9.3

really awful
Typical Repair Cost:
No data
Average Mileage:
93,850 miles
Total Complaints:
3 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (3 reports)
2008 GMC Sierra 1500 electrical problems

electrical problem

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2008 GMC Sierra 1500 Owner Comments

problem #3

Dec 282018

Sierra 1500 LS 4.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 158,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Need help with this problem, lights flash, will not start until light stop flashing.

- Richard C., Manchester, US

problem #2

Jul 172017

Sierra 1500 Denali 6.0L V8

  • Automatic transmission
  • 90,401 miles

This problem has actually happened several times but I don't remember the days or months. I bought the truck used in Feb 2016, it is currently July 2017. I believe this is the 5th occurrence in the time I have had this truck. I turn the key, everything in the dash comes on as do the headlights. But nothing happens when the key is turned to start. No click, no groan, no hiss, no clatter. The first time, about 10 minutes later, the truck started. Next time it took about 30 minutes. Next time over an hour. That time I had it towed to the Chevy dealer and when they got to it the next morning, it started right up. Then yesterday it would not start. I let it sit until this morning and still it doesn't start. Chevy seems to have no idea what the issue is so I have gone to this complaint log letting others know the one posted prior to me is not the only one. Unfortunately, I love this truck but it may have to go if I can't depend on it.

- bgx383mj, Somerset, US

problem #1

Mar 102009

Sierra 1500 SLE II 5.3L V8

  • Automatic transmission
  • 33,000 miles

The "NO CRANK PROBLEM" (that dealerships claim "we've never heard of this before") has become VERY OBVIOUS that the likelihood of G.M. being UNAWARE of REPEATED issues arising from their different types of security systems is IMPOSSIBLE. My problem started 2 years after I bought the vehicle (Brand New) while it was still under component warranty, but I had no idea at the time that it was a component problem. I thought it was the battery. Had it pulled to a mechanic down the road and he scanned it. No codes popped up, he checked the battery, tried jumping it...nothing. He then said he will disconnect the battery for a few minutes to "Let the computer reset" which of course I now know he did'nt know what he was talking about. But low and behold it fired right up after reconnecting the battery. This problem did not reoccur for quite some time afterwards. When the problem would reappear, I disconnected the battery and reconnected the battery and it would fire right up. Of course by now the component warranty has expired and the problem is getting more consistent to the point where I am having to disconnect and reconnect multiple times before it will Crank. Finally went to Car Quest and got the battery Load Tested and the Parts Guy said it looked fine to him 746 Amps/12.73 Volts. Well I said I better go ahead and buy a new one anyhow since the one in my truck is now 4 Years old. Brought the new battery home with me and installed. Truck still will not crank "Brand New $130 battery" HMMM I guess it NEVER WAS THE BATTERY AFTER ALL. Began digging out fuses, relays, looking for a bad one. Checked multiple wiring connections looking for a bad one. Nothing apparent WITHOUT GUTTING MY ENTIRE TRUCK TO THE GROUND. Started reading online blogs and WWWWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not just from this website but from many other forums, I was so very pleased and SICK to my stomache at the same time to see how long this problem has been around and how I have yet to see that NOONE HAS ACTUALLY BEEN ABLE TO POINT TO ONE THING IN PARTICULAR AND SAY "OH THE MECHANIC FOUND IT TO BE THIS AND THE PROBLEM HAS NOT REOCCURED IN 2 YEARS. I reluctantly brought it to the dealer where I bought my new truck because I have been reading about all of the PARTS SWAPPING SCAMS they have been running across the country, to have customers spend upwards of $2000 changing out components and not FULLY FIXING THE PROBLEM. So the mechanic plugged in his expensive computer to my truck and cleared all of my codes but could not clear my ALARM CODE. He said the computer is saying NOT COMMUNICATING. He then proceeded to tell me that I would have to check my truck into the shop, but that he would need $150 UP FRONT JUST TO LOOK AT IT! I swear if I read one more blog about the RELEARN PROCEDURE (Which I have attempted on numerous occasions to the T and has worked a FEW times, but the Security Light Keeps Reappearing) or how PASSKEY III works I will lose my freaking mind. SOMEONE OUT THERE KNOWS WHAT PART IS THE "MOST COMMON" THAT FAILS IN THIS HORRIBLE LOOP so that maybe I can CHEAT GM out of their PRECIOUS PARTS MONEY they have been boosting profits with for years now. I can only wonder how many people are out there STRUGGLING with this INCONVIENIENCE that are getting reamed out at their local dealer that have not posted a complaint or blogged about this problem. I know it is happening to many more than you will see on the internet. I can name a few that I know personally, but I have only recently started digging into this problem. So I can imagine how many more I will know in the weeks to come. If you are reading this because you are having the same problem, Please take a few minutes to fill out a complaint. It may be the only way to get some money loving lawyer's juices flowing. Or perhaps an honest mechanic that has nothing to gain but the good feeling of helping out a frustrated motorist. BYPASS MY *UCKING SECURITY SYSTEM GM. I DONT WANT IT. IF IT GETS STOLEN, THATS WHAT I HAVE FULL COVERAGE INSURANCE FOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

- bprice1974, Abbeville, LA, US

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