CarComplaints.com Notes: We're not used to seeing any major problems with Hyundai, which makes the early signs of trouble with the 2013 Elantra very surprising, in a bad way.
Early trends show problems with the steering wandering / pulling to one side along with premature tire wear. Elantra owners have tried sensor adjustments, wheel alignments, even replacing axles, most with no luck. Hyundai has made vehicle buybacks through arbitration, but that rarely works out well financially for owners in the end.
Also there is a pattern of complaints about the 2013 Elantra brakes grinding at very low mileage. It seems there was a bad batch of OEM pads & rotors, but so far Hyundai is not doing a recall. Instead Hyundai issued a TSB & dealers have been replacing pads & rotors on a per-complaint basis.
The final straw is that for several years in a row, Elantra owners report significantly lower gas mileage than the EPA estimates, & there's a small trend of engine problems.
10.0
really awful
Crashes / Fires:
3 / 2
Injuries / Deaths:
5 / 0
Average Mileage:
27,951 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Confirmed the customer's complaint &found the engine didn't start. Inspected the ignition system & the air intake system, but found no concerns. Inspected the engine coolant level & condition & found the engine coolant level was fair. Filled the engine coolant to the proper operating level & continued diagnosing the vehicle. Connected an engine coolant pressure tester to the radiator & pressurized the engine cooling system to check for leaks. Inspected the engine cooling system & didn't find a leak. Removed the spark plugs for inspection & found the spark plugs were contaminated but Ok. Perform inspections of the engine compression & found compression was low. Under 60PSI. Prop the wiring to the starter & found signal was present & the starter cranks but the engine would not turn over. These results verified that Some internal components in the engine have failed. *NOTE: Found ignition coil cylinder 1 fault, causing P0301. Misfire. Replace with new ignition coil pack The tech inspected the engine. Found no obvious fault. No warning indicator. The computer shows the engine is running normally. He did check all the components & found a couple that was weak or will be going bad soon. The ignition coil for the remaining 3 cylinders is firing slightly weak. There are 4 coils, you replace 1, the remaining 3 are from the old engine, original until now. He's recommending having those coil packs replaced. That's helped the spark plug fire more properly. Also, the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe. the reading shows the O2 is switched late, meaning the electronic sensor is getting weak. It will fail soon, once it does, it will set the engine light.Engine Mounts: Right: With the engine at idle, performed an inspection of the engine compartment and found the engine shook. Turned the engine off & performed a visual inspection of the engine compartment & found that an engine mount was weak or damaged. The issue has been ongoing for months prior to this issue.
The subframe bushing that holds engine in place has deteriorated. With this issue as you hit potholes, rough roads, the subframe assembly shifts allowing vehicle to sway and drift out of the lane. This is a severe problem as I made several emergency stops due to the car vibrating and pulling extremely hard to the right at which steering wheel was straight an tires where straight. With this shifting if the bolts where to break off you lose complete control of vehicle except for your braking whether it's city or highway driving. With 2 lane roads and ditches if this was to happen you can be looking at a fatal accident or very severe accident. This issue needs to be addressed as it is a safety concern whenever this issue starts to present itsslf.
It's the truck latch issue that is being recalled on many vehicles. Might just locked (truck) and will not open. I will have to bring it in to the dealer but believe that my vehicle should be on the recall list as others have the same problem. Please help. Thank you.
Just bought this car used for my teenager. 127,000 miles and inspected by a mechanic and cleared with no issues. Brought it home and have driven it ONCE and it has started making a clicking sound that goes away once the car warms up. Took it back to the mechanic who said it is a piston issue and the engine will need to be replaced. $4-7k to replace an engine on a car I just paid $9k to buy. I went looking online for more information and have seen numerous complaints and even a law suit settled out of court for this exact same issue but no recall. This is nuts. That it is known that the pistons are bad on this car and can potential blow up the engine and need replacing but nothing has been done to fix it.
I was driving my 2013 elantra on the highway and I hit a chuck hole the engine shut off and was stuck in the middle of traffic.I also have had instances when I will be in traffic and car will shut off sometimes the car will restart immediately and sometimes it will not. The car has a box on the battery that will also become loose from vibration that will prevent car from restarting. Thank God I was able to put car I. Neutral and restart it. This poses a safety risk for not only myself but others. also have had problems with the steering when you hit a bumb or a rough spot on the road car starts to shake and the ability to maintain control is effected.. the brake lights jeep blowing. This car is just a safety haza6 period. It is the worst car I have ever have and regret everyday that I bought it. They should order not only safety recalls but a recall for all cars made in 2013
- Indianapolis, IN, USA
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One day while driving on a smooth road, my steering wheel began shaking and has not stopped since. I've taken it to our mechanic who indicated my rotors are fine, which he said would normally cause shaking like that. The steering wheel makes a clinking sound with the slightest movement, and every time I brake I have to firmly hold the steering wheel due to the excessive shaking. Sometimes my EPS sensor will go off. My mechanic has replaced some parts-specifically a "plastic coupler" in the steering wheel, but this shaking keeps happening. After researching forums online many people have reported similar/same issues, and link it to a plastic coupler in the vehicle, that Hyundai says is not covered in any recalls.
First even though it is an eight year old car. It only has 28,540 miles on it. No accidents. for the past few weeks the ESC light keeps coming on. I noticed there are many others with this manufacturer having the same problem, in fact there is a recall for this model ending in 2012. The dealer wants 850 to change replace the front left hub. I believe this is a manufacturing issue. thank you Michael Turner
When I start up and drive my car, the airbag light is on and it reamins on. I have nothing on or against the seat. Not sure if this means airbags are malfunctioning?
We brought our vehicle in, under warranty, for engine noises and stalling. We were told the previous owner could have neglected maintenance and we should do more frequent oil changes to solve the issue(oil sludge). This went on for months and the issue only got worse. By the time the issue was diagnosed(pistons), we were out of warranty and noone would help us. We later found out they covered some bearing issues, but not piston issues. We did everything recommended. They refuse to give me documents, I have asked many times for them(mcgrath Hyundai of cedar rapids). This was 2 years ago. We entered a class action suit thinking we would get the help we deserved. We aren't getting help from the settlement and they are now saying we were out of warranty upon purchase of the vehicle. If we had the money to replace we would be getting full reimbursement, but we get nothing since we were financially unable. The people that did get the replacement engine are still having issues. I would like this engine to be recalled because I feel it is unsafe and not the driver/purchasers fault.
The trunk's latch fails to open from the inside or outside. I tried using a long screwdriver to release the latch from the inside and it won't give in, even when I try opening from the outside at the same time. I discovered this problem when the car was on and in park. I also failed to open it with the car off and the car in park.
The ESC light illuminates periodically and will cause the car to stall while driving straight at speeds as low as 25 mph. I have had to drive with the ESC system off for safety reasons, because this would be disastrous on the freeway or highway. There are no obd2 codes that are in the system. I changed out the steering flex coupler, because it had disintegrated, and was making steering difficult.
My car feel like it don't want to stop I think it's something going on with my brakes pads it feel like it's nothing under my feet like I can feel everything I don't know it's it's like a feeling you had to be in the car to feel it and it don't do it all the time that's what's scary it doesn't mean it's wet too
Every time it rains. It hydroplanes real bad. On the highway. Anything over 40 mph. Back is trying to out run front of car. I put new tires on it all around still doesn't help.
Car spontaneously ignited while parked in driveway overnight. Engine had been off for 6 1/2 hours, keys were not in vehicle car is a total loss. Heat from fire damaged another auto parked nearby. Local fire department extinguished the blaze.
Noticed a oil based leak under vehicle, have it inspected the leak is coming out of a defective air conditioner compressor, emitting toxics freon and ac oil to the air and ground. This should be a recall for safety and pollution.
The key fob is not detected (intermittently). When this happens, I am left stranded. My car will not start. I have changed the battery in the fob when this occurs and I have tried to use my second key fob. The problem still is not aided. I have attempted to put the fob up to the start button, as some videos suggest. The problem still continues. Upon looking at forums and other places on the web where Hyundai customers communicate, it is obvious that this is a common problem among Hyundai customers. During this time, the car was stationary. This is a recurring issue. I even got the brake sensor replaced. The problem continues.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- San Diego, CA, USA