Has the problem listed, but worse it has very bad hesitation. maybe vacuum leak and throttle body? bought at almost 82000 miles, now has 98000. new transmission(they said every part in the transmission was worn), new alternator, new starter(luckily manual so i can roll start it), when i got transmission rebuilt i had to buy new clutch and it got new flywheel, under powertrain warranty but had to pay for clutch, flywheel was under warranty. old clutch wouldnt fit on new fly wheel...... wtf???? they said needed new flywheel cause of the starter gear would grind the flywheel gear. now ever since like 9000 miles ago or so reverse gear grinds, thats new, not even the old transmission would do that. must be bad synchronizer. sometimes stability control will stop working and the light will come on. now has axle problem rear right area has a squeak and some kind of grinding noise. grinding as in sounds like metal plates grinding. took it in 2 times so far, dealership could not find anything wrong, they thought they fixed the problem the 2nd time, but no. they thought it was the brakes, its not the brakes for sure. probably major. so i bought as much warranty i can get on it for another 1600$, thats including refunding the old warranty. so if you dont wanna pay a lot more money for warranty or take it to the shop a lot or pay for partial bill of the rental car or wait for a service loaner from dealer or dont wanna be in the situation im in where you got problems but cant show the dealer the problem, then i suggest you get a toyota or newer honda.
I been having this problem multiple times but I never had the opportunity to take it to the Mechanic and check the problem. I had the same problem yesterday while driving in the Long Island Expressway 6 pm going East (Worst situation ever) I was on the left lane driving around 40 miles an hour when it went to limp mode and I had to try my best to get all the way to the right and turn off my car and turn it back on. Lucky me, phone was dead and I was 30 mins away from home. I turn it back on and drove for 3 mins and then it went back to Limp mode, it happened 6 times until I got Firestone. It will cost me $800 to make this change and I am aware many Mustang owners have the same problem.
Let's do some research, I would like to get my money back.
Similar problem to everybody else, car is running and then begins to cough and sputter with wrench light coming on. Initially coded as MAF sensor four months ago, cleaned, same thing two weeks ago, replaced it same thing again. Got it started and barely made it to dealership. By the time I got to the dealership on the last iteration of this drama the wrench light and the engine light were on.
my wife's mustang will stall out and go into limp mode. the motor will shut down to 15mph and about 600rpm. it's a bad safety issue. Ford has had this same issue with the Fusion and escape models but refuse to acknowledge any problem with the mustangs and it's all over the web!!!!!
- billyga,
Macon, GA, US
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Has the problem listed, but worse it has very bad hesitation. maybe vacuum leak and throttle body? bought at almost 82000 miles, now has 98000. new transmission(they said every part in the transmission was worn), new alternator, new starter(luckily manual so i can roll start it), when i got transmission rebuilt i had to buy new clutch and it got new flywheel, under powertrain warranty but had to pay for clutch, flywheel was under warranty. old clutch wouldnt fit on new fly wheel...... wtf???? they said needed new flywheel cause of the starter gear would grind the flywheel gear. now ever since like 9000 miles ago or so reverse gear grinds, thats new, not even the old transmission would do that. must be bad synchronizer. sometimes stability control will stop working and the light will come on. now has axle problem rear right area has a squeak and some kind of grinding noise. grinding as in sounds like metal plates grinding. took it in 2 times so far, dealership could not find anything wrong, they thought they fixed the problem the 2nd time, but no. they thought it was the brakes, its not the brakes for sure. probably major. so i bought as much warranty i can get on it for another 1600$, thats including refunding the old warranty. so if you dont wanna pay a lot more money for warranty or take it to the shop a lot or pay for partial bill of the rental car or wait for a service loaner from dealer or dont wanna be in the situation im in where you got problems but cant show the dealer the problem, then i suggest you get a toyota or newer honda.
- dark_maximus, Fate, TX, US