OK back again with anoughter problem that i've found and fixed. This time I'm talking about a hard start problem, with multiple P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306. I was having a problem after it started to warm up. it would start normally in the cold and she would be fine for pretty much threw out the day. But every once in a while as im going up hill on cruse the check engine light would flash which means for those that aren't automotive savvy it means that the "computer" just recorded a engine misfire. also once i shut the engine off after it warmed up i would try to start it and it would just crank and crank and crank until finally it would start.Now im not going to lie i have done some part chasing with this one, ive done the usual plugs wires cap rotor blah blah blah. To clarify what i have is a California emissions chevy. you can find this out by looking under the hood on the radiator cover there should be a short long sticker stating the engine information.
ok now that we have that information and you believe that this is your problem. there's a recall on this motor for the injector poppets sticking closed i dont have the number of the bulletin in front of me so i cant give that to you otherwise i would. Anyways forget about calling Chevy no matter calling the dealer of the corporate number they will only tell you that your vin is outside the range for the recall.
now lets get to fixing the problem there is ALOT of CLEANING involved more so then actually turning a wrench. on www.s10forum.com there are full instructions on how to fix this problem and theres alot of BS threads about this to.
First, disconnect the battery this is actully important bc were going to be dealing with fuel
the wire harness thats on top of the motor will have to be removed or loosened to the best of your ability just take the time to label what you unplug i know it sounds like a duh thing but trust me on this one
after you have the harness removed or at least outta the way what were going to need to do is remove the throttle body from the plastic intake that it sits on (BTW remove the whole air intake also from the throttle body to the MAF) this is held on by 3 bolts if i remember. And keep the bolts separate from everything else
your going to need to remove the sensors that are on the throttle body and clean the crap out of it with carb cleaner were talking scrubbing and spraying for a long time now
once thats shiny again your going to need to remove the coil, and vacuum line that leads to the brake booster and theres one more on the driver side of the intake after your clear remove the bolts for the upper intake and release the fuel pressure in the lines via the test port in the line.
remove the electrical connector for the fuel spider along with the fuel lines
now see if your able to gently remove the upper intake manifold it maybe a little tricky i know mine was and clean the crap outta that too
and bam as you can see in the photos there is the injector spider now the service bulletin it just says to clean the spider but how about we do one better lets replace it for a better design
pull each poppet nozzle out of its place and remove the spider and its bracket
the tough part is installing the new spider and figuring out which way you can bend the lines so that it can sit back down in the new bracket
after you finish that just reverse these instructions
now the new spider is pricey but well worth it i spend a tad under 300 bucks but i also work at a parts store so you maybe looking around 350ish for the parts and cleaners i also put brand new gaskets in everything. now i know this was a bit if a quick run down so if you have any questions send me a email linkin_park12927@yahoo.com i have always answered all emails no question is too dumb or small. (No lie i had some one ask me what the white lights were on the back of the car.)
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
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OK back again with anoughter problem that i've found and fixed. This time I'm talking about a hard start problem, with multiple P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306. I was having a problem after it started to warm up. it would start normally in the cold and she would be fine for pretty much threw out the day. But every once in a while as im going up hill on cruse the check engine light would flash which means for those that aren't automotive savvy it means that the "computer" just recorded a engine misfire. also once i shut the engine off after it warmed up i would try to start it and it would just crank and crank and crank until finally it would start.Now im not going to lie i have done some part chasing with this one, ive done the usual plugs wires cap rotor blah blah blah. To clarify what i have is a California emissions chevy. you can find this out by looking under the hood on the radiator cover there should be a short long sticker stating the engine information.
ok now that we have that information and you believe that this is your problem. there's a recall on this motor for the injector poppets sticking closed i dont have the number of the bulletin in front of me so i cant give that to you otherwise i would. Anyways forget about calling Chevy no matter calling the dealer of the corporate number they will only tell you that your vin is outside the range for the recall.
now lets get to fixing the problem there is ALOT of CLEANING involved more so then actually turning a wrench. on www.s10forum.com there are full instructions on how to fix this problem and theres alot of BS threads about this to.
First, disconnect the battery this is actully important bc were going to be dealing with fuel
the wire harness thats on top of the motor will have to be removed or loosened to the best of your ability just take the time to label what you unplug i know it sounds like a duh thing but trust me on this one
after you have the harness removed or at least outta the way what were going to need to do is remove the throttle body from the plastic intake that it sits on (BTW remove the whole air intake also from the throttle body to the MAF) this is held on by 3 bolts if i remember. And keep the bolts separate from everything else
your going to need to remove the sensors that are on the throttle body and clean the crap out of it with carb cleaner were talking scrubbing and spraying for a long time now
once thats shiny again your going to need to remove the coil, and vacuum line that leads to the brake booster and theres one more on the driver side of the intake after your clear remove the bolts for the upper intake and release the fuel pressure in the lines via the test port in the line.
remove the electrical connector for the fuel spider along with the fuel lines
now see if your able to gently remove the upper intake manifold it maybe a little tricky i know mine was and clean the crap outta that too
and bam as you can see in the photos there is the injector spider now the service bulletin it just says to clean the spider but how about we do one better lets replace it for a better design
pull each poppet nozzle out of its place and remove the spider and its bracket
the tough part is installing the new spider and figuring out which way you can bend the lines so that it can sit back down in the new bracket
after you finish that just reverse these instructions
now the new spider is pricey but well worth it i spend a tad under 300 bucks but i also work at a parts store so you maybe looking around 350ish for the parts and cleaners i also put brand new gaskets in everything. now i know this was a bit if a quick run down so if you have any questions send me a email linkin_park12927@yahoo.com i have always answered all emails no question is too dumb or small. (No lie i had some one ask me what the white lights were on the back of the car.)
- Steven L., Seneca Falls, NY, US