint and find out why they aren't being proactive with this serious issue. I was told that they have no known safety recalls or tsb's at this time. I was also told that this problem was not something they had encountered very often. Since then, I have researched this and found that it is very known and being investigated at this time. Thank you.
While driving check engine light came on and car wont accelorate for me as hard as I press accelorater did not make difference just wouldn't go any faster. If I was on highway or someone behind me it sure would be major problem.
After approximately 100 feet of travel the engine suddenly braked so that we were traveling at around 6 mph. Throttle was not responsive. I returned home and parked the car and used another one. About an hour later the car started and performed normally. My pocket scanner showed obd2 code 2111, meaning the throttle actuator control was stuck open. I replaced the throttle body, including the actuator control that morning. The car has now run about a week and several hundred miles with no trouble. The number on the original throttle is 100053000805. The new one is ds7Z*9E926, at least that is what it says on the ticket. I have the old part boxed up in case Ford ever recalls it. The parts man at Ford said that the throttle part number had been revised a couple of times. I am just glad that it went bad on a quiet street and not in heavy traffic. I am also glad that I could change it myself and not have to listen to run around.
My daughter was driving to school on the hwy to school and car shut down completely which lost all power pulled over and tried to restart and had to wait places to me (father) and then it restarted then she drove on to school then she took car on to dealership and dealership performed search and found that it was a throttle body that was going out.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Fort Campbell, KY, USA