This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
There are text messages on my radio screen and extremely loud popping from the antenna and in the vehicle. This is startling and distracting and I have almost plowed into other vehicles when it occurs because it sounds like a gunshot. The car was involved in an accident rear ended in 2018 so I don't discount there isn't an underlying electrical problem. I paid for a new antenna and the problem still present. The dealership states the issue cannot be resolved and the car should have been salvaged post accident due to the lengthy process of trying to detect an electrical issue. The insurer has not addressed the problem. I'm asking now, for the government to assist. Thank you very much.
I was going down a city street going about 35 or 40 and all of a sudden the car just shut down I lost power steering off brakes I was able to turn into a parking lot and before that I had kind of thought that it it wasn't really feeling like it wanted to go.
- Westlake, LA, USA
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My front and passenger driver's side doors have had the locking mechanism/actuator cables detach and break. Requiring me to have a mechanic forcefully open the doors and then replace the internal locking assembly and cables at a cost of over $800 per door. One door cable broke in the summer of 2019 and the second door, the drivers door, just broke this Friday 2/21/2020. This is a huge safety hazard and is known to happen in this vehicle after warranty is out. If this happened without someone knowing they wouldn't be able to open their door. I work with uber and lyft as a second job as well and cannot have this type of mechanical issue.
While on the highway in motion, car stalled warning. All lights on the dashboard came on. Could not brake. Could not shift car out of drive. Could not turn the car off. Had to engage emergency brake.
The car is struggling to shift gears from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. So if I don't come to a complete stop the car stalls and slows down while in motion due to the struggle of changing gears.
After parking car and turning the car off, key would not release, key stuck in ignition, key works fine, car drive fine, however unable to remove key from ignition. ( key will not turn pass accessory. Car shifts gears, steering wheel will not lock, key cannot be removed. I had to un plug the fuse to radio/ assessories to remove/release key.
The dashboard on the passenger side has developed two large cracks. It appears to be over the airbag. My concern is that it may damage the underlying airbag since it is now exposed to the "elements", sunlight, cleaning solutions etc.
El vehiculo Sonata 2013 tiene 134,000 millas Y esta gastando 1 cuarto de aceite por cada 600 millas. Entiendo que ES un problema de fabrica ya que no ES normal que un vehiculo nuevo este gastando esta cantidad de aceite para ese millaje. Varios mecanicos me han dicho lo mismo. Que no ES normal para un vehiculo nuevo. Practicamente. Tiene todos los cambios de aceite Y filtro cada 3000 millas Y todos los mantenimientos al dia. Seria bueno que verificaran ya que el vehiculo no ha dado problemas de nada anteriormente, except la gastaera de aceite que le estoy presentando actualmente. El vehiculo lo utilize diariamente para mi trabajo Y nunca me ha dado problemas.
The top of the dashboard cracked about 18 inches. Our Hyundai service rep said it was caused by the airbags under the dashboard expanding from the heat. Hyundai should replace the dashboard, obviously made of faulty material. Our rep said it would cost us $1,000. I'm afraid that airbags will crack it completely in half and then the car would not be drivable.
I was driving my car home from work and all of a sudden my car jerked and the RPM guage went to zero and the air conditioner stopped and the loss of traction light came on upon killing the car and restarting it it drove fine with no problem. Took it to dealer to inspect and to check and fix recalls and was told that they changed the oil for the recall on my vehichle and they could not find anything wrong with car since it was not acting up at that time. Week later it done it again and took to dealership to check and was told it came with code for crankshaft sensor and 10 minutes later was told that was not the problem it was a faulty ECM and replaced it. A week later done the exact same thing and they could not find anything wrong after keeping it for a month. Took the car to another auto mechanic and was told they could not figure out what was wrong with car unless it was acting up. Now here I am driving a car that will act up occasionally and now it seems that it getting worse when I stopped and started up a hill it sounded like metal on metal clanging and have very suspicious feeling it has something to do with the gdi engine recall but cant get anyone to figure out what it is since it's so hard to drive a car acting up in city limits when it does not want to go unless you got the gas pedal to the floor. Unsure if it is recall or something else and dealership dont know how to fix
Car sometimes looses power. When pressing on the gas peddle from being stationary we have to press all the way to the floor before the car will slowly accelerate. When breaking and the speed gets between 40-30 mph the car bucks. The car does not have any codes.
I have owned my 2013 Hyundai Sonata for 4 years and I have had to change the brake light bulbs 2- 3 times each year. In March of 2019 I spent $197 for new brake light bulbs. It is now August of 2019 and all of my lights are out, even the top light. My mechanic has confirmed that these vehicles have constant issue involving blown light bulbs. He could not find a recall on it. I have spoken with other Hyundai Sonata and elantra owners and they are having the same issue.
"takata recall" when putting the car in park the key is stuck in the ignition and wont come out will have to drive around for a couple of minutes. This have happened several times
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Oklahoma City, OK, USA