This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
When slowing down engine would stall at any speed. Slowly progressed into a hesitation from a red light. Sparatic idle after stopping. Wrench light would come on every time. Now check engine light and wrench light on together.
Vehicle stuck in the intersection waiting for a red light. Engine light kicked on. Error code P2111, throttle stuck. Would been in an accident if on highway. Ford needs to address this issue.
While driving on a main highway on vacation out of state the Ford Escape slowed and would not accelerate to keep up with traffic. "wrench light" light on dash illuminated. It continued to run slowly and we pulled off to the side of the highway. Car restarted and ran normally over 100 miles to final destination. Local repair shop detected no "codes" but suggested a Ford dealer examine based upon history. Dealer confirmed computer issue with throttle body faults caused stall and replaced part. Total costs approx $300. No recurrence of stalls on highway.
Driving about 55-60 mph down the highway my gas pedal stopped responding and my truck rapidly slowed down. I was able to maneuver to the shoulder & restart. This happened 4 times in the 7 miles to pick up my daughter (toddler son was with me). I had to go to the nearest service shop and almost $500 later its being fixed.
- Leland, NC, USA
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Vehicle died and check engine light came on. We ran the diagnostic and it indicated the fuel actuator was getting stuck. According to the Ford dealer, the throttle body needs to be replaced. It appears that many other owners of this vehicle have also had to have the throttle body replaced.
I was just pulling away from a drive thru window when the "wrench" light came on, and the truck stopped moving forward as if it had been shifted into neutral, which it hadn't been. I turned off the vehicle and waited a few moments and restarted it and it was running fine, with no further lights being illuminated on the dash. This same problem happened again approx 3 weeks later, although this time I was going approx. 20 mph, having just accelerated from a stop sign. The wrench light came on, but this time the engine light also came on, and then the truck lost power. I turned the engine off, waited a few moments and restarted it. This time, however, the engine light did not go off, so I took it to an auto parts store to read the computer. They found diagnostic code P2111, throttle body stuck open. After a few hours of sitting in my parking lot at work, when I started the vehicle there were no lights illuminated on the dash, and per the dealer's service department, the computer had reset itself.
Driving on highway at about 65 mph. Driving for about 30 min. When vehicle started to stutter and slow down. Pushing the accelerator and no response -RPM and speed dropping quickly. Almost run over by other vehicles on highway. Wrench light came on the dash panel. Car was pulled over to side of road and barely going at 900 RPM and ~ 2 mph. Needed to ha E car towed. This is a very dangerous issue that needs to be fixed immediately!
While driving at various speeds, conditions, the wrench warning light appears and the car becomes limp and non responsive. Engine was running hard. Had to turn off vehicle and restart (which was difficult). This occurred again within minutes, this time with the check engine light coming on. Went directly to repair shop and had it checked. Was told that error code P2111 was being shown. The throttle body was cleaned and the gas pedal assembly was replaced. The next day, the same problems continued. I am scared to drive this car, especially with my children in it as I am worried it will die while pulling out in traffic or that someone will rear end us.
While driving the car lost speed and rpms. Car would not accelerate. It ran at an idle. Dealership said throttle body needed to be replaced. The part has need on back order for some time.
We were driving around a corner and all of a sudden the wrench light came on and the gas pedal would no longer work. No other lights came on, just the wrench light. I was able to pull off the road, fortunately, as the steering still worked. I turned the car off, restarted, and it ran fine the rest of the way home. Since that occurrence, I have had the engine die multiple times. This generally happens when I have pulled up to a red light signal. The car dies, and it is always right before the light turns green! you have to quickly put it in park, restart the engine, and then it runs fine. When it dies, the throttle will not function at all as it goes right to the floor. Since the first occurrence, it died while my wife was driving the vehicle also. Same scenario as mentioned above and also when stopped, the car throttle kind of surges, almost as if the car is going to die. When you apply gas, it jumps forward. I took it into the Ford dealer and after multiple visits they have determined that the throttle body needs to be replaced. I have a code reader and the code was P2111 and P2112 (error throttle actuator stuck). They first charged me for "cleaning" the throttle body assembly. Said I must have blown dust in it! also told me my 6-speed transmission has shift issues on hard acceleration....probably caused by them. Talked to parts dept and throttle body quote $200.83, when service advisor asked if I wanted them to replace it he quoted $240.
While driving up a hill, I let my foot off the gas and when I tried to press gas, my engine stalled and died. When hooked up to diagnostic to see why my SUV keeps dying when idle, the code was "P2112" throttle actuator control system stuck closed.
Vehicle "jerked" and lost all throttle. Open ended wrench light came on in the instrument cluster. Luckily was able to coast into small service center who scanned the computer and it had the faulty P2111 code (throttle actuator control system stuck open). Code was cleared and car restarted. Died another 6 times on the way home, each time restarting after turning the key off. I see that this is currently under investigation and wanted to bring yet another instance to your attention. If this would of happened on the interstate or a large left hand turn lane during rush hour it wouldn't have been pretty.
While driving, the vehicle stopped accelerating, the check engine light came on and car began to idle. I turned it off and back on five minutes later and it accelerated for 1/4 of a mile before doing the same thing again. I turned it off and back on and drove it straight to my mechanic. After running diagnostics it was determined to be the throttle body as well as the processor.
While driving at normal speeds the car completely lost acceleration and the accelerator became unresponsive. The check engine light came on and the car reduced to idle. After placing the car in neutral and rolling to a stop the car was turned off and I waited for 5 minutes. Once restarted the car ran normally but continued to have the problem with no warning. When taken to the dealership they stated it was a faulty throttle body assembly.
On 5 different occasions while driving anywhere from starting from a stop light to traveling up to 70 mph on a major interstate my Ford Escape has suddenly lost power. The engine does not lock up, just all power is lost. I press the accelerator and there is no revving of engine. I have been able to get the car to a stop, but it will start to jerk and stall. Finally I turn it off, then restart it but it I having difficulty in starting. Thus far I have spent $240 for a tow and have had 3 mechanics investigate, one had no idea but had "heard about throttle body problems", a second told me to take it to the dealership and charged about $40 to clean the throttle body. The dealership has told me its the throttle body and will be charging about $365 to replace.
I was on the interstate, approximately 6:30am, going 70 in a 65 zone. The radio was on, so I heard nothing strange, but suddenly, with no warning, my car lost the power moving it forward. I did not lose control of my 09 Escape. The steering remained ok, as did the brakes, but my car suddenly lost power in the engine to keep my car moving forward. As if maybe I had run out of gas - but there was no sputtering and I was not low on gas. I kept pressing the gas pedal thinking maybe there was trash in my gas line, but there was no change in the way my vehicle behaved. I was slowing down fast, but could steer myself to the shoulder of the highway. I turned the engine off, waited a minute or 2, and tried to start again. It took a minute to catch, but it finally did and I drove off. 5 miles down the highway, it did it again. Again, I struggled to the shoulder in heavy traffic, turned the engine off and waited. I was 50 miles from home in a rather remote area and I was scared. Again, I started my Escape - again it took a minute, but it did start and I made it all the way home without another problem. I drove directly to my local Ford dealership and my car his been there 36 days. I call every other week to check on the status of the part. They never have any news of the part coming. They have given me an excellent loaner car to drive, but this is not right. They tell me 1000's of people had the same part go bad across the us. We're all waiting. Just this morning, they say they now have a shipping number for the part we all need. They tell me 7 of us are waiting for the same part here in my small town. They hope the part will be here today or tomorrow. My local Ford estimates the repair cost to be $450. Surely this should be a recall item.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Townsend , TN, USA