This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I bought a 2007 ford Taurus SEL from a dealership Oct,2020 3 months after having we pulling up to a stop light and it was like the car wanted to take off by it's self and then when the light turned green we started to drive and it just shut off in the middle of traffic we had to get out and push it to the side almost got hit by the car behind us and the on coming cars I've had it serviced for tune and oil changes fuil system flush everything and they can never find anything wrong with it but a miscellaneous leak that they can not find where it's coming from and now we'll first in Sept we came home one day ate dinner then we were going to go to movies we got in the car and the car would not start the alarm sound then everything went dim and auto theft blinked and car shut off we tried starting it it would not start finally got a jump it started and a little bit and then in on November 3rd we went to leave again and it would not start it was making a ticking sound then we had to get a jump and it start and we got in the car left got around the corner then all the lights on dash board like flashed and everything went dark and car shut off had to get it jumped it started but lights never came back on and so we took it to shop next day told them what happened they could not find nothing wrong and then December 15 same thing and then long story short we had it hooked up to machine and they said something about ptu at the shop I don't know what's going on I did some research of my own and there seems to be alot of simulator issues with other people's Taurus as well
Basically I was driving and stopped and my house and while in ideal the wiring under the hood and under the fender into the dash all started to melt together shorting the systems so I tried to repair and replace the parts due to being a used vehicle and didn't know how to report this until now. So I cut the melted chunk of wiring harnesses out and trashed it. But I stopped due to the inability to find any replacement harnesses from Ford or mercury so now my car has been sitting for several months. I have only been able to find melted harnesses on junk yard cars. Ford used poor quality 16 gauge wiring that the outer coating became brittle and easily frayed. Every wiring harness I've seen has bad spots from wires melting or breaking and corroding. I'm my case the wiring melted causing the cooling system to stop working properly and almost damaged or may have damaged my engine. I don't have full coverage so I am forced to park it and do what I can myself which has made me lose my job and ruined my life. Please do look into this I'm sure more people have the same issue just check a junk yard and you'll see what I mean. Thank you for your time I will try to provide any further information or help if needed anyway I can to make sure someone doesn't get hurt.
Takata recall I was driving 60mph and tried to set cruise control and took for off gas ABS the car kept accelerating fast. About 80mph I tapped the brake, cruise control light turned off and car kept accelerating and rpms were in the red. I pushed as hard as I could on the brakes and car kept accelerating past 85mph and I was now coming into 30mph zone and rpms were high and I tried to put it in neutral cause I didn't know what to do. The engine revved completely up with rpms and I finally just threw it in park in road and turned car off and called insurance for tow truck. My son said I had burnt my brakes.. unsure other than there was smoke from someplace under car. I got down and visually and looked for gas pedal to be stuck or anything and it was normal. Tried starting car and immediately turned it back off due to rpms in red. Happened 3 seperate times but mechanic never found anything wrong or what it was so my dad disconnected the cruise control wires or something with cruise control. Car idles now high and rpms run higher than normal. Nobody knows what to fix so I don't know what to fix.
- Howard Lake, MN, USA
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Takata recall, moonroof stopped closing one day. It has to manually be shut if opened so we don't use it. It makes loud clicking noise. The fuse for GEM 5A started having issue. Fuse is never blown. But to open or close windows, the fuse would need to be pulled out and put back in with door open. The windshield washer fluid sprayer works randomly. Mechanic checked motor, tubes, etc and can't find anything that needs to be fixed or that would make it work when it wants too. This has all been an ongoing issue and sometimes boot an issue for about 2 years now. First occurrence, two years ago in 2016 and last occurrence was 2 weeks ago in 2018
This car died twice as my wife was driving home yesterday. No warning. It was running well since buying it a month ago, and is well maintained with 105K miles on it. It first died 500 yards from home, and died again as she parked in the driveway. This shuts down power steering and becomes very difficult to steer. It restarted when shifted to neutral or park. We have researched and found other people with the same problem. Some dying at 70 mph on highways with no warning. Sporadic dying up to 5 times daily or months between incidents. Cars have been taken to mechanics and dealers, none of whom have correctly diagnosed/fixed the problem. This is extremely dangerous and should be investigated with all due haste! thank you.
I was driving and started to break coming up to a red light. The car did slow down but I could feel from my foot on the break pedal, a vibration and the car engine started making a rumbling sound, like it was "revving" in high gear. I took my foot slightly off the break and the car accelerated forward on its own. I pulled into a parking lot and was able to park and take out the keys. It was towed to a Ford dealership. They said the speed control cable is broken.
I have a water leak on my passanger side floor which shorted out my heater blower I had noticed the leak it happened tonight while I was driving then when I turned on my heat the blower stopped working.
The contact owns a 2007 Ford Taurus. While driving approximately 65 mph, the ABS and brake lights remained illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure was not repaired. The failure mileage was 142,652.
Floor behind glove box is getting wet when the car is parked and sits in the rain. Must be coming in the hood or windshield. Multiple reports on line about the cowl over cabin air filer. Or a rain hat extension. Causing A/C motor to go out now because of the water coming in continually. Cant seem to get the problem solved on our 2007. Hoping water leak does not cause a fire if it keeps coming on the way it had been.
While driving at night on my way home I seen a flash on the mileage screen and then it became blank now nothing appears on the mileage. Ford claims it will be about $900 to fix it.
Vehicle rough started and was surging and died in the lane of a two lane busy road, had to manually steer the vehicle off the busy road into a driveway until help arrived. Vehicle would not restart for about 30 minutes. The key was then cycled 3 times and the car started. Incident #2 11/25/2013, same scenario, would not start for about 15 minutes when key was recycled 3 times the third or fourth time.
I was driving down a road at 45 mph and the electrical system went off. The automatic locks started locking and unlocking, the dash lights, alarm system, air bag, check engine, came on and the speedometer and the tachometer went to zero even though I was moving. I brought it to a mechanic and they could find nothing. It has happened repeatedly since then, the latest going 65 mph on a four lane highway in heavy traffic. The engine cuts out as well, but the blinking lights make me think it's electrical. It's ridiculously dangerous.
I have already had the throttle body replaced 3 times on my vehicle. It lope, headlights dim/bright, and jutts. Also slight unexplained acceleration occurs, and occasional hesitation on acceleration. Fuel filter replaced, fuel pump checked out working properly, and injectors are running fine. Also alternator checked out good, new spark plugs, wires working fine, new battery. Mechanic cannot find anything wrong with the car, but it runs terribly. It`S loped since around 60K miles, and seems to be steadily getting worse. Also on third radiator. A friend told me it could be the ac getting low or charging, or possible iac motor going out, but there`S no real good way of testing it. Dealers keep telling me they won`T fix unless it`S for sure broken. Will take till I`M stranded till a mechanic will fix the problem.
The engine idle speed would surge after a cold start. A mechanic cleaned the thottle body. This seemed to help the surging problem, but then the car would start to accelerate for no apparent reason. To stop the vehicle from accelerating, it was necessary to shift into neutral & pump the gas pedal several times. After this happened a couple of times I had the idle control module replaced. For a while the vehicle ran ok, then it started to accelerate again for no reason. While it was accelerating, I shifted to neutral and pulled to the side of the road. Turned the engine off and then on again and it revved up to 4000 RPM. Looking around the throttle body, I found a cable disconnected from the lower part of the throttle body. This cable went to a box near the firewall which I assume to be the cruise controller. I reconnected the cable at the throttle body and have not any problems since then. However, I am amazed at how easy it is to disconnect the cable from the throttle body. It probably became disconnected when the mechanic cleaned the throttle body.
I had driven my car in the am and it would not start in the afternoon. I called for a tow on Monday, after the holiday. The symptoms presented at the time of failure were: The car did not start, and the anti-theft light was blinking. The car was jumped and the vehicle was brought in for service. The dealership could not find any problems. Today, the car stopped working again, same issues. This time I did not allow the car to be jumped. Instead, it was towed to the dealer who was able to run a better diagnostic which appeared to be the alternator, but it could also be the computer. In researching the issue on my own, this seems to be a major problem with Ford cars and has been for years. Some were driving when the car just 'shut down. The following are just a few of the complaints that I've found. www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php"F=37&T=13438&P=101835#P101835 townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.F110E23townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.F110E23 www.Ford-forums.com/engine-drivetrain/2000-Ford-Taurus-car-wont-start-anti-theft-device-blinks-T31244.htmltownhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.F110E23townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.F0ce673/204#msg204 townhall-talk.edmunds.com/webx?229@@.F0ce673/204 answers.yahoo.com/question/index"qid=20070823101809aaeoyae www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Taurus/2002/engine/engine_fails_to_start_when_warm.shtm. please note, one report on one website has had over 600 views. This is a serious issue that has gone on for quite some time and Ford needs to fix it. Thank you for your time! sincerely, [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
The contact owns a 2007 Ford Taurus. The contact stated that a warning chime sounded and the check charging system warning indicator was illuminated. The dealer was unable to provide a cause for the failure and the vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but did not assist the contact with the failure. The failure mileage was 50,000 and the current mileage was 78,000. Updated 8/29/11 the consumer was informed the alternator was replaced and the light has remained off. The torque converter was replaced twice. Updated 09/26/11
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- West Sacramento , CA, USA