This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I purchase this car in 2017 apprentices 2017 Cruze at the time it only have four thousand miles it has 80,000 MI it was a fuel injector pump replaced next to the engine at everybody there knew that the car was defective due to the fact that they have several men that don't know what they're doing and working on these cars are unprofessional workers and everybody here knows that they keep repairing cars and they need to send them back to the manufacturer for DFCS and numerous problems they said everybody here got nothing but junk cars and they need help to replace them immediately in this car the cruise and the Malibu the odometer kept sticking and going bad and they did replace it once and then they replaced it again and they left the park open in the vehicle you always have to get so many oil changes with this and then the one-time the Auto stop feature had got stuck on a train track and it was very hard to get that car off we had got frightened and had jumped off the car over here in Milwaukee off of 2nd street or 1st Street we're trying to report whatever we can so I can get a replacement vehicle or sometimes the rear camera was defective to it didn't always come on right away
The car shut down in the middle of the highway which made me pull to the side and not so long after this incident the brakes stopped working for some time causing me to crash.
I should have filed a complaint here after the catastrophic failure. The next time I may not be so lucky and it could cause loss of life. I was driving at approx. 65 MPH on the frwy when bang! An explosion under my hood that caused my car to jump over a lane, I slammed on the breaks, swerved but couldn't push the brake pedal down anymore. It felt hard and would barely move. i had no way to slowdown or stop! And traffic infront of me was slowing fast. I put all my weight on that pedal even tried pumping it, but it would only move alittle. Luckily the car in front sped up just enough for me to swerve onto the shoulder. As I slowed i could depress pedal alittle if I stood up on it out of my seat but stopping distance was like 15ft while maybe going 15 mph. This all happened in a matter of minutes i still dont know how I was able to avoid an accident. The engine sounded really rough. So I called the dealership they said to bring the car in. I had already spoke. With them that week due to traction control system and transmission causing instability and brake issues. I was mortified when I found out what happened I had cracked 2 pistons & the force was so strong it blew thru the membrane that seperates the break system, got oil in my break lines! This is a new car! Dealership said it was a known issue & GM determinedtitle was a design flaw. I had 2 pistons replaced and my break system flushed my car has never been the same. There's always something little and intermitten still with the transmission & Now the engine jumps while idling and stopped in drive it jumps so hard the car jumps fwd, feels like ill hit whats in front of me. I lost significant value at only 26,290 miles, i cant afford to trade it in on disability, covid turned into long haul covid, no affordable extended warranty. I have no piece of mind in a car I dont feel safe in. What happens when the pistons fail they didnt fix. How many injuries or lives must be sacrificed before they do something.
Car has a lot of difficulty accelerating even when pressing on the gas all the way to start to go. Car rolls back when stopped. Brakes sometimes aren-€™t working as they should. Car isn-€™t breaking properly. Doesn-€™t stop all the way sometimes. When driving the car also, burning smell comes from under the hood after stopping the car. Please help!
At only 30,682 miles my 2017 Chevrolet Cruze suffered extensive failure in the braking system. This was first indicated by a low brake fluid warning. Initially I added brake fluid but warning returned two weeks later along with noticeable travel in the brake pedal. On February 22 the dealership found leaks at all four wheel calipers and rusted and grooved scratches on rotors. The car had been serviced only at this dealership and thus far had only routine maintenance along with replacement of two O2 sensors under warranty. Having lost confidence in GM I had a second opinion to confirm and repair done elsewhere for $2,293.18.
- Westerville , OH, USA
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I was going in to a turning lane and as I was about to press the brake, I see a service brake assist system and I go to press the brakes and the brakes make a clicking sound and the car would not stop forcing me to take the car off the road onto the grass to avoid hitting the car in front of me. I restarted the vehicle and the brakes began working fine.
The contact owns a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated while driving 60 mph, the brake pedal had to forcefully be depressed with both feet to slow the vehicle down while coming to a stop. The contact stated that the brake assist warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact towed the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with needing the brake assist vacuum pump to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but experienced the failure a second time. The contact took the vehicle back to the local dealer. The vehicle was not repaired. The repair was pending. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
Cylinder 1 experienced cracking due to Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI, commonly referred to as -€œKnock-€) just after exiting the highway in a 70 mph zone and produced a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) code of P0301. As evidenced in Attachment 1, this caused damage to the Antilock Braking System due to loss of vacuum on the system and possible fouling due to foreign object damage to the vehicle ABS. Later assessment by trained mechanics determined the root cause was due to insufficient structural capability of engine pistons to withstand brief periods of LSPI. As evidenced by attachment 18-NA-171 and PIP5490, the vehicle manufacturer (General Motors) is aware of the insufficient design of the pistons, has re-designed them to withstand LSPI, however has not made an effort to notify me or replace the existing part to prevent damage to the vehicle powertrain and ABS. While this particular instance of piston cracking due to LSPI has only had a financial impact on myself, loss of ABS functionality and potential engine seizure at highway speeds have the potential to produce dangerous, if not fatal, conditions to other drivers with similar hardware.
Brake pedal sinks slowly to floor and brakes require a stronger shove to activate. This happened several times on first drive after car was stationary. Seems normal after that at this time. Car has a manual transmission which shares a clutch & brake fluid system. Car has already had clutch system repaired due to fluid leak and debris from clutch release component. European recall of similar model includes replacing brake components as well as clutch components.
Vehicles comes with a engine stop on/off that can't be turned off. What this does is that it 'turns off' the engine when idling to save gas. What happens is that this engages even before brake pressure hits 100%. so when in an uphill or downhill and coming to a stop the car tends to shut down when it reaches low speeds. However, when this happens the car starts rolling and you can't steer correctly because power steering is turned off. This creates a safety hazard because it engages before pressure is 100% causing the car to shut down early and you start rolling unexpectedly without any power steering. Vehicle was approaching a red light in a slight uphill. Car rolled from :34-:50 seconds backward. I re gained control of NY car once I let go completely off my brake(this causes the auto stop on/off to disengage)
With less than 25,000 miles on this leased vehicle all four brake rotors were rusted to the point of deterioration and chipping. The rust was so thick and rough that it was grinding away the pads with stopping ability seriously diminished. One rear brake pad was ground down to the metal surface. The dealer would not warranty the rotors as brakes are considered normal vehicle maintenance. In fact, I was told by the service manager that an equinox was in his shop with the same problem. That vehicle's mileage was 19,000. The condition of these rotors was anything but normal, as though they were manufactured using a poor quality and /or porous material. On average vehicle rotors last up to 50,000 miles and through two sets of brake pads. My claim is that these severely rusted rotors are a safety issue due to the diminished stopping ability, compared to the smooth surface a rotor is intended to maintain.
I received a waiting notification stating 'service braking system' while I was driving on the freeway and then my cars brake pedal began to stick and vibrate while there being nothing wrong with the pads. Rotors, brake lines, or brake fluid. It could've caused me to get into an accident and hurt others or myself due to this faulty brake system.
First the car shaked while we were waiting at a traffic light on a city street. Then we went to drive into a tunnel and I could not accelerate, we had to roll down the hill to keep moving. Then the brakes would not work properly. The car said service brake assist, I had to step very hard on the brake pedal repeatedly to try to stop the car from hitting the car in front of us. Once we stopped again the car seemed like it had died. I tried to accelerate by stepping fully on the pedal and nothing. Then I put the car in park and tried to turn off the car but that did not work either. It was not until the 3rd time of trying to turn the car off that the vehicle actually turned off. We were able to turn the car back on and at first nothing happened, but then the car started to work again. We found on google that I should not let the car go back into auto-stop in the hope that this would not occur again since we were getting on interstate 95.
Issue> ebrake warning light on I was driving down the road and about 20 miles into my drive the system alerted me of the parking brake or E brake needed to be released. I have not used this brake, but I stop press it all the way in and press again to release. Start driving and lime 100ft it dings alerting me again. I press the check button and the warning and brake light go away.. this has been happening for last 5 miles. Going to get it checked first thing.
The contact owns a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that the high mount brake lamp failed without warning. The vehicle was taken to buchanan automotive Inc (1035 E main St, waynesboro, pa) where it was diagnosed that the washers would need to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and was provided case number: 8-3724651728. The failure mileage was approximately 59,238.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Milwaukee, WI, USA