2010 is also the year we started seeing complaints about the power steering failing. Throttle and steering failure? Yeah, that’s why this is a clunker.
10.0
really awful
Crashes / Fires:
7 / 1
Injuries / Deaths:
3 / 1
Average Mileage:
61,284 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My vehicle is having trouble at first start after refueling the vehicle and I made a research and found that there is a recall for some same model of my vehicle that there is a problem with the purge valve. The recall number is 15S34. My vehicle is having the same trouble as mentioned in the recall but my vehicle is not listed as recall under the vin even though I am having problems. I have attached the recall document below that my vehicle needs.
A few years back there was a recall on a fuel system part cause it would emit strong gasoline odor. Same issue has come back. Dealership states that recall was completed and they could not repair the very same issue without charging for it.
I believe it is the Fuel System Throttle Body. Yes it is available for inspection. While driving on the freeway at 60 mph, and on city streets 30 mph, the car suddenly stalled out. The wrench warning light came on for about 3-5 seconds, but the car was already stalling out. This was a extreme danger to myself and all other drivers in my vicinity. I plan to have the vehicle inspected. No other inspection has been done. Wrench Warning Light came on about 3-5 seconds before car stalled out power seemed to decrease as I pressed the pedal.
My car is leaking fuel. I am unable to pass the smog. I called Ford and they said they already 'inspected' my fuel tank in 2016 and it was fine so they don't have to fix it now. This was recalled. It is effecting my car and they need to repair it. Just because it wasn't happening before doesn't mean they should not be responsible for this problem now that it has happened and my car is affected by this recall. They are refusing to fix it.
My local dealership won't do the open recalled foe my car because they don't know if part is good or not.. I went and pick up my car from the dealership they only did the airbag.. I was wondering if you guys could contact them and let them know to replace the part.. recall number is 15S34
After much research I have determined the throttle body is failing to function properly in this car. This part has been recalled on non hybrid models but not hybrid models, even though they are identical parts.
Etb electronic throttle body on 2010 Ford Fusion 4cy SE - instant loss of power to vehicle as traveling 45 mph hour on roadway, almost crashing, after much research I've realized you guys allowed Ford to do their one "recall" that wasn't a recall, and now endagering thousands of lives that are not aware of the faulty part!!!! why"?" I could have died!!!!
1.) C/S airbag light is on - local dealership found passenger airbag in B pillar is cause - not related to recently completed recall 19S34 on passenger airbag inflater npa1908055946 per dealership. Not sure why the airbag systems in these vehicles are problematic, but the owner should not be responsible for charges for replacement of these problematic parts. Possible new recall needed. 2.) recall 15V34 relating to leaking canister purge valve - Ford authorized an update to the vehicle powertrain control module calibrations to help prevent pressure cycles in the fuel tank - these calibrations were performed however the purge valve has still failed. The part 9U5Z-9C915-H was originally recommended 4 years ago when the recall was issued but the part was unavailable at the time, on special order. Vehicle owner requested repair / part replacement repeatedly but was told the part remained unavailable and was not an issue with the re-calibration unless the check engine light appeared. The dealership closed the recall without replacing the part - 6 months later the check engine light came on and the cause is the need for a replacement canister purge valve and the owner is now responsible for the repair/replacement costs. Recall should be honored.
I took my car to griffin Ford in tifton ga for the air bags recall and the fuel tank recall. They fixed the air bags but said nothing was wrong with the fuel recall. But I explained to them that the car will burst gas out while pumping and gas leak under the car. They said nothing was wrong with it. I took it the Ford place in turner county and they said it was the canister valve solenoid. But they said it was a recall on it. I'm confused now I got to buy one and pay to have it replaced.
Car accelleration is sluggish/weak after car comes to complete stop. Poses real danger when entering traffic, especially left turns with oncoming traffic. Problem has been reported by several others. Cause is design defect in vehicle/battery age counter in car's computer. Only allows for one digit. Causes battery to stop working properly after car reaches 10 years of age. My car was purchased in aoril 2010. Had local auto shop reset counter to "0". (car has only 77,000 miles) now functions as intended. Copy of repair invoice attached. I will send copy to Ford Motor Company rquesting reimbursement after filing report here.
It has been discovered that in many if not all fmc 4 door sedan hybrids with the 2.5 liter engine and nickle metal hydride batteries, oem software starts to drastically reduce electric vehicle operation sometime after the hybrid warranty expires. The effect of this is the car's acceleration and fuel efficiency is drastically reduced and automatic periodic battery re-conditioning ceases. The car essentially ceases to function as a hybrid and the engine runs all the time except when at a standstill. Up to 70,000 vehicles may be affected. It has been found that this id controlled by a battery age feature in the software. Resetting this age to any lower value restores completely normal hybrid behavior and performance. Fmc has refused to do this instead quoting battery replacement for $8,000 as the solution. D.O. E. tests many years ago showed robust performance of the battery out to 160,000 miles in accelerated testing. The fix is a ten minute software battery age change that fmc refuses to do. The reduced acceleration is a safety issue as the atkinson cycle engine was not designed to be unassisted by the battery and has very slow power acceleration without it.
After pumping gas in the vehicle, the engine does not turn on. The engine chokes and turns directly to battery mode. You must floor the gas pedal 3 to 4 different times in order for the vehicle to start. Must sit and wait about 5 minutes for the idleing to stop before putting car into drive mode.
In motion on highway with cruise control car dashboard shows 'stop safely now' loose acceleration. Turn car off then back on and can drive. Check engine light on. Told vacuum pump creating issue. Replaced and car okay. While in motion on highway during acceleration 'stop safely now' entire car shuts down while driving. Loss of brakes, steering, acceleration. Get car towed back to shop and told acid leak degraded wire harness. But also told they can't ensure the car will be fixed from repairing. How does a battery leak so bad without any cracks. No shop can confirm the acid leak is causing the brake issue. Possible ABS module, electronic control, O2 sensor replacement too.
I purchased a new 2010 Ford Fusion hybrid SE from a Ford dealership in fairfax, va. After owning the vehicle for approximately 9 years, the vehicle no longer operates in electric mode (it only operates in gas mode). My average mpg has dropped from 37-40 mpg to 25-27 mpg. I took it to a Ford dealership service center manassas, va in Nov 2019 who indicated they are aware of the problem but they have no solution to fix it (they initially were going to charge me $150 diagnostic fee but waived the fee and sent me home). There are numerous reports in Ford vehicle forums with the same complaint. Consensus is that Ford programmed the electronic mode to stop working after 9 years. When I purchased the vehicle, there was no disclosure that I would no longer have a properly working hybrid after 9 years. This end-of-life decision would have to be programmed into the vehicle's ECU at the time of manufacturing and should have been disclosed by Ford at the time of purchase. Had Ford disclosed this, it would have directly impacted my decision to purchase the vehicle. The fix appears to be reprogramming the vehicle to make it think it is less than 9 years old which returns the hybrid functions to normal. According to several forums, some Ford service centers have conduct this fix, but the majority of Ford service centers are not willing/able to resolve this issue. This issue has been identified in Ford's oasis database with no solution. Tsb #ssm 48238 NHTSA id #10167224 was announced in Oct 2019. Refer to forums with identical issues and solutions: (https://www.cargurus.com/cars/discussion-C28475_ds1000144), (https://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/fusion_hybrid/2010/tsbs/), (https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-Ford-Fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/).
From a complete stop, car stutters and pauses before starting to move as if it's trying to decide which form of power to use - the electric battery or the engine. This has become quite dangerous because it's enough time to be hit by oncoming traffic while not being able to move. When it does "kick in", it lurches and makes a 'knocking' noise. I'm very concerned I'm going to be smashed into one day due to it not moving. Searching online and reading through the Ford Fusion forums, I've found that it has to do with the system reading the electric battery age. This stuttering happens almost daily now. My commute is all city driving and happens when coming out of a complete stop, no matter if I'm turning or going straight. I take excellent care of my car, have owned it since new, and have less than 60,000 miles on it. I'm hoping to be able to drive it for a long time to come, but, if this continues, I fear I will be injured - or worse - due to this issue. Please address this problem. There are many, many Fusion hybrid owners that are having this problem, but seem to not be getting any response from Ford.
Car no longer converting to electric vehicle as it used to under similar circumstances. Only time it switches to electric vehicle is when brake is depressed, coasting down hill or at a stop. Dealer has run Ford diagnostics and has no idea what is wrong. The same issue is being reported on various websites.
I had already gotten my throttle body repaired the year before my car started jolting as if it was malfunctioning again. This time though the vehicle would jump when I tried accelerate from stop, rpms would go all the way up to 5 before switching gears and the speedometer would move up and down while electrical lights flickered. Took it to Ford and nothing was found so I got an oil change and transmission flush. That same day the car started doing it again. I took the car back to Ford they offered to clean the throttle body and returned the car the next day. Not even 24hrs after started the same problem. I took car to auto zone they immediately found an error for the camshaft position sensor. Brought car back to Ford where they had me leave it for two days for the transmission tech to look at it. They then said oil had leaked onto the sensor causing the car to drive that way. Replaced that and the head that was leaking. Car was still jolting and driving as if throttle body was messed up but worse. I brought my car back that same week they found a sensor that needed to be replaced in the transmission. This whole while I was 8-9 months pregnant and ended up spending 1200 dollars on something that should've been fixed the first timr and in my opinion a side effect from the car having a defective throttle body for so long before they allowed it to be fixed.
We had driven to a football game, when we returned to the car it would not start. All the lights worked, it turned over perfectly every time, but it would not start. Had it towed to the mechanic in the morning and it started for them. However, after multiple test they were able to get it to stop starting. Checked the codes and it said O2 sensor. Replaced O2 sensor. Car died on my way home from the mechanic while pulling out onto the highway from a stop sign where vehicles are traveling 60mph with my two small children in the car. Terrifying! I barely chugged across the lanes and got the nose of my car on the shoulder. I turned the car off and after a few tries it restarted. When I got home, I took the battery cables off the battery for the weekend as I read that could help the faulty computer issue. So far, I have not experienced this issue again. A couple of weeks before this, I noticed that at speeds of 50 mph the car felt like it was speeding up and slowing down really fast like pulsing.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Orono, ME, USA