This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My back door lock on my driver side stopped automatically locking and unlocking unless I do it manually. It wasn't a huge issue since I don't have a lot of people in my backseat. Last night, when I got home from work, I reached to open my door and nothing happened. I thought I was tired enough to be mistaken, but it happened. My door will now only open from the outside. The lock still locks and unlocks automatically when I use the button, but I have to roll down my window to get out. This can be hazardous if someone is locked in the car during a wreck, fire, gas leak, etc.
My brake lights and rear blinkers are no longer working. One day they just went out. Of course I took it to my mechanic right away since it is extremely dangerous driving at night with no brake lights and I had recently enrolled into night classes for my fall semester. I left my car with my mechanic for nearly a week because he thought the switch needed to be replaced. He ordered a new one, but when it arrived he called to tell me that it wasn't what he thought it was. He let me keep the new switch free of charge since he wasn't able to help me at all. I had to walk to the shop to pick up my car because my mechanic was just as baffled as I was. Since someone who went to school for this kind of stuff couldn't help me, I figured I would google the issue to see if there were any answers out there. I found websites full of people having similar issues. ( www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Fusion/2006/lights/turn_signals_do_not_work.shtml ; www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/4304-parklampsturn-signal-issues/ )
The power locks, and interior door handles to open the door in both the front and rear/driver and passenger sides malfunction regardless of use/force. The interior door handle warps/bends and breaks. The locking mechanism also malfunctions making it impossible to open the door from the interior. In only way to exit the vehicle is to roll down the window and open the door from the outside door handle. Once the locking mechanism has malfunctioned, it is impossible to lock the vehicle via the remote alarm or with the physical key. This presents a major problem as 1:in the event that the driver and or passengers need to exit the vehicle it is impossible unless windows are rolled down. 1B: in the event that a crash or windows malfunction, all occupants are trapped in vehicle 2:the vehicle is without passive anti-theft as the doors are unable to lock.
The factory ignition coils began to short against the interior walls of the engine head above the spark plugs. As they shorted it burn the power control module (PCM). With no PCM my spark plugs failed to light, causing my engine become flooded with gasoline, which washed away the lubricants on my cylinder and heads causing all of my cylinders and heads to become damaged. As this happened before I was able to pull over my engine shut off. Causing me to lose power steering and all of the other electrical functioning components. Luckily I was on a fairly quiet road and at somewhat low speeds, but for the many others that have or could experience the same problem might not have been or be as lucky. 2006 Ford Fusion 3.0L V6.
Motor mounts: All three mounts have been replaced. 6 total. One has been replaced twice. One three times. Electric door locks & window regulators: Front driver and rear right passenger have failed. Driver floor mat: Slides.
The contact owns a 2006 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that while traveling 60 mph, smoke entered the vehicle from the front panel vents underneath the hood. The contact stated that the engine warning light illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle began to stall intermittently. The failure occurred on three separate occasions. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the power control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 124,000 and the current mileage 124,030. Updated 08/19/14 updated 8/30/2017
I have had problems with it since I bought it, it has problems starting especially when its cold outside. Driver heated seat caught fire and melted my seat, now my heated seat doesn't work and seat is ruined. Transmission is poorly made and unsafe. While driving it has problems shifting, shoots the rpms all the way up. The car sounds like its going to blow up. Does it mostly when showing down and speeding up. Not the only person having issues, Ford needs to stop being so cheap and recall the 2006 repairpal.com/transmission-problem-242.
I am the original owner of a 2006 Ford Fusion with only 65000 miles. I recently had a very scary near death experience due to a defect in this vehicle. After much research online and speaking to certified mechanics I am sure Ford is well aware of the problem that exists with the ignition coils exploding due to a computer malfunction. This causes the car to stop. My car happened to stop while I was on the freeway. I won't go into a lot of detail but it was scary and could have potentially cost me my life. Fortunately I was able to safely coast to the shoulder and wait for aaa to come to my rescue. I took my car to a mechanic who got the car running again after replacing two ignition coils and my spark plugs, but it broke down again on the way home from the mechanic. Again, the car just shuts off without warning, but this time I was left in the middle of traffic waiting for aaa. My car is now at the Ford dealership and the bill is really high. Both, my mechanic and the Ford service technician confirmed that there is an issue with the computer that is causing ignition coils to "burn up" or "explode". I understand that there is an 8 year or 80,000 mile warranty with covers this issue, but unfortunately I am over the 8 years (but still 15,000 under the mileage). This should be a recall. Someone could potentially lose their life because Ford chooses to overlook this ticking time bomb. I am now having to spend $2200 to repair this issue when Ford should be the one covering the cost to make it right.
The contact owns a 2006 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that while driving 60 mph, the vehicle stalled as the traction control warning light illuminated. The contact coasted onto the shoulder and was able to restart the engine and resume normally. The dealer performed a diagnostic which located the failure at the throttle. The vehicle was repaired. The computer system and the throttle body was replaced. The manufacture was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 90,189 and the current mileage was 97,000.
The contact owns a 2006 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that while traveling approximately 70 mph, the vehicle hesitated as the engine light illuminated. The vehicle then stalled and failed to restart. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where it was found that the main computer and ignition coil failed. The vehicle was being repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 102,000...updated 02-04-14..
Vehicle losses propulsion at very inconvenient times ( I.e. driving down the interstate, stopped at a stop light, and pulling out into traffic). I have attempt two fix the problem because mechanic said that it was my throttle body. I even called Ford, and they said "if the wrench light is on it was the throttle body." I just want this problem to stop happing because I have done everything to fix it. Changed the spark plugs, battery, throttle body (twice), and even did the oil. Nothing works. Please help me find out about this recall because Ford is asking me for large amounts of money which I don't have. I bought this car brand new and has been well maintained.
Car started misfiring while accelerating about a month ago. Sometimes the kick was so much it felt like getting rear ended. Twice (both incidents within the same week) the vehicle went into limp mode. The first time was during accelerating to move around a slow vehicle to avoid hitting it and the second time the car would misfire everytime it reached 65 mph. I stopped at a red light and when the light turned green the car wouldn't respond to the gas pedal. I turned off the car and turned it back on and it started working again. The check engine light never came on. Ford diagnosed it as the throttle body being stuck open or closed. This same problem tends to happen with this same throttle body in a number of vehicles.
Traveling down busy local highway about 45mph in late rush hour traffic. The car suddenly began to run very rough and then engine stalled. Check engine light came on. The car had to be maneuvered to the side of the road with no power on very busy highway. There were a couple close calls but no accident thankfully. The car was towed to a local dealer. The dealer indicates the power train controller module (PCM) unit failed. This seems to be very common failure on these cars and it can be dangerous.
Car engine started sounding rough and when I stepped on gas nothing happened and car would not pick up speed. It would not go more than 20 miles per hour. The wrench light up in the car showing a problem.
Front turn signals or hazard lights inoperative. Rears working O.K. the interior directional indicators on the dashboard show that the turn signals were working and no bulbs malfunctioning. Both front signal bulbs were replaced. The problem continued. There is no way from the interior of the vehicle to know that the signals or hazards are not working properly. The vehicle was taken to the Ford dealer and it was diagnosed as an internal fault in the smart junction box. Cost of repair was $617.11. Research has shown this to be a problem in all models of Ford vehicles recently.
I was driving home from work, in the rain, when I got the dashboard message that my rf turn signal was out. Drove the rest of the way home and turned off the ignition and the lf parking light stayed on. Checked the bulbs and fuses and all were fine. Did some research online and found out about similar issues with the smart junction box. One suggestion was to disconnect the battery to see if it reset. Tried that with no success. We reconnected the battery the next morning and parking light came back on. Had to remove the bulb so I now had no front turn signals. Brought it in to the dealership, assuming the worst after my online research, and got the news it was the sjb to the tune of $700. I was told it wasn't under recall because it's not a safety issue. Having working lights and turn signals would seem to qualify as a safety issue to me?
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Rocklin, CA, USA