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pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
Average Mileage:
91,296 miles
Total Complaints:
224 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (67 reports)
  2. letting car sit for approx 30 minutes (38 reports)
  3. wait 10 min till securty light stops flashing, try again (18 reports)
  4. recall (14 reports)
  5. replaced body control module (11 reports)
  6. bypass the ignition sensor (9 reports)
2002 Chevrolet Impala electrical problems

electrical problem

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2002 Chevrolet Impala Owner Comments (Page 2 of 12)

« Read the previous 20 complaints

problem #204

Apr 042011

Impala LS 3.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 135,000 miles


This passlock thing needs to be fixed because I am always stranded at the most unexpected times and far from home. The car is nice but is not worth the hassle, I want a fix to my problem ASAP! Chevy will not get my money again!

Everyone should sign this petition:

- , Temple Hills, MD, US

problem #203

Feb 222011


  • Automatic transmission
  • 60,000 miles

Had one serviceman tell me security is tied into the radio,maybe just replacing the radio with a cheap model will serve as the remedy.

- , Canton, OH, US

problem #202

Mar 312010

Impala LS 3.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 178,000 miles

General Motors needs to recall these cars and fix them. This is my daughter's car and I'm tired of seeing her & my 4 year old granddaughter being stranded because GM refuses to fix the problem unless you pay their dealers upwards of $1000.00. My dad was an electrical engineer for Chevy for over 40 years and I'm sure he'd be rolling in his grave if he ever saw the extent of this problem. It's not just Chevy but all GM products

from 1998 - 2005.

- , Mount Clemens, MI, USA

problem #201

Feb 172010

Impala 3.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 109,000 miles


This car causes my son to be late to school and myself late to work. I have had the electrical system gone through completely installed remote start even changed the radio and still it leaves me stranded at least once a week and sometimes more than that I wish Chevy would do a recall this is obviously a major problem in the 2002 Chevy Impala

- , Lexington, KY, USA

problem #200

Jun 102009

Impala LS 3.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 81,000 miles

happened to wife first,she went to store, came out car would not turn over to start, someone brought her home, 1 hour later we went to retrieve it put the key in started up as normal, was fine for several weeks, now doing it once a month, looking for bypass fix now, this impala has been a electrical and mechanical piece of troubble.

- , Bushnell, IL, USA

problem #199

Oct 062010

Impala 3.8L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 124,274 miles

stupid car runs for bout 3 seconds after starting then dies on warmer summer days. heard there's a relay bypass for a command start that would work. no more chevy for me. has 5 other problems, also electric related that i don't feel like fixing.

- , Red Deer, AB, Canada

problem #198

Jun 012010

Impala 3.4lV6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 109,000 miles


Have had Chevy's all my life . Will never own another ,Including all GM Products.

Have had nothing but trouble have replaced ignition switch,Ignition cylinder and keys, and bcm . At this time still no fix . The cost are outrageous. What NEXT? Will General Motors ever recall this problem ? I have heard and read of thousands of owners of GM autos having this problem . What is their problem for not fixing their automobiles .I may go to a Toyota at least they recall and repair their problems.

- , Frankfort, KY, USA

problem #197

Jun 122007

Impala 3.6L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 115,000 miles

The security light seems to always activate on itself everytime I hit a pothole or bump on the road. it's turns off after awile, but sometimes the problem gets annoying becasue after several times i turn off or on the car it won't turn on at all. It will actually kill the switch. And I have to wait from 10 to 15 minutes before it turns on again. I haven't even bothered to fix the broblem, because I know it will be expensive. And just to let you know this problem had been previously fixed with the warranty th car had when I firts purchased it.

- , Chicago, IL, USA

problem #196

Jan 252010

Impala 3,4 V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 128,654 miles

it really sucks when it doesn't want to work. security light flashes, then the service engine light, then the battery light, and air conditioning will not blow out cold. lights go on and off .any suggestions to the problem?

- , El Paso, TX, USA

problem #195

Aug 022010

Impala ES 3.4L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 130,000 miles

The 2002 Chevrolet Impala should have it's own website...YADF.COM. That is short for Yet Another Design Flaw. A myriad of problems ranging from leaking upper and lower intake manifolds (which kill your starter over time), to low quality rotors, to the icing on the cake...THE PASSLOCK. I must say it is an awesome theft deterrent. I would never think about stealing one of these pieces of crap.

In my database entry, I indicated that I have not fixed the problem. That does not mean that I have not attempted to fix the problem. At first I thought it was my keyless entry causing the problem, because it was beginning to fail. In retrospect, the keyless entry system was probably working fine. It was an aftermarket system installed by the dealer, so I removed it. They also incorrectly wired an aftermarket CD changer, so I thought it was a safe bet that it wasn't installed correctly either.

It reduced the frequency of the failure, I thought. It has happened so many times, I do not recall the variables. Lately high ambient temperature (100F +) seems to aggravate it, but I do not think that was a catalyst on numerous other occasions. I had taken to carrying an 8mm socket in my car due to some "battery" issues. I had to clean corrosion off the positive terminal frequently (about once a month). This took 10-15 minutes. I am guessing that this masked my real problem the PASSLOCK.

I have done the battery disconnect thing and it doesn't work consistently. My next try will be pulling and replacing the CLSTR/BCM fuse. If that provides consistent results, then I will install a momentary, push-button switch in the dash for convenience. I will post the results here.

Update from Apr 25, 2011: I bypassed the passive security for some temporary relief. I wound up paying the dealer for a new BCM (probably wasn't necessary, since they seem to know very little about the cars they sell). It worked fine for a while. Then my fuel pump quit activating consistently on start. I would have to turn the ignition off and on 5-10 times. Once I heard the whir of the fuel pump, I was usually good to go. The fix was to take out the ignition switch, disassemble it, clean the tumbler with WD-40 (just in case), clean the contacts (again), and lube the pins that pop up to engage/disengage the contacts. I noticed that some of them were sticking when I turned the key (with the tumbler back in). It probably would have been better to get a new ignition switch, but the dealer irritated my by telling me that my catalytic converter was the problem. Not sure what the catalytic converter has to do with the fuel pump...Anyway, Christine runs like new.

- , Calhoun, LA, USA

problem #194

Mar 082010

Impala LS 3.2L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 127,000 miles


Car only starts when it feels like it. New battery installed but same problem. I place the key in the ignition and try to crank but nothing. No lights just won't start. This morning I got part way to work but had to come home. I turned off the engine, went inside the house and then it would not start. Took my other car to work and when I came home tried the Impala again and bingo--started right up like nothing ever happened. This has happened about 5 separate times now.

- , Tucson, AZ, USA

problem #193

Apr 202010

Impala LS 3.8L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 95,000 miles

I am 9 payments away from a 4 year loan on my 02 impala ls and it wont crank. only when it wants to. and when it does, it runs like theres not a problem in the world, then i turn it off and im stuck again. its dead silent once the key is turned all the way to the start position.

my father is a great mechanic and we have completely gutted and tore apart this car from the starter, to the relays. the fuses and the ignition box. we changed the ignition box, key core, and the little yellow module attached to the core, it has the same problem. theres no signal getting to the starter. we gave it to the chevy dealership who wanted 600 for a pcm and it wouldnt even start so i could drive it off the lot. of course it started for them just before i got there....either way it wasnt the main computer. so dont waist time or money.

so we tryed a push button to start the car as a secondary ignition. we connected it straight to the battery to skip all the security stuff, and it worked every time!!! for two seconds. then the security feature catches up to it, kills the gas, and turns off the engine. secondary ignition methods..(aka wireless remotes) sell a tiny bypass module for any security feature your car may have, normally comes with the kit. does ANYONE know if that works, ill go buy one right now!! but something is def blocking that path and all it needs is to be bypassed or disconnected.

BUT I HAVE FOUND SOMETHING THAT I WOULD LIKE SOMEONE TO TRY!! if you look under the hood there are two small boxes (mine are blue) on the left side that have thinner cables coming in one end and out the other. these boxes are actually connectors that can be seperated if you properly unlock the clasp. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO PULL WITH THE WIRES) the battery needs to be plugged in or this will not work right, and you will shock yourself if you pull the cables apart. ok...the top box closest to the radiator is where the ignition switch sends a signal to the starter. (its where we were able to connect the push button switch). and its where the chevy mechanic told me he was checking to find the problem. it seemed to be fine so he said it just had to be the computer itself. the second connection box back by the engine coolant tank...i curiously disconnected and reconnected it and with that, it works almost 85% of the time now!! its easy. its like a plastic belt buckle that you gotta be careful pulling straight out and it will sway backwards. pulling back ALL the way is enough to disconnect everything. dont even try and seperate it. sway the buckle forward and kinda lock it down, you can hear the fuel injectors reseting and if you sit inside the car, the instrument pannel seems to 'wake up'.

Anyways make sure everything is tightly locked and secure the box back in its little plastic mounting so its all clear before you try and start up. but if this box resets the fuel injectors and the instrument pannel, what else does it do? security features maybe?? any results on whether this works for you will be appreciated and i would know the time i took to write this didnt go to waist.

and PLEASE LET ME KNOW when chevy puts out a recall and installs those tiny bypass modules so the security feature allows the starter to do its thing. thank you

- , Orlando, FL, USA

problem #192

Jul 112010

Impala 3.4L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 100,000 miles

Just thought I would add my name to the growing list of complaints about this car.

- , Tulia, TX, USA

problem #191

Jun 102008


  • Automatic transmission
  • 78,000 miles

Hi All, I thought I was the only person with this problem, until I found this website by accident. Then POW, when this problem first started I didn't know what to do. I knew the battery was good, the starter, and starting system. After driving the car all day, had to stop home for a few minutes. Went back to the car, when I tried to start it, and I got NOTHING. I said to myself, how can a battery goes from strong to nothing, without any warning. No tick tick tick, nothing. So I tried to jump it, nothing. Tried this for 2 days and nothing, then I called AAA to have it towed to dealer.

When the AAA driver got there I told him what happen, then he tried to jump it with his jumping system, NOTHING. I had a strong horn sound, entry remote working , light are bright, air is working, but no radio - Strange! So the AAA driver used the manual way to open the car, put the key in and out to lock it, and lock it a few times. I'm watching this, and I'm saying to myself 'this isn't going to work, just tow it to the dealer'. Put the key in the ignition and started up, damn it work.

Thought my problem with was over, a few months goes by and here I am stuck in the the same situation. Get out car for a few minutes and go back to car and nothing. Still I had all the power working, accept the radio. Getting ready to call AAA again, then I remember what the AAA driver did. So I put the key in to lock it , removed the key and put it back in to unlock it. Did this a few times, put the key in the ignition and damn it started.

Been do this for 2 years everytime this happen , on June 9, 2010 my wife had to used the car. She tried to start it nothing, but this time she told me her remote entry isn't working either. Since I been doing this so long, I knew I was going to go out there and do the key thing and get her on her way. But the entry remote was not working, that was a NEW added situation this time, I tried everything and nothing.

So I called AAA to have it towed, driver worked on it for awhile and nothing happen. When the car got to the dealer and they took a look at it, I got the call telling me that the car computer isn't communicating, and before they can go any further. A new computer module had to be used, just to get it communicating. And that might not be the problem, after going through other option and finding out none of them will work.

I had to agree, and buy a new module at 350.00 and labor was 200.00 total 594.00 with tax. THIS IS JUST WRONG CHEVROLET. When you have loyal Chevy customers saying they are going to get rid of there Chevrolet and go with another manufacture. I'm in the same boat, I've had Chevy most of my life. I'm getting rid of this headache really fast. Chevrolet you just lost me forever.

This Keyless Entry Remote need to be a recalled, and all owners who had to pay need to be refunded. Oh by the way, a year ago this happen to me. Had it towed, got the service agent call telling me I need a new Ignition switch. You know what I had to to do, buy a new switch at 300.00, that 900.00 I have spent on the car not starting. I bet my switch was good, and this computer module was going bad then. And the tech couldn't really find the real problem.

- , Milwaukee, WI, USA

problem #190

Jun 232010

Impala 2.8L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 99,419 miles

I bought this car in 2005 with only 36k on it it happened the first week i had it, then it happened once a year then it graudated to evey 6 months or so, the last few months it has happen evey couple of weeks, now its every day, . it is very expensive to fix and until a couple of days ago they could not find the problem. Eveytime i took it in and it was put on a diagnostic machine it would showm nothing wrong.

Does anyone know if GM ever recalled this model. I have always bough GM cars this is my last i will never buy another.

- , Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada

problem #189

Jun 222010


  • Automatic transmission
  • 95,000 miles

For about 2 years this issue has been going on. It happens in the warm weather. The car has been looked at over and over again. After reading all the complaints about this issue, I plan to tell everyone I know to NEVER buy a Chevy!! My daughter has had nothing but Hondas her whole life and NEVER has had ONE issue with any of them. Please tell all your friends/co-workers to complain so there is enough complaints for Chevy to recall!!

- , Concord, NC, USA

problem #188

Jun 152010

Impala LS

  • Automatic transmission
  • 69,205 miles

I have had this problem for about 2 months now. Fortunately, I have not had to deal with waiting 10 minutes for my car to start. Instead, I had the privilege of just seeing the "Security" light come on without the repercussion.

Apparently GM made the theft security system so secure that it even keeps the owner out! How amazing. Anyways, here is a link of my paid invoice.

- , Vancouver, WA, USA

problem #187

Apr 022010

Impala 3.4L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 86,256 miles

I bought this 2002 chevy impala in 2009. Love the impalas but i will tell you i took the car to chevy when i got in it one day and it wouldnt start. Needless to say they told me it was the ignition switch that was causing a malfuntion....$3,000.00 LATER AND I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM!!!!


- , Pompano Beach, FL, US

problem #186

Mar 252010

Impala 3.4L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 100,007 miles




- , Shelton, WA, USA

problem #185

Mar 112008

Impala LS 3.4L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 136,564 miles

Bought the car from a friend and for a year or so didn't know anything of this problem until oneday my car wouldn't start. At first I thought something was wrong with my battery so i bought a $100 battery and the car started, but two weeks later, the same problem. I have spent so much money on tow trucks to only get three block down the street to a shop and the clunker starts. A friend with the same car just a 2005 told me what it was and like everyone else here, I have to wait 10,15, sometimes 20 mins., and sometimes 2 days for the car to start. All i know is you have to wait until " security" stops flashing on the message center. When the word is just showing on the screen without flashing then the car will start. But who cares about that! You still have to sit there for whatever amount of time until your car starts. Someone told me to push and hold the tune button until the red light next to it comes on and pump your breaks. Here to tell you it doesn't work. I would just prefer if it can be disconnected without being charged a sh..t load of money.

- , New Orleans, LA, USA

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