This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
While driving, the speedometer dropped to zero, the car milage displayed as ------, the ABS light turned on, the traction control light turned on, and there was a warning that the hill assist was unavailable. I was driving with 4 children in the vehicle and was unable to discern if it was an actual safety issue or an electronic malfunction. We suspect a wheel speed sensor on one of the four tires has failed since an internet search shows this is the likely culprit but it hasn't yet been confirmed.
6-2021: Crackling sound on radio, whether on or off. 2 types: Like bare wires rubbed together, or connecting/disconnecting speaker. ·Crackling persists after vehicle shut off. Eventually stops. 12-2021: ·Radio quit working, crackling sound continued, appears random. ·Observed lights on @ distance. Then off. Vehicle was parked overnight, inactive. 2-2022: ·2-year-old battery died. Dead again in a few days. (Parasitic drain) Mechanic said it needed new radio. New radio was > $600, required reconfiguration of dashboard. ·Lost many, not all functions, of SYNC System, & it goes to sleep after a few minutes. Backup camera doesn-€™t work if SYNC system is asleep. Sometimes revived after pushing SYNC button on steering column. ·Auto electrical mechanic said still a drain on electrical system, but not like before. Rebuilt alternator & refurbished the fuse box too. Said electrical drain was from information control module on dashboard. Said take vehicle to Ford, have them reprogram the module where display screen is located & the drain occurring while vehicle is parked, would stop. ·Ford Technician said they had -€œno updates-€ on information control module. Took care of recall & transmission issues, returned the vehicle. oParasitic drain & dead battery continued. 3-2022: ·Battery tests as good but dies in 2 days. Engine quit if jumper cables were removed. Then died before they were removed. Appeared dead, no start even though connected to a good battery via jumper cables. ·Asked dealer to reprogram information control module. ·They gave it back, saying, -€œIt-€™s acceptable-€. oThey disconnected an -€œaftermarket-€ module. Went from 64 milliamps to 42 milliamps. Drove 90 minutes & parked. 29 hours later battery died. Dlr. said turn off/disconnect everything BEFORE shutting off vehicle: No automatic lights, heater, phone charger, etc. Apparently this is a body control module (BCM) problem. Not -€œinformation control module-€ problem.
Dash board lights and all meters inoperative. Instrument cluster inoperative. Multifunctional display inoperative. Chimes, warning lights and messages out. Intermittent and all function come back after several minutes of driving.
Upon starting the vehicle, the dashboard does not provide information, power brakes do not seem to function, power steering quits and several items show up on dash. Upon cutting car off and restarting, they may all be corrected. The next time car is started, it may or may not recur. This has happened about six times recently as late as today. Our fear is we will lose control of the car while driving at highway speeds. It seems many functions are controlled by computers that have a flaw. Brakes also lose power.
The contact owns a 2014 Ford Transit connect. The contact stated that the instrument panel was inoperable on extremely hot days. The contact stated that on extremely hot days, the instrument cluster failed to provide accurate information. Additionally, the instrument cluster lights ceased to function as designed, leaving the instrument panel dark. Gjovik Ford Inc. (2600 us-34, sandwich, il 60548, (815) 786-3333) was contacted and informed of the failure. The dealer also confirmed that the VIN was not inclued in NHTSA campaign number: 15V406000 (electrical system). The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 68,000.
- Sandwich, IL, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
My Ford Transit connect rear lift-gate would not open. Stationary. All door locks worked with the key fob except the rear lift-gate. The lift-gate would not work with the interior door lock electric switches. I was unable to open the lift-gate in any manner. The lift-gate does not have a lock operated by a key, just an electronic switch. I checked the 10amp fuse for the rear lift-gate lock and it was defective. I replaced the fuse and the door worked for about a week before breaking again. I replaced the 10 amp fuse 4 more times, each time immediately blowing the fuse. After reading 2 similar online issues about this, my operational theory was that the electrical wires powering the rear lift-gate switch were "shorting out". the most likely place was the area where the wires passed from the car body to the rear lift-gate. However, since I was unable to open the lift-gate, I was not able to access the wires. I took the Transit connect to the closest Ford service facility, and they fixed the problem. The service person removed the protective rubber sleeve covering the wires exiting from the right side of the transit chassis to the right side of the lift-gate. One could easily see a number of black wires with insulation missing and exposed copper wire. The wires were contacting each other and/or the metal where the wires exit the chassis. I do not know what the other wires operate, but the rearview camera had been intermittently malfunctioning for months. (car in motion, backing up) I feel this to be a dangerous situation, for the shorting wires are in the approximate vicinity of the gas fill spout inside the chassis. Gas vapors could ignite. This is potentially a dangerous situation.
Possible BCM issue. The battery drains with the BCM fuse installed. The fuse pulled stops the battery drain issue. The batter was replaced and same issue occurs. Battery drain occurs overnight. Second issue. The transmission shifts rough between first and second gear, and bumps at highway speeds when accelerating. Have taken the vehicle to the dealer five times. Transmission overhauled, but issue continues. Have gotten transmission failure warning sign.
The contact owns a 2014 Ford Transit connect. While driving 55 mph, the vehicle seized without warning. The contact attempted to veer to the shoulder of the road. The vehicle was towed to friendly Ford (2250 South rd, poughkeepsie, NY 12601, (845) 462-1900) to be diagnosed, but a failure code could not be found. The vehicle was also test driven and the failure was not duplicated; however, the ignition switch was replaced. The failure was experienced several times. The vehicle was towed back to the dealer where a second diagnostic test determined that the body control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact referenced NHTSA campaign number: 15V005000 (fuel system, gasoline), but the VIN was not included in the recall. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 32,000.
Has been blowing the backup camera 5 amp fuse, intermittently for the past few months. Last few days the hill assist light and the ABS light come on also the power steering goes away not a good thing, when I shut the ignition off then back on again most of the time the lights go off and the steering is back, I bought this vehicle new, it was never in an accident. The only repair was done by the local dealer they replaced the fuel pump and sending unit that was a recall..also the sliding door locks that were a recall. I found wires going to the lift gate have had the insulation skinned off because they rub on the inner body panel hole.. as you can see in the pictures I used liquid electrical tape on the wires and put plastic split wire loom tubing over the wires. Also took white rubber tube and split it and put it on the inner panel opening that caused the wire insulation to get rubbed off. This Ford Transit connect van has 32,000 miles....I thought fixing these wires would cure the problem, after going for a couple rides and lifting the tailgate it still blows the fuse. And the other lights still come on. Obviously the skinned wires I repaired were a problem, there apparently is another issue or two
The rear window wiper was blowing its fuses randomly. Also noticed the tail lights and cargo dome light blinking off and back on as the liftgate was raised or lowered. I removed the vehicle end of the passenger side corrugated rubber wireway from the body and discovered the wire harness severely abraded where it crossed thru the opening in the body. About three quarters of an inch of the harness wrapping and wire coverings on three wires were scraped away exposing bare copper wires which were shorting out to the body as the liftgate was opened or closed. The stamped hole in the metal body has a sharp, ragged inner edge. The same situation exists on the drivers side but owing to the wire harness being smaller and having more slack on that side, the abrasion has only removed the harness covering so far. Having diagnosed the problem from observing the faulty wiper and tail light symptoms, I have repaired the wire harness, lined the rough metal holes with flexible plastic grommet strips and restored functionally before anymore trouble occurred. I feel this could be more serious for others unaware of their pending failure. I've no doubt this condition exists in other Transit connects.
Sensors and rearview camera start going off for no reason when in motion on a city street or highway. This has happened several times most recent is 10/18/2016. Note if vehicle is put into park. And you wait 30 seconds it will stop. But starts up again, after 20 seconds.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Palm Bay, FL, USA