I purchased my GMC Terrain (2.4 Liter ECO engine) used in July 2016. It performed exceptionally well for more than 2 1/2 years and over thirty thousand miles. Both my wife and I were extremely impressed with its performance and design. (We still believe its an exceptionally well designed vehicle for our needs.) We live in south-central Pennsylvania and took it on a trip to Denver, Colorado. Performed exceptionally well. However, prior to this trip, we received notification of a recall due to excessive oil consumption. And yes, we had experienced that issue. We took it to a GMC dealer and completed the paperwork verifying we experienced this problem and they did "their thing" regarding the paperwork and oil change to verify if this was truly a problem. Well, it didn't meet their requirements for meeting the recall justifying replacing the rings in the engine. We haven't had an excessive oil consumption issue since that time.

Then, one day, as I pulled into my drive way - it stalled. Really thought nothing about it until it did it again several days later. Eventually, it began the pattern as shared in other registered complaints - after it has warmed-up while attempting to move forward after coming to a full stop it began stalling. It has NEVER done this when the engine was/is cold!

During the first several months experiencing this problem both my wife and I had several close calls. NOT PLEASED ABOUT THAT! So, I decided to do some research and "trial and error" interventions after taking a trip to Lancaster, Pa. and experiencing this problem so significantly that my wife and I weren't sure we were going to be able to get back home. I had to keep my left foot on the brake (while at a full stop) while I depressed the gas pedal in order to keep the RPM's over 1000. This seemed to prevent the "stalling" issue when I began moving forward again.

Being 72 years old and having been driving since I was 16 years old, I realized that back in the day when cars were less complicated and more reliable I would have just adjusted the idle to increase the RPM's which would have probably solved the problem on an older vehicle. However, with all the electronics on the new vehicles, I knew that this would not be a viable solution.

As I investigated and documented this problem, I noticed that it frequently became more severe when I allowed my fuel to drop below half-full and then filled the tank. Now we are in the winter months. Could condensation in the tank be an issue? I also noticed that after a period of mixed driving that the check engine light would go out voluntarily and the problem would diminish. However, not go away completely.

Now, I began to add dry gas and Seafoam to the gas. I also tried a Lucas gas additive during this process. I also began changing the oil every 1200 miles and added four ounces of Seafoam in the crankcase. After doing this twice, I thought I created a monster. I literally could not keep it started when attempting to move either forward or in reverse. However, it would sit and idle. But, what was actually (probably) happening was both the fuel system and the crankcase were having a significant reaction to the "cleansing" process. I just changed the oil again and did not put any seafoam in the crankcase at that oil change.

Most of the additives in the fuel system have been expended and when I began this process I began to use only Hi-Test fuel. For now, that's the only grade of fuel I plan to use. It has now begun to perform better. Although I have not been able to totally eliminate the stalling when the engine is warm and attempting to move either forward or in reverse from a complete stop. HOWEVER, I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO ELIMINATE THE STALLING WHEN MOVING EITHER FORWARD OR IN REVERSE FROM A DEAD STOP BY NOT LIGHTLY DEPRESSING THE ACCELERATOR BUT QUICKLY/IMMEDIATELY INCREASING THE RPM'S. IN OTHER WORDS, GIVING IT MORE GAS. IT HAS NOT STALLED ONCE FOR ME WHEN USING THIS TECHNIQUE. I have tested this many, many times not only on flat stretches but also on slight and significant inclines. You merely need to practice this technique with your vehicle and get "a feel" for how much pedal you need to apply and not either stall or "peel rubber"! Yes, it may be a nuisance until you get adjusted to how much pedal you need to apply, but it works and it's safe. The other option is to trade-in your vehicle and buy a standard clutch! - which my wife won't allow me to do!

I hope this information aids you in your quest in resolving this problem and keeping your vehicle. If it wasn't for this problem, my nest vehicle would be a newer GMC Terrain. And yes, the Chevy Equinox has the same engine and can develop the same problem! Blessings and Success!

Mr. Tom South Central PA

P.S. I didn't enter my VIN # because I didn't have it handy and GMC isn't going to address this issue due to the expense involved in diagnosing and correcting the problem. It's been around for many, many years.I wish I would have kept my Studebaker Lark and 1965 Plymouth Barracuda.

After running car for 15-20 minutes, at low idle, backing up, car will stall. Check engine light comes on. Code states cam shaft adjustor sensor failure. Sensor A replaced. Within 20 minutes of driving same problem occurred again.

Update from Apr 26, 2016: History: The car was purchased used from private owner. They had let it sit Dec-March and only being driven for test drives while trying to sell it. Problem never occurred when we test drove it, sadly. Immediately upon purchase this problem began. Did big oil change, filters, etc, check engine light went off & ran great for while, then dying began again. Mechanic replaced 2 camshaft sensors and cleared a very dirty throttle yet problem keeps occurring. Found one chewed ground wire repaired. He then checked all 30 ground wires looking for other chewed wires & found nothing. Terrain ran great for about 3 hours of hard, then stop & stop city driving and same problem recurred of stalling at low idle (stopped at drive through or stop light) and upon acceleration, car dies. It always immediately starts back up. Engine light will come on. Typically the code comes back for camshaft sensor. What is wrong with this car??

It is obvious I am having the same issue(s) as everyone else with the GMC Terrain in regards to stalling/aggressive jerking while idling at a stop sign or stop light.

On 11/6/15 I was experiencing tumultuous jerking as I was in the midst of stop and go 5 o'clock traffic when all of a sudden my engine light came on. Not even a minute later my car completely shut off, but luckily I was smart enough to immediately get over in order to get on a shoulder (I had just enough steering power to do so) when the light came on and before my car stalled on me. Someone must have been looking out for me that day because on the interstate I was on I was in the middle lane at the time and it could have had serious consequences If i had been going faster than the 10MPH because of the busy traffic. I do believe I could have been killed that day if I were going the normal speed limit of 55MPH on that particular road.

Moving on....I had my car towed to my dealership that night and by the time I called the next morning they had already "fixed" the supposed problem. The camshaft actuator sensor was bad, but the good news was that it was covered under my 100k mile powertrain warranty, so the part was replaced at no cost to me.

On 12/16/15 I took my car back in to the dealership to get it prepped for a 2k mile road trip (oil change tire rotation etc.) and mentioned to them that I was still having jerking issues while being at a stop as well as some faint knocking sounds as I started to accelerate. I was having the recurring issues for about a week (this being about a month after they supposedly fixed the problem with the camshaft actuator sensor), so I obviously wanted it checked out again in order to prevent being stranded in the middle of a road trip. So I take it in and they tell me they cannot recreate the problem and that no codes are showing with their diagnostic systems, rotate my tires and change my oil. They further mention to me to bring the car back in 1k miles (I could not do because my road trip was 1k miles one way) because my oil levels were low since the last oil change (mind you I was not even due for an oil change, but did so just because of my trip).

How are my oil levels low when I haven't even driven the recommended miles before having to change it? 1) They didn't put enough oil in it to begin with or 2) There is a bigger problem somewhere. So, I went on my trip and about 2 hours before reaching my final destination on the way back (12/28/15) I filled up my gas tank and started the car. The car jerked VERY aggressively, but thankfully it did not completely stall on me and I was able to finish out the last 100 miles of my drive. Once i pulled into my house garage, however, I shifted the gears into "park" and shocker once again my car jerked aggressively, but this time I heard a noise from my engine that sounded like a fan motor trying to cool itself.

I do not pretend to know much about cars, but I do know that was a new noise to me and that was not normal. Being a female at 12:30AM by myself I cannot begin to tell you how nervous I was that I was going to breakdown on the road AGAIN within such a short period of time. So, for the 3rd time in less than two months I took my car into the dealership (12/29/15) and on the way there it was still jerking aggressively at stops.

This may come as a surprise (insert sarcasm), but after the 3rd time bringing it in for the SAME issue they STILL tell me they cannot recreate the problem and that their computer diagnostic system shows nothing. They then come back a couple of hours later and say that there was oil from the air filter on the air filter sensor and that was more than likely the issue. So, they cleaned it off as well as cleaned the fuel injector and throttle body since those were due for routine maintenance. Now today, 12/30, I am driving to work and I still feel not only the jerking at stops (although it is more faint than previously), but now I can literally feel the engine revving beneath me as if I am driving a diesel truck.

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR?! Four times now I am having to take this in and they cannot figure out the problem. Dear GMC/CHEVY, DO NOT BUILD A CAR IN WHICH YOU CANNOT PINPOINT AND FIX ISSUES!

Does anyone have any actual fixes for this? It obviously is not just happening to me and I really do not want to go buy another car when I have this one almost paid off. I just want it fixed, so that I can feel safe driving. I hesitate going anywhere in it!

Professional grade? DON'T THINK SO!!! These terrains have been having the same problems since 2010. Wish I knew that before I bought one. Called a local dealer, he said I could pay $99.99 to verify the problem. I know there is a problem the car stalls intermittently at low idle. Looks like they have changed fuel pumps and 3-4 different sensors trying to correct these cars in the past so GMC knows there is a problem. I guess they are waiting to see how many people are killed by their stalling cars. That's why I am making a complaint because I never have before, but this is a safety issue.

If it truly has a 60,000 mile powertrain warranty and the vehicle has less than 60000 miles, why don't you tell your customers to bring it in, lets look at it, scan it and see if its a component that is under warranty? I can go to O'Reilly's and scan it and tell you what's wrong if you give me $99.99 and it not cost me nothing. I cannot believe how UNPROFESSIONAL a company is that has the gal to brag on their commercials about being professional grade. If most business did this they would fail.

DO NOT buy this vehicle. If my 07 Silverado did not have 215000+ miles without any issues, I would leave all GMC /Chevy products for good. I may do that anyway.