So, initially, my drivers side door lock stopped working with key fob. I didn’t fix that immediately because it was such a small problem. Then my passenger door lock stopped working. Then I started to hear this ticking sound when the air conditioner was on. So you turn off the air conditioner, the ticking would stop for a few seconds but then would start ticking in the off position. So then you’d turn back on the ac to have the ticking start again a few seconds later. If you cycled through this, after 7-14 times, it would then stop.
Fast forward a few days and then my ac just stopped working. I took it in to get a diagnostic at a registered auto ac establishment and was told my whole ac system was bad, compressor, everything for $3400, to replace. I didn’t have that kind of money, so I replaced everything myself and then ran pressure check to see about 28-29psi in vacuum which is great. Refilled the unit and noticed it didn’t get cold. So, I shot wires and noticed the ac compressor wasn’t getting power.
At that same time, my passenger side rear door started saying “door ajar†and it wasn’t ajar. Figured it was a stuck switch, cleaned it, still says it. Two days later, when I lock the doors with my key FOB, the alarm will start going off five minutes later... I’m currently at Jeep in Alpharetta Georgia and just to look at the problem is costing me over $500. I know this is a known issue now after seeing the hundreds of reports on it. What can we do as consumers for the recurring issue?
Coming home on the I15 FWY after Fire evacuations were lifted for the Holy fire in Lake Elsinore Ca. with the Liberty loaded with everything of value that could fit the vehicle just died as if I had turned off the key. Checked fuses and found the fuel pump 10A fuse had blown. Replaced it with the drivers side remote mirror fuse of same style and amps but the vehicle would not roll over 2000 RPM.
Called AAA and was towed home. Towed to mechanic on following Monday who said it was either the brake switch or the TPIM. They replaced the brake switch for $250.00 and it drove for 40 miles then blew the fuse again.
Now back at the shop and it's an additional $1240.00 to replace a TPIM that Chrysler has know about but not recalled almost since day one. Luckily I was not rear ended on the freeway and did not cause an accident coasting across lanes to reach the emergency lane.
As a first time Jeep owner I am far from impressed although I do enjoy the Jeep when it works. Where is the class action and recall?
First front washer fluid stopped working. Then door locks stopped working. When entering the car all the alarms, horns go off until I push the back window glass button. Took to 3 garages, all checked washer motor and fuses and switches in steering column. Can not use the back door for loading. Fuses blown in the fuse box for door locks, when replaced they just blow back out.
My driver's side window switch started not working when putting the window up, had to play with switch to get it to work. Then my right passenger side brake light didn't work, replaced bulb and my headlights and turn signals didn't work. Brought to mechanic who thought they could replace the "multifunction switch" but didn't work. Mechanic told me I need to bring to Jeep dealership for TIPM (totally integrated power module) replacement. Called nearest dealership and got estimate for $975.00 plus tax and disposal fees (part = $710.00) but would need to have their technicians diagnose first for cost of $132.50. They don't have the part in stock but assured me that they would be able to get it next day and did offer loaner vehicle.
- Tracy S.,
Plymouth, US
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
This vehicle has had electrical problems since I purchased it for $45K in 2010. From having the radio and battery die within the first week of owning it, to spending $1700 on transmission repair (limp mode) at 100,000km, to now replacing the TIPM. Never again will I buy a Chrysler vehicle.
Power locks stopped working, fuse was blown, I replaced the fuse. Then the power locks would only work for unlock. Took it to dealer and they told me the TIPM was bad, replacement was $1200 and not covered. Apparently it's a re-occurring problem and recall may be warranted?
While out at night, I started my car and the lights no longer worked.They would flash on for a split second and then turn off - My brights no longer functioned either.After paying expensive labor fees to diagnose the problem, I was told the part would be $850 + labor and tax. I have taken fantastic care of this car to have a 6 year old electrical part fail in what could have been a far more dangerous situation. If this happens again 6 years from now, what other electrical problem could occur?
This electrical problem showed up in the middle of driving down the road. THE ENTIRE CAR SHUT DOWN going 40mph. Lights flashed, wipers went off, horn too, all for 10 seconds, while cruising with now power/gas. Then the car started again on its own, and kept driving. Ever since, the electrical system is screwed up. Wipers will run, but cannot push fluid. Car doors will not lock/unlock with keyfob or driver's side controls. Must manually lock/unlock all doors. Fan doesn’t work, so NO A/C or heat.
Mechanic said the TIPM must be replaced, and it is not covered by Jeep/Chrysler warranty.
This is ridiculous, it is obviously a manufacturer defect.
When I use the key fob to lock the doors, the horn beeps and lights flash but the doors don't lock. I can then open any door, or the hatch, and the alarm will go off.
We experienced continued problems with this car for several years. The date we provided earlier in the process is merely an estimate. We did take the car to a Jeep dealer when it was still under warranty and reported the problems: power locks not working, rear wiper not working, engine light coming on for no reason. The dealer did not fix the problem. Ultimately, we decided to take this to our trusted mechanic. I am so glad we did. Having a better understanding of the issue suggests that our teenage driver could have been at great risk had she continued to drive the car with the existing problem.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
So, initially, my drivers side door lock stopped working with key fob. I didn’t fix that immediately because it was such a small problem. Then my passenger door lock stopped working. Then I started to hear this ticking sound when the air conditioner was on. So you turn off the air conditioner, the ticking would stop for a few seconds but then would start ticking in the off position. So then you’d turn back on the ac to have the ticking start again a few seconds later. If you cycled through this, after 7-14 times, it would then stop.
Fast forward a few days and then my ac just stopped working. I took it in to get a diagnostic at a registered auto ac establishment and was told my whole ac system was bad, compressor, everything for $3400, to replace. I didn’t have that kind of money, so I replaced everything myself and then ran pressure check to see about 28-29psi in vacuum which is great. Refilled the unit and noticed it didn’t get cold. So, I shot wires and noticed the ac compressor wasn’t getting power.
At that same time, my passenger side rear door started saying “door ajar†and it wasn’t ajar. Figured it was a stuck switch, cleaned it, still says it. Two days later, when I lock the doors with my key FOB, the alarm will start going off five minutes later... I’m currently at Jeep in Alpharetta Georgia and just to look at the problem is costing me over $500. I know this is a known issue now after seeing the hundreds of reports on it. What can we do as consumers for the recurring issue?
- Joseph K., Alpharetta, US