NHTSA — Engine And Engine Cooling: Engine Problems

7.1

pretty bad
Crashes / Fires:
0 / 0
Injuries / Deaths:
0 / 0
Average Mileage:
8,037 miles

About These NHTSA Complaints:

This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.

So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.

2007 Mazda MAZDASPEED3 engine problems

engine problem

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2007 Mazda MAZDASPEED3 Owner Comments

problem #9

Mar 062009

MAZDASPEED3

  • 33,800 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

I have an 2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 bought in May 2007. I had the motor mount bolt replaced during an associated recall in August 2007. A few months later it failed (July 2008). The bolt had backed out, and sheared through the last few threads. I heard this loud bang, followed by clunk-clunk noises and immediately pulled over into a gas station. I was fortunate to be on the right lane at 30 mph in 3rd gear. I had it towed to jim ellis Mazda of marietta (ga). They told me that the engineers from Mazda had a look at it and the whole mount bracket and the bolt was replaced under warranty. But over the past two weeks I've been hearing a slight clunking noise especially during slow turns, so I took it back to the dealer again on last Monday (03/02/09) to have them look at it. They found that the steering rack flow control valve was popping at times and replaced it under warranty. I had also asked them to have a look at my mounts, just to be sure. I got my car back on Thursday and was told that my mounts were fine. But on Friday (03/06/09) I still had those clunking sounds on slow turns and while pulling out of parking lots/backing up. I also noticed some odd vibrations on the clutch pedal while giving gas and during idle. The last time had these vibrations were just before the motor mount failed on me. So I decided to have a look into my mounts. I also noticed that my clock and trip meters were not reset. If the dealer had inspected my mounts they would've been reset when the battery is being removed. That raised my suspicions. I removed the battery and tried turning the mount bolt. It was I could turn it with just one hand. I immediately called the dealer and asked them what to do. The asked to bring the car over after tightening it, or get it towed if I couldn't. I tightened the bolt and it took me about 6 turns to fully tighten it!!! the bolt was almost out and I caught it before something serious had occurred. The dealer has re tightened the bolt now.

- Peachtree City, GA, USA

problem #8

May 282007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 16,000 miles
Motor mount failure. My transmission/motor mount failed causing the engine to fall in the engine bay. This has happened to several others as posted on www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=68975.0.

- Bloomington, MN, USA

problem #7

May 172007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • miles
2007 Mazda aspeed 3 is prone to motor mount failure, I am taking the vehicle to the dealership to have them address loose motor mount, which according to recent data on the web, is prone to potentially catastrophic failure if the mount fails at highway speeds.

- Mt Vernon, NY, USA

problem #6

May 152007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 2,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Shifting from 1st to 2nd gear was rough sometimes. I checked the torque on bolt of driver's side engine mount and it was loose. It turned under 30 feet-lb. Bolt was supposed to be 70-80 feet-lb from the factory. After bolt was tightened to spec shifting became a lot smoother. I was convinced that if bolt was not tightened failure of driver' S-side engine mount bolt would have eventually resulted in a couple thousand more miles. Vehicle only had 3000 miles on it -engine would have dropped over left side driveshaft, causing loss of control of vehicle. Refer to investigation PE07015.

- Lakedallas, TX, USA

problem #5

Apr 092007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 8,063 miles
I was rolling in bumper to bumper traffic and went to second gear doing maybe 15 mph and heard a cluck. At first I thought it was reflectors on the road as that was what it seemed like. I made a turn, and as the thunk persisted, I immediatly stopped and popped the hood and observed the motor fell forward in the the radiatior. It was due to the driver's side transmission mount that came loose.

- College Station, TX, USA

problem #4

Mar 162007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 3,500 miles
I was shifting into second on my 07 mazdaspeed 3 and all of the sudden the engine mount or bolt broke and caused the engine to drop.

- Rockford, IL, USA

problem #3

Mar 152007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 0 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

In the spirit of being proactive; I will like to share a possible major safety concern with all new 2007 mazdaspeed 3 cars. For the last couple of months I have been observing on various web forums a disturbing trend of the possibility of the driver side motor mount bolt coming loose causing the motor to fall while driving. I'm informing the NHTSA in hopes that an investigation will encourage Mazda into a recall/tsb before this issue causes a serious injury/fatality. Thank you for your attention in this matter.

- San Diego, CA, USA

problem #2

Mar 112007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 6,000 miles
2007 mazdaspeed 3 : transmission mount became loose and caused mis-shifts, loud clunking noises and stability degradation. Asked dealer to tighten bolt but was unable to get them too. On personal inspection bolt was loose and transmission was free to move around. After torquing bolt to spec all previous mentioned symptoms went away.

- Roswell, GA, USA

problem #1

Feb 042007

MAZDASPEED3 4-cyl

  • Manual transmission
  • 2,970 miles
There have been a few complaints of the driver's side motor mount bolt coming loose on Mazda speed3S. I had visually checked mine from the bottom several weeks ago, and it looked okay, but today I decided to physically check it. I put the front on ramps and removed the battery and box. I got underneath and removed the under tray, but couldn't locate the bottom of the bolt (or so I thought). Then I put the jack under the transaxle and jacked up a bit until the car started to lift. I didn't see the head of the bolt pop up, so I thought it was tight. Then I turned the bolt counterclockwise, carefully noting the amount of torque required to break the bolt loose. It was no more than 30 ft-lbs. I gave it a couple of turns and noticed that the head of the bolt was not moving up, which it should have been. I pumped the jack handle two more times, and the bolt jumped up quite a bit, more than what I thought I had loosened it. So I tightened the bolt back down, and it definitely took more turns to get it tight than what I had turned it loosening it. I then removed the bolt completely and looked at everything. The bolt did not have loctite on it, and there were some small bits of loose metal in the threads. I looked in the hole and saw that the threaded hole in the transaxle was not centered with the hole in the mount itself. It was as far off toward the front as it could go, probably due to the angle of the car and the jack. In the metal sleeve in the mount (this piece is unthreaded) I saw marks corresponding to the threads of the bolt when I loosened it. This binding between the bolt and the sleeve could have been the only reason I felt any break out torque at all. The threads in the aluminum piece below looked to be in reasonable shape (can't see much down there). The threaded hole is about an inch long, which should be plenty of threads if they are all engaged. I cleaned the bolt, put some red loctite on it, and tightened it to 75 ft-lbs.

- Houston, TX, USA

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