This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Placing car in park and attempt to remove key. Key remains locked in ignition. Car remains in the ON position with steering wheel NOT locked and radio/lights ON. I must re-start the car, put in drive, rock gear shift and slam back into Park. This procedure eeds to be repeated until the key can be removed. It is occurring with increasing frequency, at least once per day at this point.
The ignition key becomes stuck in the ignition upon stopping the vehicle and placing the gear shifter into "park" and turning the vehicle off. Intermittently the key is unable to be removed from the ignition even though the vehicle is in the "park" position and turned off. Usually after starting and stopping the vehicle and moving the gear shift a few times the key can be removed from the ignition. This problem does not occur every time the vehicle is driven, but lately it is happening more frequently.
The windshield was hit by a small rock while driving on a highway at 65 mph. The rock caused a crack less than a millimeter in diameter. After continuing to drive the vehicle on highways and paved streets for 4 more hours, the small crack expanded to be approximately a foot going across the windshield from the passenger side to the middle of the windshield.
The key gets stuck in the ACC selection mode when trying to turn the car off. It will not turn all the way back to turn off the electrical or allow the key to be removed. this has been happening often for a few weeks.
We were driving along the highway when the windshield began to crack at the edge of the driver's side. We parked the car and went shopping for an hour. When we came back, the crack had doubled in length. I see, and know, there are issues with the windshield for this model year (a friend of mine had his replaced for free a couple of years ago). Need to get on that list.
I have had multiple issues over the years with the battery 2017 Subaru Outback keeping a charge and I have required a jump multiple times. My latest issue is over the last 3-4 months I have required a jump and while researching the issue, I came across Chimicles action lawsuit for the same problem I've been having. Please include my information in any database where information is being collected. Feel free to reach out to me if more information is needed.
Battery has fully drained at least five times. Took it to dealer and they "found nothing". I have purchased a mobi power cell for jumping this Outback.
Rear backup camera remains on after shifting from reverse to drive. Screen has severe burn in with "Z" pattern across entire display. Making it un-viewable.
My new battery was drained to a point the vehicle would not start. I messaged some bible study friends and one was going to come over and jump my vehicle. While waiting I put the car in neutral and pushed it out of my garage into the driveway. The driveway is on a steep slope. Once in the driveway I tried putting the car into park, it would not go into park. In fact it would only go into drive which did not stop the vehicle from rolling backwards. I tried the emergency brake but it is electrically operated and did not work. The brakes were very hard to hold since the hydraulics were not kicking in, same with the power steering. I am a big strong guy so I wrestled the car to turn it diagonally in the driveway as it rolled backwards, trying to prevent it from going into the street and flying into someone's house or vehicle. Once diagonal in the driveway I threw a padlock under the front tire from the drivers seat with my foot on the brake to prevent it from rolling back. At this point it was barely held but stationary so I got out, chalked the wheels with 2X4's until by bible study friends came over and jumped my car. I did not have my cell phone and no one else was around to help me. I litterally thought I was going to have to just let my car roll down into the street and let it go because I had no other options. I called Subaru of America and they directed me to a youtube video that shows once the battery completely dies, there is a special tool you need in order to get the car in and out of park. But it doesn't tell you that if the car won't start and there is enough power to get it into reverse, don't do it without the tool. What if this happened in the mountains or san francisco or any hilly or mountainous location? I believe this is a high potential for life threating injury or loss of property. E-brakes should not be electric in my opinion.
The data control module failed after only 30,000 miles. It's a 2017 Subaru Outback and because of not driving last year (2020), the 3 year warranty was no longer in effect. We are paying $1500, for a failed part (data control module) that caused two consecutive batteries to drain. The car will not start without jumping it.
I believe all of the following circumstances to be caused by an electrical problem: Dec.31, 2020: Car hesitates to start. It never turns over so it does not ever start. We install new battery & car starts. Mid-Jan.2021: Car won't start from push start, but does start when I use my remote start key fob. After that, car starts with push start. Feb.-April 2021: Car has a several times when it hestitates to start, but ultimately it does start. May 1-3 2021: Car hesitates to start, but ultimately starts. May 4-5 2021: Car not only hesitates to start, but now I have all kinds of lights lit up on my dash, including check engine, eyesight, X-mode light is flashing, and several others that I cannot get to turn off. In all instances, vehicle was stationary and turned off. I have photos & video but can't seem to reduce file size to required 5mb. Side note: Unless I am at work or running errands, my car is always in the garage.
2017 Outback. Unable to remove the key from the ignition. Once in park turning the steering wheel back and forth doesn't help to release the key. Moved gear shift multiple directions until eventually the key was removed. The key isn't particularly worn.
Vehicle design safety defect: After locking doors while seated in vehicle must select unlock to exit vehicle. In an emergency safety dictates that pulling door open lever would open door in one action.
I recently started having issues with removing my key from the ignition. I could remove it most of the time after multiple attempts and messing with the shifter and steering wheel etc. But there was at least one time that I had an appointment and could not after 10 minutes, remove the key. I had to leave the key in the ignition with the car in the partially "on" setting. I took this into Subaru dealership to get it fixed on 25mar2021. I discovered that this is a known issue, but that Subaru decided it wasn't a safety issue. I had to pay about $500 to repair this issue. I beg to differ that this is a safety issue. Leaving the keys in the ignition because I could not remove them is a safety issue because 1) an un-licensed driver or youngster could have gotten in the car and started driving it; or 2) a criminal could have gotten in the car and waited for me to return with malicious intentions and 3) or the car could have simply been stolen. I also contacted my insurance rep and found out that if a car is stolen with the key in the ignition, that this would be a non covered claim. Even if it was physically impossible for me to remove the keys.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Hainesport, NJ, USA