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fairly significant
Typical Repair Cost:
No data
Average Mileage:
123,980 miles
Total Complaints:
2 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. added Lucas Oil Stabilizer (short term fix) (1 reports)
  2. not sure (1 reports)
2000 Chevrolet Impala engine problems

engine problem

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2000 Chevrolet Impala Owner Comments

problem #2

Apr 052010

Impala 3.4L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 121,960 miles


Engine Mechanical problem

2000 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 121690 miles

My Impala sounded great when i bought it but it had to have a lower intake gasket replaced since then it has a bad rattle in the rear valve train that quiets when it warms up is that something that could have been caused bu the mechanic that did the repair not tighting something down right of the typical Chevy Piston Slap noise

- , Castalia, NC, USA

problem #1

Feb 212007

(reported on)

Impala Standard 3.4 DOHC

  • Automatic transmission
  • 126,000 miles

The valve train is extremely noisy, especially when it's cold outside and it's warming up. This car had about 60,000 miles on it and as far as I know it's always made this noise when you first start it up. Also when the engine is under a pretty good load (like climbing hills, or merging) the noise comes back, ("floating the valves") not as loud as warm up time, but never-the-less, it still worries me because I cannot afford the $2750.00 it cost for a replacement engine. And that is just for a long block. I imagine that a complete 3.4 liter engine would run $3500.00 or more. (IF ANYONE KNOWS HOW I CAN FIX THIS JUST LET ME KNOW)

Also, this car has had the stalling problems, and also has "took spells" where it wouldn't start at all. It's been to several mechanics and none of them knew how to fix it. Turns out it might have been a faulty computer ground cable. If this is not fixed, you will be eventually replacing the whole computer module, so it's worth having it checked out. It MAY COST YOU AROUND $300.00 TO JUST REPLACE THE FAULTY GROUND WIRE. But it will cost $700.00 plus to replace the whole computer module.

(BTW, I'm pretty mechanical myself)

for those of you with the engine light problem, I would bet it's the auxillary emissions module malfunctioning. Not a big thing to worry about but most of the time it malfunctions if you let your fuel get too low (low fuel level light comes on). what happens is the fuel sloshes in the tank and causes some air to be pulled which 'throws' the code. You can buy a device that plugs into a receptacle (under the dash) that can read/erase (turns that light off yeah!) the codes and they usually come with a book that cross references the codes to the bad/malfunctioning sensors. I suggest investing in one of these if there is more than 60,000 miles on your car (go from $79.00 for a model specific reader to about $300.00 for one that does most models '89 and up) unless you enjoy mechanics charging you for stuff that doesn't need fixing. In other words the reader tells you your oxygen sensor is bad, then you tell the mechanic to change the oxygen sensor and that's it, instead of the mechanic telling you, you need something that cost even more.

Wait until the wheel bearings go out... lol. it's all one unit for each wheel and they are anywhere from $300.00 to $600.00 for each side. Just take my advice here if you don't anything else. When your ABS light comes on, stop driving it right then if possible and have it towed to a shop. Otherwise you'll be replacing your front axles too. All together, you'll be looking at well over a grand if you have a mechanic do it. And if you let this go, it might lock your wheels up on you and cause a wreck, possibly death, or a fire.

Well, if anyone has any questions, I have been all through this car, so ask and I might have a helpful answer.

- , Clinton, TN, USA

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