This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Purchased 2010 Ford Escape XLT in April 2015. (1) vehicle had sound coming from engine when accelerating. Issued fixed by dealer replacing belt tensioner but noise has since returned. (2) vehicle already had or developed constant vibration at idle when in drive and foot on break and gets worse with A/C on. Took to dealer 3 times who stated they replaced right engine mount and rear transmission mount but vibration continued after repairs. Service dept tech stating that there is a strong vibration but that they are unable to determine engine vibration but that vehicle is operational. Vibration is very strong and almost feels like engine wants to turn off at times. If transmission is put in neutral or park then vibration is gone and not noticeable while driving. (3) transmission shifting from 1st to 2nd is harsh and delayed at times causing a jerking motion on numerous occasions during city driving and transmission occasionally jerks when put in reverse but not always consistent. Safety concern is vehicle feels as if it may shut down while this vibration is being observed and causes safety concerns when driving vehicle and that transmission may fail soon. Purchased at Fiat of fresno, fresno ca.
I was at a complete stop.bwhind a vehicle at a stop light. When I released the gas, my vehicle surged forward and hit the vehicle in front of me. Fron that day forward, my vehicle had frequently surged forward or reved up qhile at a complete stop. Now, my vehicle will shut off while I'm driving with no warning. The only light I see is the wrench light and that's only while the vehicle is rolling to a stop after shutting off.
When I began to takeoff the engine or trans hesitated badly and the "wrench" light came on and stayed on until I turned off the engine. When I restarted the engine the wrench light did not come on. Next day while driving the engine and transmission hesitated again and the wrench light came back on. This still continues.
While driving down the street, the vehicle suddenly seemed to stall. The 'wrench' light came on and the engine was still running but only moving at idle speed. Pressing the accelerator did nothing, the engine kept stayed at idle. I pulled over and then turned off the engine. The car restarted and the wrench light was off. I accelerated up to street speed (30-35 mph) and the same thing happened again, the wrench light came on. I again pulled over, turned off the engine, and then restarted the car. This time the wrench light went off but the 'check engine' light came on and stayed on. I was able to drive the car where I needed to go by keeping it under 30 mph. I did make it to a auto-parts store and they were able to hook up a diagnostic machine to give me the P2111 trouble code, throttle body stuck open. When I restarted the car, the check engine light was off and I was able to accelerate up to 55 mph on the highway with no issues and later was on the interstate at 65-70 mph. Nothing more happened over the next week but on my way to work this morning, 6/8, the same issue happened 5 times on my way to work. The car would just suddenly lose power and the engine would only run at idle speed. The wrench light came on each time. I would pull over and stop, as turning off the car while coasting and then restarting did not seem to 'reset' the car. When it restarted, the wrench light was gone but it came back on and the car stalled several times. After the third time, the check engine light came on again and it happened twice more after that.
- Verona, WI, USA
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While moving in left of two lanes in moderate traffic at ~58 mph the car lost all power. Accelerator did not function. 'wrench' warning light on dashboard was illuminated. All electrical equipment, power brakes, and power steering seemed to function normally. Vehicle had no power, meaning that driver could not control speed of vehicle. Right turn signal was activated and the vehicle was 'coasted' to the right berm -- almost being hit by another vehicle! driver sat in vehicle assessing status of all gauges and (warning) lights. Nothing appeared out of ordinary except for 'wrench' light. Vehicle was turned of. After 30 second pause, vehicle was restarted. Wrench light was not illuminated and, again, all gauges and lights appeared normal. Re-entered traffic and successfully reached grocery store -- 1 mile away. Vehicle was parked. Upon completion of shopping vehicle was started and driver was able to return home (~5 miles) without event recurring. This is an extremely dangerous situation. It is only through 'good luck' that our vehicle was not hit by other traffic. Driver had zero control over vehicle speed.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. While driving at 60 mph, the vehicle hesitated and the speed decreased to 40 mph. The vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to steer the vehicle, but was able to pump the brakes and stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was determined that the gears in the transmission had been stripped. The check engine light, oil light, and battery light illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact stated that the dealer previously changed the fuel gasket twice, but that did not correct the failure. The vehicle was taken to another dealer who determined that the transmission failed. The vehicle had not been repaired. The contact spoke with the manufacturer in regards to a newsletter regarding replacing the throttle body and reprogramming the PCM under investigation PE13003. The manufacturer stated that the dealer did not feel the repair was warranted and the manufacturer declined to pay for the repair. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 85,000.
Driving normally, throttle control powertrain warning light comes on, check engine light comes on, car gas pedal does not work, engine idles and does not accelerate. When you shut the car all the way off and wait then restart the engine the car works as normal again.
The vehicle began having difficulty shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears in November 2014. Apparently, there was a leak on the driver-side axle shaft that caused transmission fluid levels to drop. Initially, we perceived this issue to be related to cold weather, but the leak was discovered when we finally took it to a dealership to discover the source of the problem in March 2015. A seal on the driver's side was leaking transmission fluid, resulting in a repair bill of $471. While checking online to see if this was an appropriate cost for the repair, I discovered that this was a common problem in both 2010 Ford Escape models and Ford Fusion models. The individual we spoke to at the dealership when picking up the vehicle informed us that they were well aware of this problem as well. He instructed us to save the receipts in the event of a future recall. Ford had issued a technical service bulletin regarding this problem with the axle seal, so the company is well aware of this issue also.
My 2010 Ford Escape has been stalling!!! I have already got the throttle body update last week! that is not the fix. I have had issues with my car (the transmission was bad- recalled, the steering wheel locked up on me driving the highway at 70 mph with my kid- recalled, the throttle body- fixed last week in the customer satisfaction update/recall) and yet it is still stalling. This is very dangerous and just an accident waiting to happen. This 5 year old car has been nothing but a death trap for me and my toddler. No one can tell me what is wrong with the stalling. I am taking it in yet again in hopes someone can tell me why my 5 year old car is shutting down on me. It shakes really hard like it's going to explode and then smells like gas before it shuts off. I have been beyond frustrated with this 2010 Escape and can't get rid of it because everyone knows all of my issues with it. If my daughter and I die while in the car.....it will most likely be Ford fault with as many problems I have had. Please please recall whatever is causing these cars to shut off while driving. www.consumeraffairs.com/Ford-news-and-recalls?page=2 (NHTSA said it has recorded 1,500 complaints about the problem, with three crashes and one injury so far. Besides stalling, NHTSA said the affected vehicles may also surge unexpectedly as the rpms increase to prevent stalling during limp mode. An earlier throttle problem in the Ford Escape has been fixed, Ford said. It is not thought to be related to the stalling problem.) please read that last line!
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. While making a left turn at 15 mph on a hill, the vehicle hesitated before shifting into drive. Two months later, the steering wheel became difficult to turn. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated that the vehicle was included in NHTSA campaign number: 14V284000 (steering) and had been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 76,000.
I was driving on a service road and was entering the freeway when the transmission started slipping. This caused my vehicle to start jerking. The vehicle behind me almost ran over me as I was loosing speed due to the transmission slipping. I managed to pull over and after a couple of minutes the transmission started working again and I was able to pick up speed and continue driving. This incident also caused my braking and steering to be erratic. This happened 3 times on Dec 9, 2014. This is unsafe as it nearly caused a major accident in heavy traffic going South on interstate 35 out of austin. By my estimation there would have been no fewer than 5 to 6 vehicles involved in an accident had I not managed to pull over.
Immediately after having two items fixed that were recalled on my vehicle, (throttle body etc), the check engine light came on. I thought it was something done while fixing recall items; however, the Ford dealership service dept advised me that it was not due to the recall items fixed. Also it would cost $527 to fix, as the flap inside the nozzle/flex fuel pipe was not closing properly. I showed my anger and disappointment - which at that point, the service manager advised that my car had a white funnel that they would use to try to undo the flap. It worked. Why in the world did they try to get me to pay $527 without first trying the funnel. Another client in the service dept advised me to do the funnel thing before the service guy did. He has had the same issues. As of this morning, however, the check engine light is on again. I am going to try the funnel first, before I take it to my personal mechanic. I feel assured that I am not the first Ford Escape 2010 owner that has experienced this issue. Please check into recalling this problem. Thank you very much.
I have had the two recalls fixed in July for my 2010 Ford Escape. However, in the past two months my car has been in the shop regarding the (wrench light) throttle/powertrain light coming on. My car looses power when I accelerate and the light comes on. It goes off once I turn off the car which is making it very difficult for the dealership to identify the problem. They claim they can't find anything and unfortunately I can't get the car to the dealership when the light is on. They have run a history for the codes that have come up on the car, but there are no recent codes/problems. I keep telling them that I am having the same problems listed in the Ford recall notice but I am told that there is nothing they can do if there is no code showing a problem. I am terrified to drive my son in this car. I also commute 100 miles daily down a very busy highway and I am worried that the car will die and I won't be able to pull off the road safely. Ford needs to do something immediately because the problem with the Escape has not been fixed!
I was driving down the highway and the vehicle lurched and lost power. The motor was still running, but when pushing the accelerator there was nothing. I pulled to the side of the road and stopped. The vehicle continued to "lope" and there was a light on the dash showing a little wrench. I turned the vehicle off and started it back up again, and it ran fine. This same thing has happened at least 4 more times. If there was no immediate way to get off the highway, this could be very dangerous resulting in a rear end collision.
My family and I were traveling hwy 113 in va coming back to pa from nc. My husband accelerated to pass a vehicle. After passing, our vehicle began losing acceleration...my husband pushed the gas pedal to the floor and was not getting any acceleration. The wrench light illuminated and we had to make an emergency stop on the side of the highway while cars were passing us and coming up on us quickly. We came to a stop and the vehicle began to stall. My husband shut the vehicle off, waiting a minute and restarted. The vehicle seemed to run fine the rest of the way to pa. We called the dealership the following day (Monday) and were told they could not get the vehicle in until 8/4. I began finding info on the web regarding Ford's customer satisfaction program 13N03 regarding the throttle body. I took the vehicle in and was told there were not any codes showing on the computer. They refused to replace the throttle body. I was told to drive the vehicle and if it happened again to bring it back. I refused and insisted they replace it. I am now still fighting with Ford to reimburse me. I have sent letters to Ford only to receive a "form letter" back from them suggesting that I take the vehicle to the dealership to determine if the throttle body needs replacement...I had it replaced already...they obviously do not read letters sent to them. I will keep fighting but I do not understand why the NHTSA continues to receive complaints about this issue and does nothing about it. It is a huge safety issue! shame on Ford and the NHTSA!
While driving on 70 mph speed limit highway, the vehicle without warning suddenly appeared to downshift dropping my speed approx. By 20 mph, then lurched at 50 mph until I pulled off on the shoulder. This was on a unlit stretch of highway and was very dangerous. I tried again to drive the vehicle with the same results, meanwhile the dashboard warning lights came on. I then pulled off the road and turned the vehicle off for about 5 minutes. When it restarted the warning lights were off and the car drove normally. With about a hour left on the trip, the car started to downshift and upshift randomly as I reduced my speed to about 40 mph on a 70 mph highway, which is very unsafe, so that I could make it home. The last time I had my oil changed, the service technician suggested that I change the transmission fluid. I felt like the old fluid may have been the reason why my car shifted in an erratic manner. So, I took the vehicle to my local Ford dealer for the transmission service. This was on July 21, 2014. It was a about week later, that the vehicle began lurching again. This time I decided to try a full tank of gas with cleaner to see if that would improve the performance. It didn't. finally, I made an appointment with a repair shop to fix it on Aug 18, 2014. They were the ones that told me the fuel throttle body was bad and that's when I googled and found the extended warranty had expired on July 31, 2014. There should be a recall for this part, not just a bandaid to make it look like the NHTSA was concerned. It is a safety issue and also and expensive repair at $400. NHTSA: Do your job and force a recall on this part. You know it is unsafe.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Fairview, PA, USA