This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The electrical system was faulty since day one. When a turn signal is on and you turn the steering wheel that direction the light will turn off. This is SO DANGEROUS. The speed is also very iffy every time you break
I had a recall done on my car, and driving 10 mins from the shop it lost power. I called the shop they had me pull over and try shutting off the car and starting it back up which didn't work so i was told to drive back if i can make it, it took 25 mins with the throttle going up and down. They had it for about a hour or two and said it was the oil being low 2 qts. But, they put 3qts in, they got it working and 2 weeks later it did the same thing, I called and took it back they said it was the spark plugs and I had to pay for that. I explain to them I had no problems until the recall was done and they say the recall was good. So now we 2 months out and the thing which the recall was for is completely broken (Throttle /ECM). I was on Christmas vacation when it went into protection mode and I couldn't drive it. It showed no codes until I had mechanic come change out the throttle Body but it still doesn't work because these codes P0222 and P0123, which is the throttle position pedal. I had to tow the car back because that's not a regular carried part for auto parts stores. What's the next steps on getting this fixed because Hyundai refuse to fix it.
My AC/Heating unit has stopped functioning. Upon researching online, this appears to be a common problem in these vehicles. After opening the section of the vehicle that contains the faulty part, melting/burn marks are observed. This appears to be a fire hazard.
Check engine light is blinking. Car is less than one year old. 108,000 miles. I put 8,000 on it. Car lights go out after replacing, steering column, electrical issues, oil in spark plugs, fuel line seems clogged, emergency brake doesn't hold every time, ect taking to Hyundai in the morning. Dangerous.
- Gastonia, NC, USA
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Car was off and parked. Drove home could not get trunk/tail gate open. Key flob did not work on trunk but did work on all side car doors. I had to climb into trunk thru back seat to get groceries out of car trunk. I am very close to being 72 years old and it was a complete struggle getting in and out of trunk thru back seat especially on slanted driveway.
Vehicle experienced intermittent issues with ac function before stopping altogether along with the ac control knob making a grinding noise. After a few days I noticed a burning plastic smell and investigated behind the removable center panel of the dash and discovered the wiring harness connected to the backside of the control knob had experienced melting enough to deform and char the wiring harness end along with the backside of the ac control knob. No safety recall has been issued for this issue and a google search not only will show many others with identical problems but any photos appear to mirror the damage mine received. Hyundai of America reached out and stated that they have no intention to look into or cover the damage. This is an issue that could have not only burned my car down but also pose a risk for life and property around me. This is not normal wear and tear but a fault that seemingly is going unaddressed.
While driving in tucson AZ, about 42 mph and with A/C running, I smelled a burnt scent in the cabin, the A/C shut off. When I tried to restart it, I switched the fan switch to another position and it started again, but it only worked in the 2 and 4 position. The next day the switch only worked in the 1 and 3 position, and now only in the 3 position. I removed the trim panel to see what might be wrong and saw a connector and wire connected to the fan switch discolored from heating up. I looked at the fan switch itself and it had melted on the inside. I decided to take pictures because something is shorting out in the head unit and could potentially cause a fire. I talked to Hyundai (case#: 15918166) and they told me that they had to inspect the vehicle themselves and not go off the pictures, so don't alter any evidence. When I got down to Hyundai, they wanted to charge me $140 to inspect, then that money would go towards the repair cost, estimation $500-$600. With the ext warranty expired by 3K, the entire cost would fall in my lap. I didn't have the money to pay for this my self, so I could let them inspect it until I could afford to repair the repair cost. I think this should be a recall since it is a fire safety hazard and its evident happens on all the year models (according to the forum).
The car started to rattle and started to not be able to accelerate. I pulled the car to the side of a semi busy road and let it sit for a moment while turned off and then after 30 seconds turned the car back on. I started to drive the car and turned down a residential road (rothrock circle copley, oh) and that is when things got really bad.the car was in motion and started to act even stranger. It had issues accelerating again and then while driving down the road the lunged forward and then white smoke and flames came from under the cars front end. I jumped out of the car after turning it off, grabbed my personal items and ran off incase of an explosion. I called 911instantly and while on the phone with copley police my car was engulfed in flames. Firefighters came out and started to extinguish the flames but it was too late and the whole front of the car was melted, burned, and destroyed.
My car is having issues describing what is happening in the recall, the engine is louder than when I go out it sounds like you're knocking noise and I just got it in September. I need to speak with somebody about this since it's not listed on the recall
Car has began doing this often now. At 115K miles. Start the car, put it in drive, car won't move. Put it in reverse. Same issue. Have to turn the car off and on and repeat until it moves. Occasionally I'll stop at a stop sign and go to move after stopping and again, it won't move. Engine just revs. Have to repeat above until it moves. Replaced camshaft sensor and knock sensor. Didn't fix it. Now the car dies while in park and stalls between 15-2000 RPM. There are several forums with the same issues and no one has a solid answer. And no recall. Insane. Taking it to Hyundai and considering a lawsuit with my evidence and all the other forums and complaints.
I contacted Hyundai motor of America to try to come to a resolution with an ongoing issue with Veloster vehicles. Back in 2015, I had to have my HVAC fan speed controller replaced due to it intermittently working. The controller was replaced in March of 2015 under manufacturer warranty. Now in December of 2016, the fan speed control started to show the same symptoms as before. Then one evening it stopped woking all together. Now, I am out of warranty by mileage, current vehicle mileage is 91000. I ended up taking apart the dash to inspect the failed part and found it to be melted/burnt. Once I found this, a couple days prior to total failure, I smelled and distinct plastic burning smell and I put it off as a vehicle that was in my close vicinity. But upon inspection, I found that it had in fact been my vehicle that smelled of burning plastic. This condition is exhibited while vehicle is stationary or in motion. I went looking around the countless Veloster forums and found that this is a common issue with these vehicles. The blower motor fan speed control switch is not made in a fashion to handle the higher current of high speed fan position (HVAC). The switch has caused the plug behind it to melt as well. I completely disassembled the switch and found multiple melting points/burn marks. The fuses in the vehicle for the blower motor are good. The blower motor itself is not pulling "excessive current". I have gone through and trouble shot the issue like any good technician would. This is when I contacted Hyundai about the issue. I recently heard back from them that they are not willing to call me, look at failed parts, or offer any assistance for the repair of a flawed in design and manufacturer part. This can end up being a fire hazard if someone does what I originally did and just set the fan to work on high speed only and continue to drive the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that the push to start button failed to start the vehicle. On several occasions, it was difficult to turn the vehicle off by using the push to start button. The contact stated that the failure caused the radio and the back up camera to become inoperable. The vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the battery needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure recurred on several occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,871. Updated 06/29/16
Car often fails to start when turning the ignition key. The lights, and radio turn on when the ignition key is in, but when I turn the key to start I hear a click and the car is dead. If I repeat this several times the car may start normally. The problem stated several weeks ago. I have gone to the dealer twice. The first time they claimed it was the battery. They changed the battery (it cost me $100). This solved the problem for 2-3 days (or perhaps it was the warmer weather, see below). A week later the problem came back and the engine light came on. They replaced the oxygen sensor. This fixed the engine light issue. The car was ok for a day. The problem with failing start is back and it is getting worst. Yesterday it took me 5 minutes in the morning and 25 minutes at night to start the car. I got the feeling that the problem worsens in cold weather (I told that to the dealer the first time I brought it in, but they just ignored me). Each time I took it to the dealer the whether happened to be warmer (above 0 celsius). Last couple of days the temperature was below -3 celsius. Yesterday I parked the car inside my garage. This morning, with a temperature +4 celsius in my garage, the car started at the first try. I waited 10 minutes and tried again and the car again started at the first try. I will go to the dealer again this weekend. I tried different ways of starting the car with no success (1-clutch engaged and first, 2-clutch engaged and neutral, 3-neutral and no clutch, 3-different variations of radion on/off, as well as heater fan on, or off. The following may have been there always but now I notice since I am more aware of car sounds. There is a beeping sound when I enter the key and turn the dashboard on. That beeping sound last for about 10 seconds and ends with a click. The same happens after the car engine is turn off.
Dealer says they can't replicate the problem. Vehicle has intermittent problems starting. When turning key in ignition, usually in colder weather in the mornings, vehicle will not start. There is just a 1-click sound per ignition cycle, but no ignition occurs. All lights come on dash, radio turns on, etc. Replaced battery due to failed battery test, but this did not fix the starter problem. I believe the starter assembly is starting to fail but the dealer has been very unhelpful. I drive a lot for work, especially to remote areas, and I'm going to get stranded eventually without any cell service.
Vehicle would not start. Smart junction box was found to be faulty due to a short in the wiring harness. In addition to the wiring harness needing to be repaired, the battery needed to be replaced. Was not covered under the warranty or extended warranty.
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- Chandler , AZ, USA