hardly worth mentioning
Typical Repair Cost:
Average Mileage:
50,000 miles
Total Complaints:
1 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. replace breathers and tubes and pvc valve (1 reports)
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee engine problems

engine problem

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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Owner Comments

problem #1

Jan 102008

Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L H.O (Hemi)

  • Automatic transmission
  • 50,000 miles


Hi guys,

I was surfing and stumbled on your sight and thought I could help. I have a 4.7L H.O (HEMI) I know the HEMI guys are going to tell me that my engine is not a true HEMI but in fact the H.O is of HEMI architecture and design philosophy and the 5.7 and 6.1 are also not real HEMI's but also do have the HEMI architecture and design philosophy so there you go...

I ran 13000 km on my synthetic oil and saw a reddish deposit under the oilfill cap. This happened in the end of our Canadian winters which are all cold, wet, humid, dry very cold, extra cold and you gotta be kidding me cold. I could not believe it because I was using excellent oil. Anyway I researched this a little and figured that I needed to change my PCV valve and the tube that the PCV valve plugs to (this tube is plugged into the intake manifold on the back side of the engine, you can squeeze your hand back there if you go by the top, but you RAM guys have a bigger engine bay and I think it should be much easier for you to get there than it is for me to get there) and I also changed the breathers (it comes in a kit with all the tubes).

In all it should be less than 50$ Canadian and when I did this and changed the oil the red deposit dissapperared completely which surprised me because prior to fastening the oilfill cap I tried washing the cap with brake cleaner which is pretty strong stuff and it wouldn't come off with the brake cleaner but it ended up coming off on it's own after the oil change and it was summer by that that time.

Anyway I'm probably too late for some people who needed the engine to be changed but maybe someone could benifit from this. I also want to mention (and I have been researching this a lot over the past year) I found out that in 2005 engine oil manufactures were put under the gun my the governments to reduce the amount of phosphates in the engine oils. This created incredible challenges because for the past 100 years phosphate additives were developed to reduce wear and such anyway, the new oils suck compared to the pre 2004 oils but they meet the absolute minimum requirements for engines which apparently is not that much.

Has anyone had sludging problems prior to 2005 with the 4.7 ???

Today I would use only a good synthetic oil to be safe because of all the advantages in terms of protection and efficiency but the good ones last longer too. BUT check your oil condition regularly for your application, I know I cannot go more than 8000 miles in my engine with the oil I am using now.

Hope this helps some people :)

- , Anjou, QC, Canada

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