This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Heated and cooled seats stopped working. I checked some forums and found out it was a very common problem. This pin for the ground on the wire assembly that controls the seat is the only one, and it is common for it to completely burn out as seen in the picture. As it's in the cabin, underneath the passenger seat, it is very dangerous for it to be burning this way.
L last March 2020 I took my car in for inspection at my Ford dealership (wynne Ford hampton va) and inspector failed my state inspection because of the backup light not working. The electrical was repaired. Now my backup camera is not working. Same problem with the electrical wiring. Osha std has a quality workmanship. Ford has made a poor workmanship for these safety devices. Need a recall at no expense for consumers for their poor workmanship related to safety. Too many individuals reported with the same issues.
Update information the problem is the backup camera. Poor design and installation with possible shortness of length of wiring creating too much tension. Any device safety devices needs to be corrected. The other problem last March I had to pay is the third backup light because of poor wiring design.
Approximately 31,000 miles but warranty has expired due to lapse of time - he A/C has failed due to what the dealership called a known issue; however, even though mileage would still be under warranty because the car is greater than 3 years old they will not cover this costly repair
- Myrtle Beach, SC, USA
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Burned electrical connecter controlling front seat heating and cooling. The following is from the repair work order: #1 91mbzs seats internal guest states havc for front seats not getting cold or hot burn connector going to the HVAC control unit under the front passenger seat. I started off my checking power to the HVAC module to see if there was a short before the control unit. I removed the seat and HVAC module to clean the pins on it that were affected by the connector. After that I replaced seat harness that goes to the HVAC control module. I then put the seat back in and cleared the codes. Both the heated and air conditioned function of the driver and passenger seat work. Qty part number description unit total 1 mbeu5Z14A699C wire assy internal total parts: 0.00
While coming to a stop with the clutch pressed in the car will randomly turn off intermittently. This has now just began happening, although it has now happened to me twice in 1 months time. I have also been reading on S550 Mustang forums (years 2015 - present) that I am not the only one experiencing this. It seems like an electrical issue or something as there are people with completely stock cars that are affected by this, and also people with 2018+ newer Mustangs as well.
Rear view camera failure, when attempting to reverse the rear view camera will go blank, or get distorted. Because of this it severely diminishes rear visibility.
I see the news about the new recall of rear-view cameras going blank and not showing images. The new recall is only for 2020 models but my 2016 model has had the same issue for the last year and 1/2. I only have 20K miles on my Mustang. Rear view camera works sometimes but other times is blank and message on screen says can't display image. Occurs when in reversed while backing up.
Air conditioner was blowing hot air while stationary. Service repair stated there was a leak in the evaporator coil and to repair it the cost is $1700. Because the coil is located behind the dash the whole dash has to be removed to get to the coil hence the costly repair due to where that evaporator coil is located. Service repairman at dealership originally said alternator was the problem and that it still needs to be replaced per dealership. The problem with the evaporator coil appears to be a common problem in Mustangs with as little as 2000 miles on them. I first noticed this problem almost a year ago when my car had about 37,000 miles on it. Did not have it repaired.
The contact owns a 2016 Ford Mustang. The contact stated the air condition was activated however, hot air emitted through the vents which caused the windshield to become foggy. The contact stated that visibility was decreased. The vehicle was taken to crossroad Ford of South pine located at 1590 us hwy 1 South, southern pines nc, 28387, to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the engine evaporator core was defective and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 47,000.
The safety remote alarm systems not working, no active, the car has damage 3 battery's in 15,000 miles of use.the automatic doors security sensors not active or working. The automatic remote doors unlock system not working.
The alarm no active and the doors sensors of doors locks not work. The vehicle do this when was stationary and in motion. The battery discharge if the vehicle is not in use for 3 weeks, I replace the battery two times in 16,000 miles of operation, the car only has 16,200 miles of use.
The passenger window keeps going up and down without the switch being used. This happens while driving and even when the car is parked and off in my driveway.
Seat warmer quit working. Upon inspection by mechanic, it was determined that the seat heater module shorted at module; melted connector. (owner also reported could smell an 'electrical burn' scent after using remote start where the seat warmer is automatically set.)
Car was taken to Ford dealership on 09/04/2019, due to major corrosion on positive battery terminal, which had caused entire battery connector to crumble. Ford said it was a bad battery and replaced it at a cost of $209 to me. This morning, 09/19/2019, I walked outside and found orange liquid (assuming battery acid) on cement under where the battery is located on car. I opened hood and found that the new battery already has new corrosion on the positive terminal. I have read in several forums that this has been an issue for quite a few Ford owners. Obviously, the problem is not the battery but some underlying issue that is causing battery to overcharge.
My car was parked after driving around 2 miles and had been off for around 2 hours.when I returned to car, it would not start and gave me a message saying key was required. Dashboard lights, radio, air blower came on but engine would not turnover, just made clicking sound. I thought key fob was problem so tried the spare one. While waiting for husband to bring extra fob I noticed air coming out of bents smelled like sulpher. When spare fob did not fix problem, we checked the battery and found that the positive battery terminal had excessive corrosion and it was so hot that it was bubbling and the teninal bolt had completely corroded and fell off upon touch. Upon inspection, we also saw that the corrosion had also damaged the end of the battery cable. Five days prior my vehichle would not start after driving around 30 minutes and also said "key required" but when I took the fob apart th O look for battery and put it back together my car started on the next try. Other than that incident, there had been no prior warning that anything was wrong with the battery and I had no issues starting my car.
The contact owns a 2016 Ford Mustang. While driving, the vehicle lost electrical power and the engine stalled. On another occasion, the contact could not open the door to exit the vehicle. When the vehicle was started, the contact was able to open the door and exit the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to carmody Ford (1111 NY-29, greenwich, NY 12834, (518) 692-2246), but the failures could not be duplicated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The failure mileage was 20,000. The VIN was unknown.
I drove up to my gym, got out of my car, locked it as usual so nothing out of the ordinary. Went back out to my car about 30 min later and saw smoke billowing from windows... opened my door passenger side and my glove compartment was the source so I open it and all I saw were flames leaping from the top of the compartment and flames coming outta the air vents. Within minutes the entire glove box compartment as well as the dash itself melted onto the floorboard. Some gentleman found a fire extinguisher and put it out before the fire department even arrived. Im just lucky I wasn't in it but this had to be some manufacture defect in the wiring because I believe that it started above the glove box right were the wire harnesses enter the car through the fire break between the car and engine compartment.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Brick, NJ, USA