This truck has cost me over $1600.00 in a/c problems and every year I have to recharge it. The last 2 years when I try to turn on the heat a little door slams shut somewhere and no hot air comes out, just cold air. My son says that it is going to cost an astronomical amount of money to fix. I don't have it. My husband died in and this was his truck and now it is my main transportation. I am retired and live on a fixed income so I can't afford any more bills. I had to replace both front ball joints, have the transmission fixed.The engine light is on and I can't find out why. The air bag light is on and don't know why on that either.

This truck has a little over 92,000 miles and never even been on any long trips.The dash cracked and had to be replaced, Dodge did pay for the parts but we had to pay for the labor. I think the year 2001 was a bad one for Dodge trucks.There is a sloshing noise from the radiator, I had it flushed and it went away for a while but it is back again. It is terrible to be old and on a fixed income and have all the problems with the Dodge truck. We always loved Dodge but not any more. I am going to raise the devil with them via emails. Thank you.

OK, I have a rant on this site about my truck for other reasons..........

Thia is not a rant, but a lesson on how to fix this issue.........I replaced a leaking heater core last November..........I was never satisfied with the heat coming out, i tried a new thermostat, ran a Chevy 200 degree thermostat in it, boarded p the rad, kept the antifreeze full...........nothing got me above luke warm, well after talking to a very good friend that is a dealership tech, he suggested that the parts house heater core i bought was probably plugged...........he explained, that alot of the cores are now imported(read that Chinese, Taiwanese) and they solder them and the solder migrates too far in and plugs the core, basically the water flows through the top tank and bypasses the core itself, you get a little heat through radiant heat inthe metal but not actual coolant flow through it ...........I took it out and it was thoroughly blocked.......I purchased a brand new unit, tested it in the kitchen sink, ./by running really hot water and holing the core flat, you can feel the lower tank warm up as the fluid hits it..........I re installed it..........I CAN DO THIS WITH OUT COMPLETELY REMOVING THE DASH OR HEATER BOX. i CHEATED AND CUT AN ACCESS PANEL OUT OF THE HEATER BOX, INCLUDING SEVERAL FACTORY SCREWS SO WHEN I WAS DONE , I COULD REASSEMBLE THE HEATER BOX TRAP DOOR I MADE AND UTILIZE THE HEATER CASE SCREWS TO HOLD IT TOGETHER, i USE A LITTLE SILICONE ON THE SEAM TO AIR TIGHT IT AND IT WORKS AWESOME, 2 HOURS TO INSTALL A NEW HEATER CORE AND HALF THE WORK.............OK, so i reinstalled the core, buttoned up the dash and filled up the coolant.............I ran the truck up to temp, topped of the coolant, took it for a spin, stilll kinda luke warm............temp was right up where it should be,.wtf!!! Then i REMEMBERED, I used to hang with a guy who was a head mechanic at safro Toyota in Brookfield Wisconsin, we had a modified 4x4 truck it had bad heat and he had a tool he made from a rad pressure tester , he made a stand pipe that connected to the upper radiator cap housing. just like a cap would attach, filled it up, it was a 2 inch pvc pipe that was about 16 nches tall............we filled it to the top and lo and behold, more air burped out of th esystem, so i did the same thing except on the cheap. i duck taped a tall skinny funnel to the rad, filled it 3/4 full ran the engine and it burped up a bunch of air, i grasped th erad and heater hoses and squeezed them a little to aid it along, now I have intense heat , like when that truck was new..............so I don't believe it is a sdodge issue, but it may help you get heat this winter........good luck!!!