This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 1997 Chevrolet Blazer. While driving at an unknown speed, the ABS warning light illuminated and the front brakes locked up intermittently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the ABS pump and electronic control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 79,300.
97 Blazer with original low miles had engine stop both on and off the highway several times but it would start back up. In Jan while driving down the highway the service engine light came on and rpms went up. We pulled off and found the transmission was stuck in 3'rd gear. Also key would not release to remove. Errors came up P1860 P0785 and P740 that refer to transmission. The problem was not transmission but ignition switch contact block commonly called the ignition switch, it is the contact section and not the key or lock cylinder. This ignition switch had already been replaced once. GM has a service bulletin #17006264 on the ignition switch and this appears to be a big problem across many years and models but no recall was issued. An ignition switch problem can cause engine to die, lights to go out and other problems but the contact for the transmission power seems to be a common failure point. I replaced the ignition switch and everything worked fine for one month and then the problem recurred with errors P1860 P0758 P0753 P0740 and P0785. I tested the ignition switch power from red/white to white wire and got no power when switch was on so the new switch failed. I tested by temporary jumping a fused line to fuse 24 output and then transmission worked fine and the key released. I again replaced the ignition switch contact block under warranty and new switch worked fine except the errors came back on P0740, P0785 and P1860. Transmission worked ok though so I took the Blazer to a Chevy dealership to check it. They reset code errors, checked wiring, connections and switch. The technician said my work was correct and everything checks out fine and he was not sure why codes came back. Now ok. I examined the original switch and there was no problem with contacts or wires evident. This could be a switch design issue or there is another issue causing this.
1997 Chevrolet Blazer. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle electrical problems. The consumer stated she had to continuously charge the battery and the clock light stayed on.
- Oxford, NC, USA
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I was going through a roundabout and put my right turning signal on and the vehicle shut off. I was able turn my hazard lights on and pull over. After putting it in park it did start. After that I parked it at a gas station turned it off went to leave and the SUV would not start. I took the steering column cover off and starting knocking on things and I was able to get it started. I later found that it was a wiring harness that failed. It was replaced after that everything ran great.
I had an issue where my truck did not want to start but the engine would turn so I knew it was not the battery because my headlights did work. I then noticed my interior dashboard lights were not on so I found that very strange. After so many times trying to start my truck I noticed my truck would only turn on if the interior dashboard lights were on. One night after work I was driving on route 83 in Illinois and I was going to make a right turn on to route 53 and suddenly my vehicle just turned off completely. Luckily I w, a able to pull over and restart vehicle. It was at midnight, there were no vehicles at the time and I was not going at high speeds. I did some research on the internet and I found out that it was a faulty ignition switch. I had the ignition switch replaced and my vehicle works perfectly fine now.
ABS wire caught fire on my 1997 Chevy Blazer after turning it off. And caught antifreeze reservoir on fire. Luckily I could catch it before it burned the truck up. Called dealer and they said that there was no recall on the problem.
After only 70,000 miles I had to get a new engine. It also never wanted to start when it was cold and wet out. Then just yesterday I was driving down the road when smoke started to come in through the heat vents. The electric wires caught fire under the hood on passenger side of car near firewall. Went up in a matter of seconds. Destroyed the car.
Power accessory circuit breaker becomes hot, and then power seats, door locks, mirrors and keyless entry do not work. This existed when I purchased the vehicle in April 2008. I tried replacing the circuit breaker. Also, the power mirror on the passenger side was damaged and was removed, so this may not be the same issue as the recall on the mirrors = to install fused jumper harness.)
This 1997 Blazer has some kind of electrical problem when it warms up it looses power and spudders. Will not exceed 35 miles per hour and then wont run at all. We have changed O2 sensors mass airflow sensor catalytic converter. Its worst when in gear.
Engine shuts down intermittently for a few seconds without warning. This happened for several months at all speeds, any road conditions. The engine service light does not come on when it happens, making the cause difficult to identify. This is very scary and/or dangerous when accelerating onto a freeway, crossing an intersection or a set of R tracks. Almost had accidents several times. The cause was not identifiable until other symptoms also happened. The cause was eventually identified as burned contacts in the key switch. Replacing the key switch solved the problem.
The contact owns a 1997 Chevrolet Blazer. The contact stated that the engine failed on three different occasions. After waiting 5-10 minutes, the vehicle restarted. The failure has occurred while making a turn, driving downhill at approximately 15 mph, and another time while driving approximately 55 mph. After the most recent failure, the vehicle was taken to a repair shop the next day. The mecahnic was unable to duplicate the failure and advised the contact to wait until it occurs again. The vehicle has been driven for almost a month and the failure has not recurred. The failures were intermittent and no warning indicators were present. Once the failure occurred, the key could not be turned or removed from the ignition and everything failed. The current and failure mileages were 60,000. Updated 01/11/08. Updated
Owning this vehicle has been a nightmare and a financial drain. Windshield wipers worked when they chose, replaced wiper motor due to defective part. Upper and lower ball joints all had to be replaced. Wheel bearings had to be replaced. A/C stopped working, had it looked at and recharged and it still doesn't work. Fuel gage didn't work, replaced fuel sensor and sending unit. Rear wiper quit working, replaced rear wiper motor, a few days later it does not work again. Replaced water pump, have replaced ABS only to get a recall after the fact with no reimbursement. Wears through brake pads entirely too fast. Replaced alternator and battery twice. Rear hatch does not unlock with key. Headlights are so dim they might as well not exist. Water leaks into interior on drivers side due to a bad seal. Idler arm needs to be replaced. Gas pedal sticks. Now heater fan works sometimes. Reading through the complaints we are all experiencing the same problems and nothing is being done about it. Recalls issued on some vehicles but not all? now I hear GM put a bad intake manifold gasket on these as well as several other cars (1997) and did not issue a recall because it is not a safety matter! this causes antifreeze to leak into the engine and ultimately ends in a repair of at least $1500. After my experience with this vehicle I will be purchasing soon and it most likely will not be GM. Sad since my dad worked for them for 30 years. They should be held accountable for putting a bad product on the market and leaving us to dry.
I have a 97 Blazer 4X4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been having problems with the voltage (I think) for a while now. The voltage meter swings from just above 9V to over 14V when I stop at a traffic light. I'm convinced the gauge is not to blame because when I put a load on it, it indicates 9V to 10.5V, the dash lights dim, the headlights wil also dim. I've already replaced (3) altenators and the battery twice which in 4 months and everything is still the same. The gauge will read just above 14V when I'm am driving the truck with no problem but the minute I stop at a traffic light the voltage gauge drops down to 9V or 10.5V depending on what accessories am runnning on my truck. Temperature and frequency between trips seems to not make a difference either. The only thing I have done to the truck even remotely connected to the electrical system is to swap the radio, but I used a wire harness to connect the wiring. I've checked and will recheck tonight for loose wires or bad grounds, but other than that I'm lost. Any help?
Starter went, gas gauge stopped working, rear wiper don't work, ball joints bad, alternater went, shocks went many times, anti lock breaks don't work properly. Tired of the problems!
Nar 02/10/2003. The consumer had numerous problems with the vehicle. The air bags deployed for no apparent reason, the windshield wipers failed, the manifold gasket failed, the turn signals went out, 2 batteries failed within a year, the alternator and belt failed, the oxygen sensor and A/C compressor failed.
Complaint received via E-mail. My car caught on fire and burned while driving at 65 mph on the highway. There were no brakes, but it burned enough to stop in a person's yard just off the highway.
When using windshield wipers, wipers work at random stopping in middle of window interrupting view. When turning key on, dash lights refuse to light up and vehicle will not start; although radio still works. It will eventually start;when ready! sometimes shortly after first trying, sometimes 30-45 minutes later. Brakes must be pressed completely to floor before decelleration begins. When going over jspeed bumps, sounds like loud dragging noise coming from underneath of vehicle. Back seat passenger side power window does not work, will function using driver side controls. Gas guage does not work properly, causing to run out of gas occasionally. While driving at minimal(55mph) speed, vehicle will die but will sometimes start itself back up, sometimes it must be put in neutral & restarted.
The consumer experienced multiple problems with the vehicle. The wiper motor failed and was recalled. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for repairs but they didn't have the parts available. The radio would go off and on, the overhead display and map lights would go off and on, the cd player no longer worked, the rear window latch failed, the mirrors would only move to the left and there was rust in the transmission.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Powhatan, VA, USA