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9.0

really awful
Typical Repair Cost:
$184.00
Average Mileage:
149,000 miles
Total Complaints:
8 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (4 reports)
  2. replaced computer (2 reports)
  3. bought a new computer-pcm/ecm with lifetime warrenty (1 reports)
  4. replace pcm wire harness connectors seating (1 reports)
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee engine problems

engine problem

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1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Owner Comments

problem #8

Apr 012013

Grand Cherokee Inline 6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 150,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Dangerous to drive...dies when driving in traffic randomly. I have had it checked out by many different machenics...each think its something different causing it...the only thing that helped for a while was to sucure the broken clips on the connectors that connect to the computer! But doesnt totally fix the problem! I love my jeep..cant afford to trade it in..want to fix the problem without putting much money into it...other than this problem it runs great. Please any suggestions?

- , Hutchinson, KS, USA

problem #7

Oct 312013

Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 190,000 miles

My Jeep will run fine for a week or two, then starts acting up, will not run right, skips and cuts off. It will start back but it takes about 15 to 20 minutes of cranking and waiting before it will start. I have replaced the computer 2 times. I'm just wondering if computers could be the problem again !!!!!!!!!!!

- , Stanley, NC, USA

problem #6

Mar 012011

Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 109,000 miles

click to see larger images

engine stalls out while driving engine stalls out while driving engine stalls out while driving engine stalls out while driving

About a year ago, my 97 GC started with the stalling problem. I have replaced everything that everyone talks about ...It is a complete shutdown of ignition....Most times, the Code readers say that it is the ignition coil, or ignition coil signal. It is also very random....and not necessarily heat related. Sometimes, the vehicle won't start after sitting all night....sometimes it will stall when backing out of the driveway....sometimes after 10 minutes of driving....sometimes not at all for a trip to the store, but then stall several times coming home from the store. One thing is for sure….It gets worse and worse as time goes on. Sometimes, it helps to disconnect the battery....sometimes, it doesn't. There are times when it refuses to restart, and then unplugging and replugging various sensors helps. Sometimes, it helps to reset the PCM connectors....and then sometimes it doesn't. Well....I've been through all the replacement stuff...I've traversed the awful sensation of the car stopping suddenly while I'm in the center lane during rush hour....I've experienced the horror of stalling in the middle of an intersection, and the frustration of not getting to work on time. Oh baby...I know this problem...and I am a long-time veteran of electronic circuitry. I am a component-level troubleshooter, and I was not about to allow this problem to win the day.

Unfortunately...this problem is allusive in it's randomness....and also by the pesky disappearance when you replace a sensor....then it rears its ugly head a few days later. So......after $500-$1000 worth of component changing...you are left with the same problem and a box of used parts that probably were never bad to begin with.

So....On to the solution. Now, one person on another forum suggests shortening the length of the PCM cover screws a bit. I’m not convinced that this does anything…but it seemed to work for him.

Nevertheless....I was willing to shorten up those screws, simply because it doesn't hurt to give it a try. But my final analysis concludes that there's no doubt that the problem rests in the PCM Connector configuration. Whether it is dirt, corrosion, or poor intimate contact in the connector or the PCM....the problem is right there....and most likely caused by many years of vibration, the weight of the cable harness, and the 90 degree angle of the connectors.

I've noticed that several people have claim success using zip ties on the connectors, and while this may work, I am uncomfortable with the use of zip ties because they put stress on connectors in weird directions....the problem may return over time.

I was convinced that the solution rests in ensuring a zero-vibration environment at the connector. But the connectors needed to be seated firmly and perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the PCM.

The screws? well, they might play a part in all this, but I could see nothing down in the screw holes that would suggest a short circuit with a circuit board component....it is just an empty hole. The screws could be corroded, and not making good contact...but if you remove the screws completely, the symptoms don't change. Sooooo I'm skeptical about the whole screw thing.

So, I ran into a forum post elsewhere that describes this same problem, and the creation of a connector bracket. This sounded perfect. So I made one. It cost me $6.43 for the materials...it took 15 minutes to make the bracket....and 45 minutes to install.....and now my stalling problem is gone.

Very simple. Go to Home Depot....buy the following junk: 1 - 36" Steel Bar 1" wide X 1/8" thick 2 Bolts 4" long X 1/4 2 Wingnuts (1/4")">

From the steel bar, using a hacksaw, cut off 2 lengths of bar 9" long each. Drill holes large enough for the bolts on both ends of the bars One bar goes behind the PCM One bar goes on top of the connectors Use the wingnuts to tighten the connectors firmly into place.

Details: Remove your battery cables and short them together (use a wrench or screwdriver) Remove the coolant overflow tank hose...set aside (1 minute) Remove three coolant overflow tank mounting screws (5 minutes) Remove coolant overflow tank (1 minute) Remove PCM Connectors from PCM (1 minute) Remove 3 PCM Mounting bolts (5 minutes) Remove PCM (30 seconds) Remove screws from front plate of PCM and grind them shorter or replace them with shorter screws (just in case)(5 minutes) Place one bar on backside of PCM...Place other bar on front...then wingnut them in place from the front(this is just to get the bracket in place because you can't put the bolts on while the PCM is still mounted on the firewall) (2 minutes) Now Mount the PCM back onto the firewall (5 minutes) Loosen the wingnuts out to the end of the bolts....Install the connectors....tighten down the wingnuts with great zeal, but not so much as to distort the bar very much. (there will be some bow in the bar...but don't sweat it)(5 minutes) Now reinstall your Overflow coolant tank (5 minutes) Reconnect your battery (2 minutes) Start Car and Drive away. Ooops..wait Stop Car..get out....close hood...Now drive away

- , Middlefield, OH, USA

problem #5

Oct 012011

Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L I6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 160,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

So Jeep started stalling intermittently in all types of dangerous situations...on the highway at 70 mph, in the driveway, just about anywhere, any time. I replaced the fuel pump system yesterday with no improvement. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions - will look at some of these suggestions but think new car is a good option (not a Jeep!)

- , Clovis, CA, USA

problem #4

Mar 132010

Grand Cherokee 4.0L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 143,000 miles

engine stalls while driving? replace air intake valve was stuck open, replace camshaft sensor, replace distribitor cap, rotor, and sensor, replace ignition coil, a full tune up with injection cleaning. still have the problem stalls out while driving, this is dangerous for a disabled person, i read about 35 different complaints with no solutions to exactly the problem is from fuel pumps to computer problems..... I'm disabled

Update from Jan 29, 2012: went to the dealership they Power control module / ecm computer- now its working great with no stalling

- , Whittier, Calif, USA

problem #3

May 142008

Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 180,000 miles

For the past couple of years, my jeep will simply stall without warning. Engine warm, engine cold, hot weather, cold weather, full moon, no moon, democrats in office, republicans in office, there is no pattern. I could drive 1000 miles without incident, or I might stall every 10 feet just getting out of the parking lot. Fuel pressure is good before and after stalling, and vacuum is consistently good and steady.

I replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, distributor, and coil. It runs like a watch...when it runs. I noticed that wiggling the connections to the PCM affected the idle, so I removed plugs, cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and applied dielectric grease and reinstalled, using zip ties (2 on each connector) to hold plugs in place. This worked well for several months.

Then, It came back. As months go by, it has increased with greater frequency. Replaced coil again, seemed to help for a couple of weeks. However, recently, connections to PCM have become much more sensitive to the point that the vehicle will start and move, but is unsafe to drive. Any wiggling of the wires or harnesses will immediately kill the engine. No codes on computer (seems to forget data after restart as well, scan tool shows computer re running emissions self tests).

This is a very, very common problem with all ZJ model Grand Cherokees. Just type "jeep stalls" into google, and you will find a hundred complaints on message boards exactly like mine.

Apparently, this has been a well known problem for several years. Chrysler should have issued a recall a long time ago since this is a safety issue. I hope someone starts a class action lawsuit against Chrysler, as not only have they refused to deal with the problem, but they refuse to admit that the problem even exists.

I wonder if the people who issue safety recalls for Chrysler had anything to do with the Ford Pinto...

- , Houston, TX, USA

problem #2

Apr 012007

Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L I6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 130,000 miles

Car would stall randomly. I could be going 70 on the interstate, 30 in town, in reverse in my driveway, or sitting at a light. Hot, cold didn't matter. Took it to 2 different "factory authorized" dealers, 2 times each. Each trip of course is a pain in the ass, but makes you feel even more raped when they don't fix the problem, and say they wont refund your money because work was done and there is no warranty on electrical parts. New car or not, take your car to a reputable repair shop instead of the dealer. After research and my own troubleshooting I replaced the drivetrain computer (NAPA $300.00) It ran good for just over a year but the problem is starting again. I suspect a design problem with the wire connection points in the computer because you can recreate the symptoms by wiggling the wires going into the computer as the vehicle is idling. Make sure to secure the wires and install the protective covers if you remove them.

Update from May 2, 2010: I found Auto Computer Exchange on ebay and ordered a 2nd replacement. This one was $185.00, and so far I have been 100% stall free for about 6 months. I dealt with a guy named Louis- 954-983-4948. He will want the usual info plus original part # and VIN. They were quick to ship, and very helpful. (since mine was already a replacement, I called a dealer, who gave me a chrysler # to call, who looked up my VIN to get the original part #). I just turned 200,000, went on a trip and averaged 24.6 MPG. Love the 4.0.

- , Tampa, FL, USA

problem #1

Jan 012008

Grand Cherokee Laredo V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 130,000 miles

My car just stalls/stops at any speeding when running. It started in January of this year (2008). We have brought it to two mechanics. They changed some parts but then the

problem comes back. It is now at the Chrysler dealer and they can't figure out what is wrong with it.

- , San Francisco, CA, USA

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