My 2011 Hyundai Tucson AWD GLS Gray in color was purchased at Harbor Hyundai in Long Beach CA.
The vehicle has 181,000 miles. The intake Manifold was replaced in 2019. The vehicle passed smog in July 2022.
Then the car lost all power one day taking my grandsons to school and would not accelerate over 40 mph. Especially going uphill and the car runs rough when idling. Now the vehicle continues to loose acceleration everyone I drive it but inconsistently.
It will also stall at any speed but usually when first starting the car or while braking to stop for a red light. I put the car into neutral every time I am preparing to stop to try and prevent the engine from stalling.
Today it stalled on the 91 FRWY and it was very scary because it must be restarted in neutral and can take several minutes to get the engine to start.
I have run a code report on the vehicle and it shows a vacuum leak but that was tested and a vacuum leak was not found.
A catalytic converter code comes up but that is not accurate because that code showed up several days prior to passing smog test.
This problem is dangerous and a recall should be placed on this vehicle because this is a serious issue that is going to result in loss of life or serious collision because loss of acceleration and power occurs at high speed as well as stalling at high speed, and that is very very dangerous. And since it is random, it is not known when it might or might not happen
Update from Oct 16, 2022: The loss of acceleration was due to a bad crankshaft position sensor
the Engine Control Module (ECM) and TAC Throttle Actuator control system.
The codes are PO335, P0605 and P2110
I first realized when the RPM Gauge inside my vehicle was not working, is when the car would start acting up, running rough and stalling out even at high speed, and especially when stopping, I had to put the car into neutral to keep it running at a signal. Then the next day it might run all day long and not have any problems at all but once the gauge stopped working it would start with all the problems. So then I went to Auto Zone and ran the codes and these are the ones which popped up. I had a friend do this for me also to double check and the same codes came up.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
My 2011 Hyundai Tucson AWD GLS Gray in color was purchased at Harbor Hyundai in Long Beach CA.
The vehicle has 181,000 miles. The intake Manifold was replaced in 2019. The vehicle passed smog in July 2022.
Then the car lost all power one day taking my grandsons to school and would not accelerate over 40 mph. Especially going uphill and the car runs rough when idling. Now the vehicle continues to loose acceleration everyone I drive it but inconsistently.
It will also stall at any speed but usually when first starting the car or while braking to stop for a red light. I put the car into neutral every time I am preparing to stop to try and prevent the engine from stalling.
Today it stalled on the 91 FRWY and it was very scary because it must be restarted in neutral and can take several minutes to get the engine to start.
I have run a code report on the vehicle and it shows a vacuum leak but that was tested and a vacuum leak was not found.
A catalytic converter code comes up but that is not accurate because that code showed up several days prior to passing smog test.
This problem is dangerous and a recall should be placed on this vehicle because this is a serious issue that is going to result in loss of life or serious collision because loss of acceleration and power occurs at high speed as well as stalling at high speed, and that is very very dangerous. And since it is random, it is not known when it might or might not happen
Update from Oct 16, 2022: The loss of acceleration was due to a bad crankshaft position sensor the Engine Control Module (ECM) and TAC Throttle Actuator control system.
The codes are PO335, P0605 and P2110
I first realized when the RPM Gauge inside my vehicle was not working, is when the car would start acting up, running rough and stalling out even at high speed, and especially when stopping, I had to put the car into neutral to keep it running at a signal. Then the next day it might run all day long and not have any problems at all but once the gauge stopped working it would start with all the problems. So then I went to Auto Zone and ran the codes and these are the ones which popped up. I had a friend do this for me also to double check and the same codes came up.
- Lorie M., Orange, US