CarComplaints.com Notes: The 2007 Dodge Caliber has all kinds of suspension problems at relatively low mileage: typically 40-50,000 miles.

The most commonly reported problems are with ball joints & control arms going bad. Tie rods & leaking struts are also reported failing in the same mileage range.

Unfortunately all the suspension problems means some owners only find out after they notice their tires are ruined.

We've given the 2007 Caliber our worst rating because these problems happen at such low mileage, & it involves a wide range of apparently defective parts. With most other cars, major suspension work is pretty rare under 50,000 miles.

10.0

really awful
Crashes / Fires:
6 / 1
Injuries / Deaths:
7 / 0
Average Mileage:
70,074 miles

About These NHTSA Complaints:

This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.

So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.

2007 Dodge Caliber engine problems

engine problem

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2007 Dodge Caliber Owner Comments (Page 2 of 5)

« Read the previous 20 complaints

problem #73

Aug 242015

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 91,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. When another driver operated the vehicle, the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle accelerated and veered into a corn field. The driver was able to stop the vehicle by depressing the brake pedal. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed by a dealer or independent mechanic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The VIN was excluded from NHTSA campaign number: 10V234000 (vehicle speed control). The approximate failure mileage was 91,000. Updated 11/04/15 updated 2/1/2016

- Columbia, IL, USA

problem #72

Jul 252013

Caliber

  • 95,000 miles
On my way home from work I stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well. I went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (I work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so I got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on. My headlight also stopped working and I replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! I just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since I was not able to fix it I had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks I was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now I have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general. My car dies at almost every stop light and if I go over 2rpm it will not acclerate. I had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since I dont make much money. The car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts. I dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most Calibers so I stuck it out but now I dont know whats going to happen. As of today, August 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the ac stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!

- Wichita , KS, USA

problem #71

Jul 222015

Caliber

  • 89,000 miles
The total integrated power control module (tipm) is the latest diagnosis made (7/31/15) for my 2007 Dodge Caliber. History: Beginning in 2010 I began to notice an intermittent terrible whining noises and loss of power, which I attributed to (incorrectly) to the Dodge cvt automatic transmission. The events would occur then O go away only to return again. Then beginning in 2011 the events were followed shortly thereafter by electrical component failures all of which caused me to make emergency shoulder pull offs due to significant power loss and the acrid odor and smoke of smoldering plumes of smoke. The acrid smell and smoke would stop when I shut down the vehicle; however the vehicle would not restart and had to be towed to a mechanic in each of the following documented incidents: 1/3/11 (mileage 67,877) tow and replace starter - $429 1/7/12 (mileage 73,943) tow and replace warranted starter - $179 2/14/13 (mileage 85,490) tow and replace warranted starter- $189 3/7/14 (mileage 97,383) tow and replacement starter - $324.03 2/15/15 (mileage unknown) replace alternator $406 5/20/15 (mileage 102,660) replacement starter $491.27 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 320) replacement starter $ (no charge) 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 325) unable to diagnose electrical problem 7/31/15 (mileage 103, 325) replacement (tipm) $ $1242 (estimate) come on Dodge/daimler Chrysler/Fiat make this right or forever forego future product purchase

- Hummelstown, PA, USA

problem #70

Dec 072011

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 81,908 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Driving on the highway at 70 mph and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and I had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 mph. This has happened numerous times I have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that I have the transmission service done by the dealer which I paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now I am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced power on her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times I have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the Caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15 updated 11/13/2017

- Parker, CO, USA

problem #69

May 012009

Caliber

  • miles
At 132000 miles, I am replacing both control arms for the fourth time on my 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT 2.0L, no to mention the numerous cv boots and ball joints. With the numerous complaints I have seen online, it is surprising that no recall efforts (at least seemingly) have been made for such a dangerous and costly defect. I implore your company, please investigate the concerns and having Chrysler-Dodge fix their errors!!! even my mechanic informed me that the length of the arm is just short enough to create continual issues. This isn't right. As a result of so many repairs on this vehicle, I will never own a Chrysler-Dodge product again. Thank you for your time and consideration.

- North Chesterfield, VA, USA

problem #68

Jun 122015

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 150,000 miles
I was traveling on I-40 when I hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn. I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it. It pulled 4 codes and they are as follows... P2006 intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15 P1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722 output shaft speed sensor P0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor now as I said, my car seems to run fine and I have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can I do to reset the codes, I already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can I do? thank you [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).'

- Jamestown, TN, USA

problem #67

Mar 222015

Caliber

  • 85,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the electrical warning light illuminated and the ability to accelerate failed. The vehicle was restarted and resumed to normal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and they were unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000. The VIN was not available.

- Glastonbury, MA, USA

problem #66

Mar 102015

Caliber

  • 171,570 miles
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.

- Tampa, FL, USA

problem #65

Feb 052015

Caliber

  • 126,000 miles
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, there was a delayed response when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The failure recurred on a separate occasion. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.

- Poteet, TX, USA

problem #64

Jan 272015

Caliber

  • 65,000 miles
Integrated power module needs replaced at 65000 miles. Dashboard cluster flickers and car only accelerates to 15 mph. Cost of repair is $1000. Dealership advised they are selling power modules at 30 a month. How is this not a problem to be a recall?

- Centerville, OH, USA

problem #63

Nov 212014

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 105,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

My car started sputtering and would not reach speeds over 10mph. I put flashers on and drove to nearby mechanic. I looked up recalls and safety sites, for this was very unsafe. I found to sites for accelerator pedal sticking safety issues dealing with the throttle boy. I am paying for repairs but also looking into why Dodge put me in this unsafe situation. I have a heart condition and was very afraid driving it while it was sputtering and shaking and not driving safe at all.

- Clarksville, TN, USA

problem #62

Aug 012014

Caliber

  • miles
2007 Dodge Caliber. Consumer writes in regards to accelerator problems. The consumer stated the accelerator pedal was replaced, but no luck resolving the loss of power problem. Also, the ABS light illuminated and a bell would start alarming when the accelerator didn't react after being pressed. The consumer believed the throttle body gear wore the sprocket down on the lowest gear.

- South Bend, IN, USA

problem #61

Aug 152014

Caliber

  • 151,000 miles
I have 2007 Dodge Caliber and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights and signal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my signal lights or nothing was working.

- Rochester, NY, USA

problem #60

Jul 032014

Caliber

  • 83,000 miles
I was driving and the car stalled out and a car almost hit me. I found out later that the throttle body messed up and shut may car down.. Dodge should really recall this.

- New Richmond, WI, USA

problem #59

May 132014

Caliber

  • 105,000 miles
I was driving on the interstate going at 70-75 mph and all of a sudden my cruise control shut off. This wasn't the main issue though, as I tried to accelerate, it wouldn't work and almost felt like I was stuck in neutral. Luckily I was close to my exit when this happened. As I started to accelerate off of the ramp to the highway, it went very slow (no more than 5 mph during the turn) and I was luckily able to make it back home. When I tried to start the car again, it acted like an old lawnmower trying to start and sounded awful. A few hours later I called a repair shop and when I went to start it, it acted like everything was fine other than the check engine light still being on. I was told some sort of sensor needed to be replaced and will be getting it repaired soon for around 75 bucks.

- Mount Vernon, IL, USA

problem #58

Apr 072014

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 118,000 miles
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly. My electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on. My power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as I had to muscle the car to the side of the road. Thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum. The car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after I pulled over. After about 15 minutes, I started the car and limped it home. Couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph. Used my flashers the entire way home.

- Pulaski, WI, USA

problem #57

Apr 092014

Caliber 4-cyl

  • miles
While accelerating on the highway on-ramp, the accelerator pedal stuck and the vehicle continued accelerating in spite of the brakes being applied. I was only able to stop the vehicle after turning off the ignition while the vehicle was still in motion. There was a recall performed on this vehicle in 2010 to prevent a sticky accelerator pedal, but apparently the same issue the recall was intended to prevent still exists today.

- Saint Albans, VT, USA

problem #56

Mar 162014

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 79,389 miles
Driving at 35 mph, car suddenly lost power and lightning symbol appeared on dash. Drove it home on side streets at very low speed (would not accelerate past 10-15 mph) put a code reader on the car and came up with code P2119. This is a very dangerous situation, and could very easily cause an accident that could result in a fatality.

- Greenfield , WI, USA

problem #55

Jun 072013

Caliber

  • 130,000 miles
The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this I researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.

- Mcallen, TX, USA

problem #54

Nov 272013

Caliber

  • 47,000 miles
I was stopped at a stop light. The light turned green and I stepped onto the accelerator pedal. As I was accelerating up a hill the entire plastic pedal broke off from the firewall and fell onto the floor. I was able to get off of the road safely, but the car is useless without a pedal.

- Henderson, NV, USA

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