Notes: The Dodge Intrepid, Stratus & other Chrysler sedans are infamous for oil sludge problems with the 2.7L V6 engine. If someone offers to sell you a 2.7L V6 model, it's only worth the price of the scrap metal it's going to shortly turn into.

NOTE: Only the 2.7L V6 has the oil sludge problem. Our "Avoid like the Plague" designation is ONLY for models with the 2.7L V6 engine. All other available engines are very reliable with no major problems.

Even with regular maintenance, the oil sludge defect eventually destroys the 2.7L engine typically around 80,000-100,000 miles. The only true fix we know about is to put in the larger 3.2L engine, which has a great reputation.

This issue was never deemed a safety defect by the Feds, so there was no recall. In the end, Chrysler got away with FOUR YEARS worth of defective 2.7L V6 engines in their sedans.


pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
No data
Average Mileage:
96,500 miles
Total Complaints:
2 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (2 reports)
2000 Dodge Intrepid brakes problems

brakes problem

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2000 Dodge Intrepid Owner Comments

problem #2

Feb 152011

Intrepid 3.2L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 101,000 miles


I have changed my brakes, and they scream horribly. I can hear them over the radio and the kids. It is sooooo embarrassing!

- , Rockmart, GA, US

problem #1

Dec 142009

Intrepid 2.7L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 92,000 miles

This Monday when I left for work, temp in the 20s, my brake pedal was very hard to press, and I could hear air when I pressed it. After work when I left to go home, after being parked in the sun in above freezing temperatures, the brakes worked fine. Today, at 4 degrees, same problem again. Since it never really warmed up today, the problem never went away. I have read, after searching, that ice forming in the vacuum line to the brake booster can cause this issue. My question is, how do I remove the vacuum line without breaking anything? The attachment point at the booster looks quite flimsy, and the manifold end does not move, and has no hose clamp or other obvious way to remove the line. I don't want to just pull harder and harder, because with my luck, I'll break some silly plastic nipple and end up having to replace the booster or manifold. Any hints?

- , Portland, ME, USA

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