This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Hood safety latches both failed, causing hood to slam into windshield breaking windshield & denting hood. Various electrical issue, battery issue. Alternator issues that haven been tested to be working but don't work in car. Coolant system loses pressure & over heats, no leaks, no blown head gaskets. Battery, starter & alternator all good but car will not start. Everything has power but will not turn over. Over 3,000 dollars I have spent fixing numerous factory issues that have broken or simply failed. 400$ for need windshield & dent removal from defective locking device. Soon as I fix something on my car, something else breaks. 2005 civic 1.7l automatic 126,700 miles. I have roughly 50K miles less on original engine than most & I've been having issue since I bought it at 121,100 miles. Nothing but pouring money into a car that should run with zero problems.
Dealership (spreen honday of redlands California) failed to complete airbag repair (damaged other parts during "repair") and Honda of America won't get involved to resolve the issue. Dealership damaged integrity of dash by hacking out an unseen section as shortcut, used duct tape for electrical wiring, and left a piece of dash padding in my ac system. This was discovered June 2018 when changing cabin air filter.
2005 Honda Civic sedan, ignition switch failure, key will not turn either way in ignition, drove to store, , when I came out of store, , ignition was locked up, , Honda had ignition switch recall, , when I called them, they said it wasn't on list of recalls, tho they had over 1 million replaced in other vehicles, ,, somehow in Honda's theory, my situation is different, go figure !!
I had common wealth motors in lawrence Massachusetts replace my air bag in on 08/05/2015 due to many post card warnings I kept receiving by mail. Soon after, a light indicating my seat belt connected to my airbag continues to stay on. I went back to common wealth motors because of an inspection sticker issue with this light problem and they tried to get me to pay over $500 dollars to fix the issue as well as shut the light off. It is 12/8/17 and the light is still on.
- Haverhill, MA, USA
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Car locks itself immediately when car key is inside. If you put your child inside and car key is inside while you are trying to close back door after putting your child in car seat and come to drive door, car locks itself immediately on closing back door even remote key is inside. Essentially it locks your child inside car until you brake window or call somebody to open car for you. Imagine it happens in hot summer and your baby locks inside the car.
I received a recall notice for the drivers side airbag and scheduled an appointment to have the recall fixed. Shortly after the drivers side air bag was fixed the air bag dash light came on and remains on to this day. A few months after the driver side air bag recall was fixed I received a second recall notice for the passenger side air bag. Upon taking the vehicle in for the second recall I inquired about the air bag light staying on. They proceeded to tell me that the relay located in the seat belt buckle was the cause of this problem and that it would cost $403. Upon my research of the internet and speaking with others who also had this same problem after the recall air bags were fixed, is seems like this is a common problem. Honda disagrees that this is any cause that they have done....just coincidence that so many other people are having this same problem after the recall on the air bags are fixed. Honda claims that it is a relay switch located in the seat belt buckle. It just seems to be such a common problem after the air bags problem is fixed. I tried to tell them also that my car has a life time warranty on the seat belt. They declined to fix it, saying that the problem was an electrical problem. So I asked them what it means since the air bag light is on in the dash. Honda says that the air bags will not work if I am in an accident, since the air bags cannot tell that the seat belt is buckled. So the bottom line is the air bags will not deploy if in an accident because the dash light came on after they tried to fix the air bags. The remedy for this according to Honda is a new seat belt buckle of which they will not cover in the lifetime warranty on the seat belt because they claim it is an electrical issue. It was my understanding that auto makers had to fix safety features that malfunction.
I first noticed the problem with the head lights dim from regular brightness to really low while driving. Then I noticed the lights inside the car doing the same dim while the engine is off. And today, on my dashboard I noticed the SRS indicator light turned on red, and stays on red as I drive it. Everything is original on the vehicle, no after market. Vehicle has never been in an accident and no repairs have been made, minor or major.
* am reporting this problem because I have noticed the same tail-lighting failure on dozens of seventh-generation Honda Civics now on the road.** my 2005 Honda Civic 4-dr sedan failed its 2013 Virginia safety inspection because the license-plate light and trunk-located brake lights (of which there are two) were not working. I took the car to landmark Honda of alexandria, va., and they discovered that the wiring in the car's trunk was broken. They soldered the wire to fix the problem. In February 2014 I experienced the same problem and took the sedan to my local dealer in boston, mass., where I now live (Honda cars of boston). They discovered that the soldering had failed and they replaced a trunk wiring harness to better resolve the problem. I spent approximately $500 between the two repair jobs at the two Honda dealers. I am concerned that all seventh-generation Honda Civics may suffer from a wiring defect that affects vehicles' visibility on the road. I am the original owner of this vehicle.
As I was making a right hand turn, a key from my key ring became lodged in a screw hole in the steering wheel. As I was exiting the turn, the lodged key ran up into the arm of the wiper blades control, preventing the wheel from straightening out. As a result, the vehicle continued turning and ran into a parked car. The reporting police officer observed and noted the defect in his police report. No ticket was issued.
I would drive on the freeway and my temperature gauge would fluctuate and return to normal. I investigated the matter online and found other owners of the same car had the same problems with the thermostat needing to be replaced so I intended to buy a new one. Then when I would hit bumps in the road my electronics would malfunction. The radio (not cd) would turn off. I would have to turn in back on. Then on 10/23/2011 I merged onto the freeway traveling at approximately 45 mph and accelerating normally. There was traffic so I could not accelerate very fast. That is when my electrical components began to completely fail. The dash alarms would blink on and off, my check engine light never came on. The car jerked forward a few times. I felt clicking in the peddles and steering column. At once all the electrical and engine shut off. I had no gauges, no electrical, and no power of any kind. That's when I pulled over to the shoulder of the freeway. I noticed smoke rising from the hood. Then it grew into a fire. I immediately tried to escape the cabin of the car. I couldn't exit from the driver side because of traffic. I climbed over to the passenger side. At this time the fire had engulfed the engine area and was coming into the cabin. I exited the passenger side door and ran from the vehicle as it was burning. The entire car became engulfed with fire. Nothing was left of it when the fire department came. It was completely consumed by the fire. I'm really at a loss as to why it would do this? I took really good care of my car. I have papers that prove I just recently had the necessary maintenance on it. This never should have happened.
2005 Honda Civic hybrid: Engine light came on and has been determined that the catalytic converter needs replacing along with the CO2 sensors, cost $2000. What causes a cat conv to go bad? Honda could not provide this information and refused to look into any service bulletins or recalls. This vehicle is only 6 years old, 83045 miles. We have had numerous issues with this vehicle, including the clutch, replacement of hybrid battery, seat belts and now this.
Honda Civic hybrid 2005. Engine light came on a few weeks ago and has since remained on. Took car to autozone for computer assessment and was reported that there are issues with the oxygen sensors attached the catalytic converter. Local Honda dealership reported an issue with the software. Update is available, however they are issuing a charge of $70 to update and therefore fix the issue.
Component 1 ima (hybrid) battery assembly failure, not charging properly component 2 cvt transmission, 'start clutch' slipping & grinding when starting up from a stop
I purchased a 2005 Honda Civic new. The vehicle now belongs to my son. The vehicle was taken to the Honda dealer for maintenance since I purchased it. Approx. 6 months ago my son was stopped by the police on several occasions due to the license plate light and all of the tail lights being in-op. It was taken immediately to the dealer. They replaced the bulbs did a diagnostic check and the light still did not work. They could not figure it out. He took the vehicle to meineke for state inspection and of course it could not pass due to the lights. When the mechanic look at the wiring it had been sliced in three different places and taped back together. The wiring had either been jimmied apart, or something snagged them. I never added anything to the car. It belong to me until Sept last year. It is apparent it came from the factory this way. It cost several hundred dollars to correct. Honda is not helping me with this.
The alternator gave out with only 46,800 miles on my '05 Civic. When I called american Honda about this - since this is unacceptable - the rep told me to take the car to a Honda dealership for evaluation. I explained to her that you don't simply take a car with a dead alternator from place to place - towing would have to be arranged and I wasn't paying for another tow job. $520 later and had to have the battery replaced too.
Owner of a 2005 Honda Civic LX four-door. Having 62,000 miles on it, the car would not start. After bringing the car into the union park dealership here in wilmington, Delaware, they told me that my alternator needed to be replaced. Total cost for replacement was $448. I believe it is totally unreasonable that the alternator should have to be replaced at 62,000 miles, was very costly to have the repair done, and as a result has left me out of funds to have routine preventive maintenance of transmission fluid and radiator coolant flushed/replaced before this coming winter. I believe that this is proof that Honda is using inferior products in their Honda Civic vehicles, as evidenced by alternator replacement in less than three years, and the rear control rod defect related to the 2007 Civic ex. This is one of many recent defects/recalls I have experienced related to Honda's Civic '07 and '05 automobiles. Also having a 2007 Honda Civic ex, with only 22,000 miles on the vehicle, I had the wheels rotated by union park dealership. After getting vehicle back and experiencing a howling noise while driving, I brought the vehicle in. After doing my own investigation, and never being informed of a recall issue related to the rear control arms/rods being defective by Honda, I had to pay $337 out of pocket to have all four tires replaced. It is from this point forward that I pray nothing else goes wrong with these vehicles, and that looking into the future, after being a four-time Honda vehicle owner, I will not be considering the purchase of another Honda vehicle.
From the day I purchased it, the needle on the speedometer would periodically fluctuate. It was only ever noted on the service reports once. This mention occurred before the factory warranty expired, and the only note from the dealership was that they were unable to duplicate the problem. The needle finally froze on 80mph in 12/06. The dealership charged me $80 just to tell me the speedometer's electrical assembly needed to be replaced, that it would cost several hundred dollars, and that none of the work would be warranted, despite the fact that it had been a documented problem from the date of purchase. When the extended warranty I purchased would not cover any of this either, I called american Honda and filed a complaint. Their only offer was to pay for the parts, not the labor. I told them this was not acceptable. Some time later I received a letter in the mail notifying me of a class-action law suit filed against american Honda for the same problems I'm having with my car. I contacted american Honda again at the beginning of this year to try once more to resolve this issue. I was told that I would have to take my car to the dealership for a second diagnosis of the problem. I told them that I would be unable to do this because not only is it an inconvenient loss of time, it's another $80 I would have to pay for them to tell me exactly what they've told me before. Talking to american Honda is an absolute waste of time. The second electrical issue involves the radio and cd player. I had a new cd in one day when it suddenly stopped playing and the display flashed "hot", spitting the cd out. The cd itself was so hot it melted the top portion. Still under warranty, I took it to the dealership, where they rolled me right on through service, brushing the problem off as insignificant. This car is a fire hazard. Because of american Honda, I am operating a vehicle without a properly functioning speedometer, which is against the law.
At 1:30 pm pst on 17 February 2006, I was driving at approx. 70 mph on California state route 73 northbound, a freeway. The car was in drive and operating normally. I used the right turn signal to change lanes, but as I pushed the lever, another car already in the lane honked at me and I was upset. Then suddenly, without the key moving, the car spontaneously shut itself completely off. The console went dark, and then engine first went from drive to neutral, and then ground to a halt, spontaneously. The key didn't move.
- Irvine, CA, USA
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- Palm Desert , CA, USA