Notes: The 2007 Dodge Caliber has all kinds of suspension problems at relatively low mileage: typically 40-50,000 miles.

The most commonly reported problems are with ball joints & control arms going bad. Tie rods & leaking struts are also reported failing in the same mileage range.

Unfortunately all the suspension problems means some owners only find out after they notice their tires are ruined.

We've given the 2007 Caliber our worst rating because these problems happen at such low mileage, & it involves a wide range of apparently defective parts. With most other cars, major suspension work is pretty rare under 50,000 miles.


really awful
Crashes / Fires:
1 / 1
Injuries / Deaths:
1 / 0
Average Mileage:
82,098 miles

About These NHTSA Complaints:

This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.

So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.

2007 Dodge Caliber miscellaneous problems

miscellaneous problem

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2007 Dodge Caliber Owner Comments (Page 1 of 2)

problem #25

Jan 162017


  • 134,000 miles


Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by unsafe to drive. Car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...

- Waukegan, IL, USA

problem #24

Oct 202016


  • 156,336 miles
My car hesitates when going up hill. It looses all power and only drives 5-10 mph and wont gain any speed till im on flat ground or heading down hill.

- Twin Peaks, CA, USA

problem #23

Aug 212016


  • miles
Hello, I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber. I was driving back from upstate NY to ct and the overheating transmission came on. Then it started winning, it lost speed even though I pressed the pedal to the floor. The rpms went sky high to almost 6, but I was moving slow. Sometimes my back widows don't go up or down. Passenger head light don't work.. I just want to know what's happening. Then I drive it to my mechanic and they check it next day and they say its fine.

- New Haven, CT, USA

problem #22

Jul 162016


  • 140,000 miles


Bought car used in 2014. Within a week the maniverter needed replaced. Dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. Cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. Transmission stops working when it is hot out, trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. Car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. Control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from Dodge dealer and are bad for a second time. We will never buy another Dodge vehicle.

- Clifton Heights, PA, USA

problem #21

Mar 182016


  • 160,000 miles
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes P2006, P1607, P0722, P0717. I changed all codes except P1607 because they were cheaper. The PCM runs $299 or more and I cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if I need to re program the PCM" where can I get this done" the nearest Dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and I am scared to drive this thing. I swear, I wish I never would have bought it, worst car ever. Please help me get this running right again, I am still paying for it. It has been parked since March 2016.

- Jamestown, TN, USA

problem #20

Apr 022016


  • 97,000 miles
Engine cradle completely rusted. Car is not driveable. Took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. Was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.

- Dover, DE, USA

problem #19

Mar 282016


  • 126,000 miles


Rcvd a letter in 2013 regarding front and rear cross members needing an inspection & possible repairs. I did not get this inspected as recommended. I went today to have car pre-inspected for pa inspection & was told what mechanic called front sub-frame was rusted through & extremely weak and the rear wasn't far from being rusted through. Also warned if I was in an accident it would fold because of being weak & makes it dangerous to drive. Called local Dodge dealer & Dodge's corporate customer service & I couldn't get in to have Dodge inspect for 10 days. Hopefully the "cross members" & what my mechanic calls "sub-frame" is all the same and is covered under 10 yr extended warranty. Https://

- Hughesville, PA, USA

problem #18

Nov 032015


  • 165,000 miles
Husband was driving our 2007 Dodge Caliber making a U-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second U-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.

- Naples, FL, USA

problem #17

Jun 102009


  • 30,927 miles
Original dunlop tires size 20570R15. Tires cupped after they were rotated and properly maintained. Causing loud noise and vibrating. Manufacturer and authorized dealers would not replace. Claim it was due to front end alignment issue. However, that isn't required in the maintenance book. The mechanic is suppose to recommend. Had front end aligned during regular preventative maintenance the day the mechanic said to have it done. He said at that time tires were fine. Yet no one would take responsibility for tire damage. Noise and shaking would start after 20 mph and get worse as speed increased.

- Millsboro, DE, USA

problem #16

Oct 212015


  • 137,000 miles
The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and I keep losing power to my car. It starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. I have stalled several times. This is very concerning as I have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. I am a single parent and help is not always close.

- Oxford, AR, USA

problem #15

Sep 012015


  • miles


Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars. This is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.

- Normal, IL, USA

problem #14

Jan 102014


  • 106,316 miles
While driving the car it would make creaking noises underneath the engine and front suspension area. The vehicle was taken to the owner's regular repair shop for state inspection and report the creaking noise in the engine, front end area. The technician diagnosed the cause of the creaking noise as a rusted out engine carrier and also a worn out rack and pinion assembly. I decided to report this serious problem because other individuals who have this automobile may also experience the same condition. The engine cradle and rack and pinion assembly are vital components for safe handling and structural integrity of the vehicle. Being that this is an expensive major repair, the manufacturer needs to know of the problem and should design and improve these components to resist rust and wear and last for the life of the vehicle. The engine carrier rust problem and rack and pinion assembly should also be investigated to determine the possibility of a recall.

- Moon Township, PA, USA

problem #13

Jul 012015


  • 160,000 miles
P2004 Dodge P2004 Dodge - intake manifold runner control stuck open read more:

- Eufaula, AL, USA

problem #12

Jun 122015


  • 150,000 miles
I was traveling on I-40 when I hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn.. I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it. It pulled 4 codes and they are as follows... P2006 intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15 P1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722 output shaft speed sensor P0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor now as I said, my car seems to run fine and I have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can I do to reset the codes, I already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can I do? thank you cindy jeffers

- Jamestown, TN, USA

problem #11

Mar 122014


  • 80,000 miles
I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working. I turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on. Based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module. This is completely unsafe and I can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle. With all the issues I'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product. This same style product is used in multiple Dodge vehicles and other Chrysler / Jeep vehicles. Those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.

- Salem, VA, USA

problem #10

Feb 022015


  • miles
Upon driving home from work in February of 2015, I noticed a horrible nose coming from the front of my car. As the days progressed, the nose had become worse. I had assumed there was a problem with the struts and had them replaced right away. My father in law, a mechanic, saw that the front sub frame cross member is completely rusted out. I was then told by several mechanics that the car is unsafe to drive due to the amount rust on the sub frame and the high risk of the cross member breaking thus causing an accident. After much research, it has come to my knowledge that this is a manufacturers problem and nothing has ever been done about it. The A/C unit is located right above the cross member. This unit is leaking water onto the sub frame thus causing the part to rust.

- Olmsted Township, OH, USA

problem #9

Dec 032014


  • 130,000 miles
Please find the enclosed pictures and an invoice for the cost of labor to repair my 2007 Dodge Caliber (contact with email address so I can provide photos.) the part was a K-bar, which according to my mechanic should never have been in this disrepair with only a little over 100,000 miles. I am privileged to have a mechanic who is also a Maine state inspection station to have found this defective part on my vehicle this preventing a serious situation to develop. My understanding is Toyota has recalled this similar part for repair. Your attention to this matter and concerns would be greatly appreciated. Thank-you

- Springvale, ME, USA

problem #8

Mar 282014


  • 107,400 miles
Ir conditioning compressor failed and was replaced under extended warranty in January 2013. New A/C compressor installed, but A/C clutch fell off fourteen months later as I was turning a corner. I was told that because of the compressor failure, (which one was not referenced) there are metal shavings in the A/C coolant lines and the entire system needs replacement. Service adviser stated that he has received multiple complaints of this and that I will be unable to use vehicle defrost due to this and it is the snowiest time of the year. Dodge will not replace, as vehicle and part are now both out of warranty. Replacement part only under warranty for 12 months, but have not had to engage either defrost or A/C in the past 8 months until two weeks ago, when the replacement failed and the clutch broke off. Using the defrost could result in the unit overheating, causing an engine fire or other failure.

- Arvada, CO, USA

problem #7

Apr 142014

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 83,333 miles
Drove home from work at midnight, parked my car woke up in the morning and vehicle wouldn't kick over. Had battery power and it cranked when I turned the key but would kick over to start. Towed to dealership for diagnosis.

- Melrose Park, IL, USA

problem #6

Sep 202012

Caliber 4-cyl

  • 38,550 miles
With only 38,550 miles on my car (which has been well cared for) I had to have the wheel bearings replaced. When I picked it up, my mechanic (who has been the only mechanic I have used for over 10 years) told me that the ball joints were also totally shot & had to be replaced. After a little research I found out the danger I was putting myself & others in, had him do the ball joints the next day. These 2 parts seemed to need replacement way before they should have. The dealership here (service person/al) told me since I was over my 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, (and haven't been there in 2 years) there was nothing they could do for me. Immediately after the work was completed by my mechanic, I stopped at the bank. There I saw another Dodge Caliber pull in. While in the bank, I spoke with that driver. She told me she just had the wheel bearings done also. Im not sure what year her car was but it appeared to be newer than mine! what's going on with these cars? shouldn't the dealer have had a little more interest when my actual mileage was only 2000 over the warranty. They kept pointing out that the car was over 5 years old & only had a 3 year warranty. To me that has no significance...the mileage is what concerns me. I hope others will take note & bring this to the attention of Chrysler before there are related accidents or deaths. I did try to find a number online to call Chrysler, only to come up with sales...I wouldn't buy another! please inform me of any actions taken. Thank you

- Saugerties, NY, USA

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