This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The plastic break switch pad broke when I was driving on the highway. I lost engine power and RPMs were erratic. Brake lights would not turn off even when brakes were not applied. I could not excellorate normally or maintain speed. Upon examination the pad was brittle and yellowing. There is already a safety recall for this part but only in certain states that does not include Arizona.
The contact owns a 2015 Ford Mustang. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired under NHTSA Campaign Number: 22V011000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic); however, while driving with the cruise control activated, the brake pedal was depressed but instead the vehicle accelerated and failed to stop as needed. The contact stated that an excessive amount of pressure was needed to depress the brake pedal while stopping the vehicle. The contact stated that the failure only occurred while the cruise control was activated. The contact had taken the vehicle to the dealer and the mechanic was also able to duplicate the failure. The dealer diagnosed that the cruise control had malfunctioned and caused the brakes to not operate as needed to deactivate the cruise control. The dealer replaced the cruise control switch; however, the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 54,000.
Rubber stopper on brake sensor dry rotted and broke off. This caused the car to think I was applying the brakes when I wasn-€™t. It would cut the throttle while trying to maintain speed and my brake lights were always on even though I wasn-€™t touching the brakes or in the car for that matter.
While on vacation (my car was at home) a piece in my brakes broke and caused my break lights to be on constantly. When I tried starting my car the battery was dead. The break likes being on like they were ended up causing my battery to corrode by time I got home from the continuous energy drain. I was able to jumpstart my car but when I went to put my car in drive the vehicle would not accelerate over pretty much idling. When I got my car towed to the dealership (Gary Yeoman's) they told me the break bumper disintegrated and caused my break lights to be on and a vehicle acceleration override to be engaged.
Trying to accelerate to make a left hand turn I lost acceleration. This continued, step on the gas and nothing wait a few seconds and the car will accelerate. Current mechanic is unable to diagnose.
Car would idle then cut off during stationary, engine would cut off while in motion on highway or city street turning and not turning. Car would not accelerate or move when pressing gas. Heated seat caught on fire. Steering wheel controls stopped working. New battery would die then be fine, car have problems after filling with gas would not start, black and white smoke came out of the exaust and displayed low fuel when it had a full tank. Car restricted me from driving past 80. Power train issues, auxiliary emission control failed, computer output circuit failed.
I was in a parking garage easing down a ramp at 5 mph when the vehicle suddenly accelerated on its own forcing the left front wheel over a sixteen-inch barricade causing the driver side of the vehicle to rise so forcefully that it nearly flipped upside down. The vehicle rotated 180 degrees and landed on the pavement with such force that the rack and pinion steering mechanism broke. My eyeglasses flew off my face and landed several feet away.
The above vehicle is a 2015 Ford Mustang eco-boost convertible. It is equipped with adaptive cruise control. When a vehicle in front slows below a set speed or a vehicle cuts the car off the adaptive cruise control slows the car down, or stops it, to keep a predetermined distance. According to Ford the slowing is done by the engine and not the brakes. Once the vehicle slows, and it is safe, it begins to accelerate back to the set cruise control speed. The slowing, not being done by the braking system, does not activate the brake lights. Only when the brake pedal is stepped on will the brake lights come on which also would disengage the cruise control. We have had a couple of incidents in which the vehicle behind does not see the car slowing, by brake lights, and closes at a rapid speed on the rear of the car. Looking at a Dodge Ram closing, not knowing it's going to stop, can be a bit unnerving. I have recently read that the automatic braking may be installed on future vehicles as a standard option. I can't imagine that keeping a vehicle from crashing into a forward moving vehicle is any more or less important then being struck in the rear because brake lights don't come on. I am certainly more cautious driving the adaptive cruise control on because of this safety issue. I have talked to Ford "customer relations dept" who weren't sure how to follow this up but to sent it up the ladder. I have a Ford case #cas-7876013....updated 12/29/15 according to Ford, the slowing is done by the engine and not the brakes. Once the vehicle slows down, and it is safe, it begins to accelerate back to the set cruise control speed. The slowing not being done by the braking system, does not activate the brake lights. Only when the brake pedal I stepped on will the brake lights come on which also would disengage the cruise control. The consumer stated on several occasions, other vehicles did not observe him slowing down because the brake lights did not illuminate. Updated 12/31/15.
With only 500+ miles on my car to date, I have experienced multiple occasions where my 2015 Mustang GT's engine shuts off without warning when I am approaching a stop and disengage the manual transmission to coast to a stop. The car does not give any indication that it is experiencing any issues prior to or during the shutdown. The engine simply dies. This latest incident nearly caused an accident because when I was approaching the red light I put the car in neutral while slowing down and the light subsequently changed quickly to green--and my engine died. The car behind me had already accelerated expecting me to proceed but I was coasting while trying to restart the car. Fortunately, there was no rear end impact and I restarted the car and proceeded. This is a serious safety issue and what makes it worse is how random it is. Ford needs to figure this out quick before somebody gets hurt or killed in an accident related to this issue. For the record, there are many others with this same model car that are experiencing the same dangerous issue and are posting their experiences online at the Mustang generation 6 forum.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Sahuarita, AZ, USA