I have a 2001 Sebring 3.0. It blows air just fine at all settings but the ac doesn't work and the refrigerant is 100%. The heater stopped working a couple months ago. First it only blew hot air sometimes. Now it never blows hot air. Coolant is great, temperature is great. Replaced the thermostat and that didn't fix the problem. Hot air blows out of the muffler but I can't get anything warm inside the car. I've heard a lot of blogs say that the HVAC circuit board/panels on these vehicles are horribly temperamental. I hope that's all it is and not something ridiculous like the heater core.

2001 Chrysler Sebring

When I turn my heat on it blows cold air out of the defrost vent on dash, when i have the dial set on the dash to blow at me. lights on the entire heat/ac panel work only when they want to and if the light is off on the panel thats when the heat will not work just cold air.. when the light on, on the heat/ac panel only then the heat will work and blow out of the correct vents.

There is also no power at all to the fog lights wiring either..

Help please! I just bought this car and have all kinds of problems with it of course after my 30 days was up at car dealer . This car sucks!!!! Had the same issue when i had my 1997 dodge dakota sport pickup..

AC begin to quit working when it got really hot outside. Then started getting worse until it just quit working anytime. Freon was fine. AC compressor would work when "defrost" was selected but not when any of the 3 AC selections were made. So I went nearly a year using "defrost" as my AC. Read where someone else was told to replace the HVAC Head Unit for $189 parts and labor. Being cheap I found a schematic of the HVAC Head Unit and started testing mine. I found that when I moved the smaller connector on the right side that the AC begin to work. It is an 8 pin connector and the signal for the AC is on pin 8. The "defrost" does not use this signal to turn on the AC compressor. Assuming the connection at pin 8 had cracked I reflowed the solder on pin 8 on the circuit board and have not had any more problems. Removing the HVAC Head Unit requires you to carefully remove the cover from around the radio and HVAC Head Unit. It is held on by 6 press-in fasteners, one in each corner and one midway on each side. You can test it at this point by turning the car on and selecting AC then move the smaller connector on the right side back and forth to see if it causes your AC to come on and off. If it does then you probably have the same problem. The HVAC Head Unit has two connectors that must be released then the whole unit comes out. There are 3 Philip head screws that hold the back of the unit on, and the knob for the fan speed must be pulled off from the front. Then you can pull the back of the unit a part and see the solder side of the 8 pin connector (smaller of the 2 connectors) and the corner pins are labeled which includes pin 8. Using a soldering iron reflow the solder on pin 8. You might want to reflow the solder on each pin, just be sure not to create a short with too much solder. Put it back together in reverse order and hopefully you will be driving cool again. If you are not familiar with working with electronics I would not recommend trying this repair. This worked for me but proceed at your own risk.

A/C only worked sometimes. Brought it back to the Walser Automotive. They could find no leaks or anything and said the refrigerant was probably just low. I took their word for it. Since it was September at the time, I decided to wait until this summer to fix it. I brought it to Valvoline and they said the refrigerant was 100%. I then brought it to Tires Plus to have them check it out and they said everything was fine, including the compressor, condenser, and refrigerant. They said I needed a new HVAC head unit. This is essentially the control knob on the inside of the car as well as the hardware for it. They said labor was only $50. The part is $139. It is not a part they have on hand so they had to order it. I hope this fixes the problem.