This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Top of wheel well around shock absorber broke off due to rust as well a frame disintegrating due to rust. When shock broke free part of wheel well lodged behind the tire and destroyed the brand new tire.
The front subframe on the passenger side is rusted through. I have also heard this part referred to as the engine cradle. I noticed while changing the serpentine belt and had it looked at by a mechanic. Took it to Midas and mechanic said front subframe should to be replaced but couldn't get the part. I researched this online and found it to be a common problem. People say it may be from AC water discharge due to occurring mostly on passenger side only. The uploaded images are of my own vehicle. Apparently people say these snap and the car takes a hard right turn when the wheel comes loose. I guess all the people that die don't post anything so the government isn't taking this issue seriously... Uploaded images are of my own vehicle. I'm also including youtube links of other people's similar year/make, same model issue as 2011 Ford Escape with the same issue. The first one is apparently by a Ford mechanic, fixing his mom's vehicle because he doesn't want her to die. I'm a [XXX], discovered this on Veterans Day 2024. Survived combat, but will this faulty vehicle kill me? Needs manufacturer recall, myself and many others have no choice but to drive it. [XXX] [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
Front sub frame rusting through that could potentially result in the control arms breaking away from the sub frame and the driver losing control of the vehicle. No incident has occurred from this, but could if not inspected and found. This was found by an independent service center. No warning lamps
I am a 79 year old disabled man when I stopped at th spokane va hospital the driver's door would not unlock. I tried everything I could and could not unlock the door.to get out.even the key is only an electric switch there is no mechanical way to open the door. If I had been in an accident and the car was on fire I would have died. As is I had an extremely dificult time climbing out of the car. I drove to a Ford dealer to see if they could fix it but they told me it would be two or more weeks before they could help me. I asked them if I had to stay in that car for all that time.
I found a piece of rusted metal on my garage floor. After having both my mechanic and the man who did earlier body work on this vehicle it was found that the shock tower is rusted. To the extent that the driver's side back wheel is leaning into the fuel line. Making my Escape unsafe to drive. There are many Youtube videos that discuss this problem. So, this is not an isolated case. This is a safety concern that should lead Ford to recall and repair the Escape that this affects.
I am the second owner of my 2011 Ford Escape Limited. I live in Michigan. The previous owner also lived in Michigan. I purchased this car January of 2021 from Sundance in St John-??s. Recently we have had a noise coming from the rear passenger shock and I took my car to a Firestone to get it repaired. They made me aware of my shock rusting through the body and into my trunk panels. The car was deemed unsafe to drive at just less than 230, XXX miles. This car is just over 10 years old and has been beautifully maintained. I have all documents pertaining to maintenance and I recently spent $9000 dollars on this car from the dealership. Surely this isn-??t an issue that started in just this last year as the entire frame where the shock was attached had rusted through. I frequently drive myself and my family around and this not only has been disruptive but could have easily caused harm if gone unnoticed. There was no warning light, there was no indication that it would fail, I am glad I caught it right away. Even July of 2021 I spent about 1.5K on repairs and it was not mentioned to me then that this could be an issue. This is not the kind of issue that happens over night. I am glad no harm was done to me or my family, but I feel cheated.
First power door locks quit working, next tail gate won't open, tire pressure dash light warning comes on yet there are no problems. Check motor dash light goes on and off often yet they find no problem. Latest is power steering went out with no warning while driving again plugged into checking machine no problem. Steering wheel shakes continuously while stopped. And believe suspension is giving out. Not a car that I would recommend to anyone. Has horrible blind spots. All occurrences happen while driving or stationary. All this has happened in the life of our ownership. Steering was yesterday Feb 26,2020
First issue is that the back back door wont open & there is no keyhole to unlock it either. Second issue is that when it rains heavy water is coming through from the outside into all my doors & it stays there because there is no plug to let the water out. The cheapest option was to drill holes in the bottom of each door to let the water out.
I was driving and my back windshield broke loose from the car. I was driving on manchester rd no more than 40 miles an hour. Upon checking, one of the rear hinges had broke and the windshield was haniging by the other hinge. Fortunately for myself and people behind me on the highway it held on. It is now clear that the other hinge is also rotted and I'm very lucky no one was injured. I was telling my coworker who has the same year, make, and model car about the incident and we decided to go out and look at hers. Her hinges are also rotted and the same thing could have happened to her at any time. We then went on line where we found multiple complaints about this same issue. The following image is of the hinges. A friend came and pushed the windshield back up in place as much as possible because it downpouring into my car. Then we ducktaped it to get me home. I did not want to let it hang again for the photos because I am afraid it will fall of completely. One image is of my car, the other of my coworkers.
On 2011 Ford escapte rear hatch has devoloped corrosion and broke off. I have done research and found out that series from 2012 and early is having this problem. Lucky I was not driving anywhere when this was done or it could have caused engery to cars around me and to myself or my young son with glass blowing into the car.
While driving to work, I noticed that the Ford emblem on my steering wheel was off center, therefore making my car out of alignment but I had no idea how this had happened. I made an appointment to bring my car into town fair tire to get it realigned but was told that they couldn't do it because my engine cradle was extremely rusted so I would need to have that addressed at a mechanic. They also told me that they pulled the vehicle safety check they did on my vehicle from the year before when they changed my tires and there were no issues so this was very odd to them as well as to how this could've happened. I next brought it into my mechanic and was told that in order to fix the issue my entire front end frame would need to be replaced. $1600 later, my vehicle is back in line. Ford Motor Company is claiming there are no recalls on my vehicle even though they did have recalls on the 2005 Escapes for this same reason. I'm lucky I noticed and addressed this issue before something more serious happened like my engine dropping out of my vehicle on the highway or something. My vehicle isn't that old and only has 81000 miles on it. Something seems off.
Ignition and electrical system, fuses, etc failure resulted in two spontaneous fires while the car was parked, destroying the car's ability to function. Leawood, ks. Police department has photographed the engine compartment and filed a police report
Driving a 2011 Ford Escape, and while waiting at a stop light heading South at a major intersection, upon the light turning green, I proceeded to enter the intersection at approx. 10 mph. Next thing I know, I am T-boning a car that ran the red light entering the intersection from the East at 40 miles and hour. I was unable to see her approach because of a large truck on my left that was turning left to go East. The impact spun the car that ran the red light around 180 degress then hit a third car and stopped. There were no injuries amongst any of the parties involved in the accident. My concern is that my airbags did not deploy. The total front of my car was smashed in and the bumper just about torn off. Damage incurred by my car made it a total loss. Driverwho ran the red light was ticketed by the police. Looking at the damage to the front end of my car, the airbags should have gone off.
Vehicle was parked. Owner opened the rear window. On latch release (and window upswing) the left side of the window shot out and fell from the car -- window was being held onto the car only by the glass lift supports. The window liftgate hinges had deteriorated/broken apart from the anchor bolt on the window. Approximately 3-5 months previously, owner noticed that a white substance had stained the rear window just below both liftgate hinges.
My 2011 Ford Escape rear liftgate latch won't open- caused by premature failure of an electrical actuator that unlatches (open) the lift-gate. The vehicle's liftgate only unlatches electrically (button switch operated). There is no way to open the liftgate manually if the actuator fails or in the event of vehicle's electric power failure. Defective design, quality control/reliability issue as well as safety concern. There are apparently tens of thousands owners of 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape with the exact same problem as demonstrated by the following you tube link (over 69,000 views to date and growing): Https://www.youtube.com/watch?V=bkxggqyxxo4
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Harrison Twp, MI, USA