This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Traction contorl light and check engine light comes on and its throwing my car into limp mode. we have changed out the throttle body and the pedal sensor and still having the same problem.
Button on floor-mounted gear shift sticks in. Can't get key fob out of ignition. Sticks all the time. Second incident this year. Can't turn car off. Problem so common there are you-tube videos on repair techniques. Car is usually stationary, but shifter won't work because of stuck button.
Temp 45-50 degrees, driving in moderate rain for 20-25 minutes, cruise control on. Activate high beams, car shifts to 1st gear at 65 mph, rpms jump above 6000, turn off high beams returns to normal operation. Repeated 2 more times in next 4 miles, even at 25 mph. When end of trip, shut off car and completely dead, no lights, no cranking. Following morning (today) car starts normally. Will report any further from my commute today, if warranted
Upon accelerating my Sonic has lack of power and gears don't engage or they are delayed which causes me to be very unsafe from oncoming traffic when my car decides to engage I can then continue driving. I also have a issue with the car electrical system refusing to chime when keys are left in ignition as a warning sometimes I put my high beams on and all the locks lock and my car does the refusal to engage in gear thing again and my lights flicker my whole computer system went dead and no one can figure out why I only bought the car 6 months ago for 12,000 so I could have reliability and I shouldn't have to deal with this or anything for quite so time my old car is safer than this new one
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Sonic. When the accelerator pedal was depressed, the vehicle failed to accelerate and an abnormal noise was heard. On a different occasion, it took the contact three attempts to start the vehicle. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing or repairs. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the transmission was flushed, but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures and provided a case number. The failure mileage was 93,000.
- Clearlake, CA, USA
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Shifter button has cracked and causes the button stuck. This allows the shifter to be moved without pressing the button and also prevents the key from being removed. The car could easily roll away if bumped due to improper shift locking. This can happen when you're already in park or even in drive. Tons of complains online through forums and videos on youtube how to replace but cost shouldn't be up to owners. Fix this Chevy!
Dealer sold me car with bald tires less than 2/32. Dealer sold car with filthy rusty and loose parts on manifold. Valves. Struts. And trans mount. Suspension pieces were broken and old. The thermostat was put in wrong and caused divid in manifold. Battery and electrical system also had issues. All issues were from mile 1 to 200 of owning car.
I bought this car used back in October 2017, I've had overheating problems, the dealership fixed twice under an extended warranty the third time I had to fix myself (they said my extended warranty expired). I noticed my key would get stuck in the ignition after putting the gear in park, I discovered the button on my gear shift is cracked and I have to pull it all the way put to remove the key. The latest adventure is I was driving on the highway in the fast lane at about 75 mph when my car made a pop noise then slightly jerked then started to slow down. The check engine light came along with the traction light, I was able to safely get over to the shoulder I parked and cut the car off. After a few minutes I was able to start my car back up and get it to an auto store to find out why the check engine light was on. The codes that came back stated communication was lost with the tcm and the tcm internal temperature was too high. I was told the most likely solution is faulty wiring at the tcm. This is becoming a headache I'm still paying on this car and doing more repairing than scheduled maintenance
I purchased this vehicle used in 2016 from a car dealership. A couple of months ago my key would not come out of the ignition and I had to wait a few mins then try again. Next time it did that it took 30 mins to remove the key until finally the last time it would not come out period and I had no choice but to leave the vehicle and have it towed to the shop. I had to replace a part of the shifter. There was a metal piece right under the shifter knob that failed. I had aul insurance vintage now and had to pay 500,000 dollars for this repair because he stated that it was not covered. Personally I don't believe that but I had no choice and paid to have it fixed. I took the vehicle prior to the shifter visit to the dealershil twice with a complaint of not getting enough power when I excelerate and it moves slowly and is at 10-25 mph before it moves to the highway speed of 55mph. They again said they could not find anything. Again today I experience the slow exceleration again, so I am making a complaint this time. There is a electrical problem with this vehicle I 've had a couple of electrical issues as well as a replaced water pump. I got this in 2016 it should not have these many problems with this vehicle. I am always stopped at a light in the turning left lane getting on the highway when this happen and other cars have almost hit me several times. I wantit to be investigated and known before I go back to the dealership again and to be told thatthere S nothing wrong. I see the dashboard lights dim quite a lot while I am driving. And when it stall like this the power lights get really dim but you can still see your mph etc. Please help me something is wrong with this vehicle and I don't want to die in it.
The gear shift button is sticking, which is posing a hazard. The car does not complete the shift or release the key until after the button unsticks. It happened when I tried to park and it happens when I'm shifting between reverse and drive. Its not a one time occurrence.
When driving at 54 mph there is a jumping motion of the vehicle. It feels like I hit the brake pedal. It will do this several time when driving only at 54 mph for more then 1/4 of a mile. There are no warning light and all fluids are checked and are adequate.
The button on the sifter handle has broken and gets stuck in allowing the shift handle to move freely. This has caused my vehicle to shift into neutral while driving. It has also allowed my vehicle to shift into reverse on its own while sitting in the parked position. This issue has been going on in a lot of the Sonic and needs to be recalled. My vehicle has also shifted into reverse and hit another vehicle parked behind me.
I experienced this issue after I came home from work one night. When I placed the car in park the button would not pop out allowing me to remove the key from the ignition. It also will not lock the gear shifter into place and you can freely move between gears without using the button. It will eventually come out, due to the force of the linkage pushing against it. Dangerous condition as you may accidentally hit the shifter while driving. On automatic transmission vehicles, the button that you press in to shift will break at the base of the button where it is held in by a small pin. The original button is a design defect that General Motors knows about. They have released an updated version of the knob that is no longer one piece and it is sold as a repair kit. The repair kit part number is 4242-3234 and costs anywhere from 10-20 usd depending on the dealership purchased from. A number of owners have reported this issue on their cars with varying mileage.
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Sonic. While parking the vehicle, the contact noticed that the shifter became stuck and was not able to go into park, which caused the key to become stuck. The dealer was contacted (mountain view Chevrolet, 890 riverfront pkwy, chattanooga, tn 37402) and diagnosed that the failure was the shifter assembly, which needed to be replaced. The manufacturer stated that the vehicle was 20,000 miles over the warranty; therefore, they were not responsible for the repairs. The failure mileage was 58,500.
Transmission has always had problems hard shift/no shift slipping at 60K had to be fixed but still acts up. Engine coolant pump had to be replaced within a year of purchase and it was not covered by warranty and 3 thermostat housings have been put on. Upon placing the vehicle in park the engine will rev to about 5K rpms. The key gets increadibly hot while driving and it actually burned my daughter. If the key is left in the ignition after parking the vehicle will continually try to crank it's self. If there is any kind of wind the vehicle will sway and becomes difficult to control.
My wife and I have encountered a problem with our 2014 Chevy Sonic. It was getting hot took it to the dealer to diagnose the problem. They said that the radiator had a crack on the seam. Myself, I am a welder knows that in order for a seam to crack after welded, 3 main and easy issues had to happen such as, a. weld got too hot when welded B. when weld was ground down it was taken too close to the root of the weld C. the weld didnt have enough penetration. I personally believe this is a manufactured part defect. Expecially only being 65000 miles
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Sonic. While driving approximately 70 mph, the vehicle independently accelerated. The check engine and traction warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an unknown dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 68,516.
Button on gear shift selector will depress, but will not release, making it very easy to accidentally bump the knob and put the car into another gear while the vehicle is in motion.
I just purchased my 2014 Chevy Sonic lt hatchback a month ago. First the day I bought it I found out I had a reverse light out. The dealer said they would fix it when the license plant cover bracket comes in. The same day I got the car I smelled something burning. I told them about it an they said if it keeps doing it to let them know an my passenger side brakes fell like they are dragging. They said it should come out of it do to sitting for awhile. Well I'm still experiencing it. My oil percentage drops far down when driving for 2 hrs on the highway. The burning smell comes in threw the vents an outside even when the ac or heater is on. Something is not right. I only have 39,000 miles when I bought it a moth ago with 32,000 miles. The dealer said it went through an expectation an everything came back ok when I purchased the car that day. How can that be with burning smell, lights out an only one side of wheel that I'm getting a dragging, grinding noises. They well be looking at it in the next 2week. When I'm driving my transmission feels like its skipping. The acceleration is so off.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Buchanan, TN, USA