This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The airbag light on the instrument panel will randomly illuminate and ding as if the airbag has failed. This happens at random and under no specific circumstances while driving on the road. This concerns me for the fact I fear the air bags will not deploy if an accident occurs.
Car stalls for no apparent reason. 1 or 2 times a week. Typically when going slow speeds or coming to a stop. No engine light comes on. Only the traction light which is not applicable. As it is dry and sunny. Some electrical works off and an. Front led panel slightly fades in an out. Fan motor (like A/C fan) goes high and low speeds. Mainly the engine just shuts off without warning, so it is unsafe to drive. I used regular key instead of key fob and push bottom and still does it. Took it in to dealership and they wanted to charge me $850 for a new alternator but they said "try that first", so they were not sure. Took it in somewhere else and they said they couldn't find a problem. Needed a light to come on first. Meanwhile I'm driving a car that is unsafe to drive Chrysler.
The contact owns a 2014 Chrysler Town and country. While driving approximately 45 mph, the windshield wipers activated independently, the vehicle independently decelerated, and the blind spot protection unavailable warning indicator illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated that the failure recurred four times. The manufacturer and dealer were not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000.
Driving down the road and vehicle completely shutdown, no power steering, little braking, no lights on display. This would happen randomly with no engine light warnings. Happens multiple times. Once shutdown in middle of major intersection and it would not start up, would try to turn over. It also seems to happen around 35-45 mph and coming to a stop. Took it to dealership hooked it up on computer no engine light or sensor triped and while it was idling car shutdown asked service manager to check about a recall on 2011 vehicles (P54) but they said no recall. I take it to work every day less then a mile away and car has shutdown on me twice. Afraid to drive it any distance
I was driving about 45 mph on a main roadway in Ohio while on vacation. Suddenly, the vehicle went completely dead and stalled. All displays went black. I had no steering and limited braking ability. I was able to leave the roadway safely. Then, I put the vehicle in park. I was able to restart the vehicle, and drive back to our vacation home without issue.
- Glen Arm, MD, USA
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Defogger inefficient and unsafe when raining in summer caused by known problem with A/C heat blend door sticking. Ac on one side high heat on other..condensation forms on inside while driving on highway. Fca fixing for free on some 2014 -2105 models but not all even though same issue reported and same parts (identical part numbers) involved on same vehicle in same time frame.
While my wife and children were making a left-hand turn in the far left lane the van completely went dead. They lost all power to the engine, lost all power steering, lost all ability to accelerate, and lost all ability to break. The car traveled across both lanes and luckily into a shopping center turn lane, where they applied the emergency brake to come to a stop. Landscapers saw what happened and were able to push the car into the parking lot. The dashboard stayed lit and the ac fan continued to blow. It's almost as if the battery was still on, but they had no mechanical functions. We had the van taken to tequesta tire co where they did a full inspection. After a full inspection, they determined the problem to be a possible "fluke". after additional research online, this appears to be a wider issue with other T&C owners. Other owners say they have not found the cause of the issue and spend a significant amount of money with no resolution or cause.
Driver side sliding door will not open from inside or out. Just stopped working on its own. Automatic button won't open it from drivers door or from buttons on remote.
While in motion on a city street, my instrument cluster panel lit up, windshield wipers turned on and couldn't be turned off, turn signals stopped working, as well as the speedometer, odometer, temperature gadge, radio, and heating/cooling system. The vehicle still drives, but is not safe to be on the road due to no speedometer and turn signals. Also, my driver side window was rolled down and is now stuck in the downward position
The van shuts off while driving, tonight I was traveling and as I started de acceleration for a stop light the van shut off and I lost power steering and breaks. Thisncoukdve been very bad especially if I had my kids in the car.
While driving the vehicle dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and the engine completely shut off locking the wheel. After taking it to the dealership they found nothing wrong. About a month later we were driving home from a soccer game and the car came out of gear while driving about 70 mph. The RPM shot up and I was unable to drive over 40 mph. We ended up staying the night and having the car towed to the dealership. They replaced the sensor solenoid pac. 6 months later I was driving home from a soccer tournament and the same exact thing happened again however I had slowed the vehicle down driving through a residential area and went to speed up after re-entering the highway. The RPM's were at 4 to 5 going 30 mph. I pulled over turned off the car and let it sit for 5 minutes. I was able to drive normally after that, then the check engine light came on. I took the vehicle to the dealership and they said there is nothing the could do. Stored codes ECU: ABS dtc: C212A16 description: Stored- system voltage-circuit voltage below threshold; ECU: PCM dtc: P075A description: Lc solenoid circuit ECU: Dmfl/dmfr dtc: B21A1 description: Stored- ECU reset/recovery occurred. I have 71,000 miles on the engine and it's under warranty for 13 months more or 28,000 miles. Please help!
The cable on the drivers side window keeps breaking. It's been replaced twice. The first time the window fell and busted in the door. The 2nd time it did not break but I heard the cable snap in the door.
The 'no fuse' indicator comes on at random times. It may stay on for months at a time and sometimes will just fluctuate between the odometer and no fuse indication. Everything electrical still works while the no fuse indication is on. The fuse has been changed to no avail. This happens whether the vehicle is moving or stationary. Presently it is parked. When door is opened the no fuse indicator comes on. While at Firestone today getting the tires rotated, the service writer said he has seen this on numerous Town and country vans.
When the vehicle is running and put into park or has been in park idling, the electrical system (and engine) intermittently (once a month) shuts down and the vehicle needs to be re-started. The climate control fan level resets to full blast, temperature setting resets, and the clock resets to 12:00. So far this hasn't happened with the vehicle in drive.
While I was waiting to pick up someone on a school parking lot (being parked, and engine was on), I suddenly heard very(!!) loud, several thunder-like or shot-gun sounds. As I rolled down the driver's side window, I heard again that same sounds and the sound is then accompanied as if a window was grinded. The window didn't come up so I assumed it was broken into pieces. According to body shop, the regulator for the window is broken while the window glass is perfectly fine. Also, I was recommended to talk to Chrysler rep for possible recall. The Chrysler dealer shop indicated there was no recall for my van's VIN. It's so strange that there is no recall on this so I was looking at this website, and found that there was a very similar situation like mine for Chrysler Town and country van (recall # P25). I paid $360 out of pocket to change a regulator, and please investigate further.
Every trouble light on the instrument panel came on. There is no power to the interior of the vehicle. It's possible the engine could shut off while driving the van. The problem started on 10/6/2018. The vehicle was towed to the dealer. The dealer could not resolve the problem and had a 3rd party replace the fuse box. This did not resolve the issue. The battery was then replaced. This did not resolve the issue. All trouble lights on the instrument cluster are illuminated (Inc - charging system, oil pressure, anti-lock brakes, air bag, electronic throttle control, tire pressure, engine temperature, seat belt, brake, engine malfunction indicator, electronic stability control, vehicle security, low fuel). The lights were going on intermittently, but are now on constantly. I cannot drive the van due to the fact that it just might shut off while driving on the highway or thruway. The vehicle is now parked. And I need a vehicle to drive!!
Driving at 30 mph or slower, the engine shuts off and the computer resets it'self. The gas mileage goes from 21 to 22 mpg back to factory 18 mpg and you have no power steering and no power brakes. It could cause me to wreck for the last time I was in down town lisbon, Ohio making a left turn when it just shut off and lost power. You put it in neutral and it will start right up but it's hard to do while turning and no power steering or brakes.
The drivers side sliding door does not open its shut close and it won't open and the driver seat does not go back or forth this just started happening the seat stop working in augast and the door locked shut 2 weeks ago it's a concern for me why does it do that
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Ticonderoga, NY, USA