This is ridiculous... I had problems out of the car every since it was purchased. I received it as a valentine's gift and i wish i could return it.... turns over but wont start, husband tried installing and on and off switch to bypass security system... worked the first time and he drove it home after it setting at his work place for 3 weeks. when he pulled in the driveway he shut it off and then tried it again and it would not turn on... go figure...I hate this car and i wish olds would do something about it...

Okay I am really upset.... my car has been sitting in my garage since November. Everytime I try to start the car the engine cranks but the car doesn't turn over, I took it to the dealership and they had the car for a full day and they insisted that nothing was wrong with the car..... I bought a new fuel pump because everytime I placed the car in the on position and heard the fuel pump buzzing or connecting then the car would start, but if I didn't hear that then the car wouldn't start so I figured that was the solution (a new fuel pump) and it worked for about 2 weeks... I had the ignition switch replaced and and it worked for another week and then it went back to cranking but not turning over. I am so fed up I am ready to just get rid of it and buy another car. I am sick of American made cars they are nothing but trouble. Can anyone help me!!!

I always have trouble starting the engine only when the engine is warm. It either cranks and doesn't start, or when it does, the rpms are too low to maintain idle. I have had 2 gm dealers look at it. The 1st

place tried a software update. the second replaced the fuel pump. neither one corrected the problem. I have found if you turn the ignition on, but wait 4-5 seconds before cranking the engine, or push ing the gas down slightly while cranking the engine will get it to start easily. I may try a fuel pump relay or a fuel pressure regulator and let you know if it helps. cleaning the fuel system and replacing the filter had no effect. Dealerships act like they've never heard of this problem.

Bought the car in 2003, six months later it would turn over but not start! Bought a new battery, still wouldn't start, ended up replacing the fuel pump: $455. 11/2 years later, same problem, another fuel pump $465; seven months later, another fuel pump plus towing & suffering: $PRICELESS! I have spent over 2,000 dollars on fuel pumps!!!!!! I now know that i have to reset the security code when it does this, however my security light is on now & about three other lights and I am afraid to find out what's wrong-it may cost me an arm & a leg! Something needs to be done about this security problem.

OK sounds like we all have the same problem I have been searching online & found a great piece of advice from another web site here it is: Is your security light flashing? If so, leave the switch in the on position for 10 mins. until the light stops flashing. Then try to start your car again. This problem can be intermittent, but will usually get worse and be extremely inconvenient. Sounds like the typical Passlock II defect in the Ignition Lock Cylinder. A dealership will charge about $450 to replace it with another defective part. GM will never own up to the defect.

My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:

1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.) 2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.) 3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting) 4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)

Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me

http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit fails while the engine is running, this is considered a malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent system goes offline and the engine will start and run with any key that turns the lock. http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make. Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html 2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.

Here's the definitive thread on Passlock with the procedure to add the modification toggle switch: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520

Hope this help you all out. PLEASE take the time to write your complaints to GM so hopefully they will recall this problem

This problem has happened and left me stranded 15 times. For awhile I thought we had the problem under control, by not using the factory key it wouldn't trip the security and I didn't have the problem of it not starting, but of course, it came back. To make it worse, since I am not using the factory key, I was unable to reset the security device and thought it was another problem. After having it towed to my mechanic, and he was unable to get it started, my husband took the factory key to him and it started right up. That only ran me another $90.00, and almost caused me to miss getting my daughter off the bus. I feel this is a factory problem and the car needs to be recalled and fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!

Have had my Alero in two different shops and each time they tell me now they have the problem solved. Engine turns over but will not start. GM manufactured a car that is absolute junk. In my opinion this is why they phased the Alero out! PURE JUNK! Over the 5 years I have had this car it has done nothing but cost thousands in repairs!!!! I will never buy another Oldsmobile in my life!

UPDATE: It was the fuel relay switch. It was shutting off the fuel to the engine. $20.00 part but they hooked me the standard shop fee of $90.00 to put the part in. Next time I will know how to do it myself. It is located in the fuse box under the hood. The diagram on the back of the lid tells you which fuse is which. All you do is pull the old one out and put the new one in.

I just bought the car over the summer to go back and forth to school.. and this problem with not starting just started happening about 2 weeks ago.. as soon as the cold weather hit.. my father is a mechanic and tested it and said it was due to the electrical security hook up or something along those lines.. but I agree they should recall these cars and fix the problem.. not everyone can afford to spend hundreds of pointless dollars on other parts such as fuel pumps, batteries, and what not.. for something that the company is responsible for. I'm tempted to start looking into a different vehicle that is more reliable.

I have the same problem with my 2001 oldsmobile alero. the problem is if u don't lock your doors with the remote the car shuts down on u. so make sure u lock the doors every time u get out of the car with the car remote. when i forget to lock the doors thats when the car don't start. I even have to lock the doors when im getting gas. if i dont lock the doors the car dont start. so u guys can try doing that to see if that works its been working for me. I WILL NEVER BUY A OLDSMOBILE ALERO AGAIN!!!!!

Alright, really mad about this one! bought the car from a used car lot with 68000 miles on it, thought oh yea 2001 with 68000 miles for 5 grand pretty good buy. well about a week later the temperature sensor went out so i thought no big deal and went and had it fixed. well after i got that fixed i noticed it was shifting real hard and the check engine light came on so i went and had that checked out. had some bad wires to the iat sensor so i thought okay and got that fixed no problem. well then a couple of days later my girlfriend goes in to labor and we went to the hospital, well it had sat for a couple days and when we went to leave it almost didnt start. i finally pumped it a couple of times and it started. well now today i went out to start it and it wont start at all turns over but wont start. i let it sit for a couple of hours still wont start and i dont know what to do im buyin a house so i have no money to fix it and im just pissed off.

I could not start my car after I was finished work. I was in a rush to get home, but my DAMN car wouldn't start. It is done this before in the past, but it always started on the second try. I tried quite a few times, letting it rest in between. So I had to ask a stranger to help boost my car because I assumed that it was a battery problem.

I then types in the problem online and of course everyone seems to be having this problem. I am very surprised that GM is not doing anything about this. I will be checking to see if my vehicle is still under warranty, and if it is, I will get it fixed of course, but I will be making one hell of a stink! This is complete bull. We pay a lot of money for our vehicles and the company doesn't seem to care! What is up with that. This will definitely be the last GM vehicle I will every buy and I will be sure to advise my friends and family of the same.

This is really bad customer service! What would happen if someone needed to get to the hospital and they lived in the middle of nowhere, and their car wouldn't start. Is that what it is going to take for them to pay attention?

Man I hate this car, I have been left stranded so many times by this pile of crap. I have had it towed 4 times now fixed wiring, key switches ect ect ect has anyone thought about getting all of us Alero lovers together with this same problem and start a class action suit against the manufacturer. This is obviously not an isolated incident and there should be a recall and pain and suffering and I mean suffering. I have heard there is some way to reset it with the key in the ignition but the dealer won't tell you how. they want your money.