pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
Average Mileage:
151,500 miles
Total Complaints:
1 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (1 reports)
1995 Ford Explorer transmission problems

transmission problem

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1995 Ford Explorer Owner Comments

problem #1

Jan 172012

Explorer XLT 4.0L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 151,500 miles


click to see larger images

thin milky-pink transmission fluid thin milky-pink transmission fluid thin milky-pink transmission fluid thin milky-pink transmission fluid thin milky-pink transmission fluid thin milky-pink transmission fluid

Purchased vehicle from private seller. I asked the seller why the O/D light OFF was flashing on the dash. He said he had no experience with engines and he didn't know what it was for. The next day, I was checking all fluids and levels. Anyway, I look in the transmission filling area and noticed the level was waaayyy past full (above crossbar area); I see that there is only milky-pink like substance in it.

From all the research I have done already, I think the pink substance is a mixture of transmission fluid and anti-freeze. I have not had a chance (or the money) to know EXACTLY what is wrong with it, but I do know that anti-freeze is NOT supposed to be in the transmission fluid area(s). My guess is that the problem was caused by an internal failure in the radiator cooling line.

I believe that Ford should recall these transmissions because they know it is a MAJOR problem. Please, is there anyone that has already started a class-action lawsuit on Ford because of this matter? Knowing that they are selling (or sold) a defective product to HUNDREDS of THOUSANDS of customers.This has to be a manufacturer issue! The consumer should NOT be responsible for this issue.

Update from Jan 23, 2012: Hello again. Once again, I am not a mechanic, but I have researched the correlation of the O/D light Off blinking & the thin milky-pink problem. My conclusion is that the problem was from the cooling coils in the radiator (internal of course) and that pink stuff was a mixture of antifreeze & transmission fluid. I know, duh..right? Anyway, Here are the steps I have taken since I last posted this thin milky-pink issue:

Begin with this PAGE


• PRAY! • Disconnect NEGATIVE battery cable. • Spray ALL areas to be broken loose and/or ‘removed’ with Liquid Wrench. • After making sure there is a catch pan underneath the radiator, open the radiator drain. Leave opened & let drain. • Remove the intake hose area by disconnecting the mass air flow thingy & the other attached connections (both sensor plugs, and the vacuum line). Just get this thing out of your working area! • Using the (2) proper tools (fan clutch wrench set) you will now “break” loose the fan clutch bolt from the water pump pulley. • Now, you should be able to fairly easily spin the plastic fan off with your hand. (See Picture 1) • Remove the (2) bolts from the fan shroud, both located at top. • Remove reservoir hose from radiator filler neck. • Pull out the fan & shroud together. You will now have full access to the radiator hoses. • Disconnect the entire upper radiator hose. Inspect hose. Clean if necessary. • STOP. Make sure there is a catch pan underneath the lower radiator hose area(s); carefully disconnect it because it WILL drain liquid. Inspect hose. Clean if necessary. • Using the (2) proper tools you will now disconnect BOTH transmission lines. Be sure not to bend transmission lines! • Remove the (2) bolts from the radiator, both located at top. • Pull out old radiator. (See Picture 1) • STOP. The next procedure is: REMOVAL OF THERMOSTAT.


• Remove the (2) bolts from the throttle cable cover. Set aside the housing. • Disconnect the belt pulley. Use ratchet. • Place the loose belt above itself (near alternator area). • Remove ALL (3) bolts on thermostat housing. (One bolt is easy to remove; one is underneath & hard to see; and the 3rd bolt is a pain in butt to remove). • Remove the thermostat housing. Inspect housing & the rubber hose it is connected to. Clean if necessary. (See Picture B) • Pop out the old thermostat. It may need a wiggle. Inspect it. Notice if a gasket was/is on it. (We may need one if the new thermostat does not have a gasket). (See Picture D) • Install the new thermostat with vent hole facing top, (12 o’clock). (See Picture C) • Reconnect the thermostat housing, starting with the pain in butt bolt. • STOP. Go to: INSTALLATION OF RADIATOR procedure


• First, compare the old radiator with the new radiator—ALL missing hardware from the new one, must be installed on the new one: radiator cap, the (2) correct threaded bolts to the transmission line, and the (2) metal clips for the side bolts. The (2) transmission bolts should be hand-tightened onto the new radiator. Not necessary, but if no sealant included, use Teflon tape around threads. • Reinstall pulley, (just as you removed it). • Reinstall belt, making certain the belt is firmly in place and is correctly inserted into the grooves—refer to the belt diagram if you have completely removed the belt or if you are unsure how belt is looped onto pulleys. • Slide the new radiator into place—it sits on perches. • Install the (2) bolts into the radiator, both located at top. • Using the (2) proper tools you will now reconnect BOTH transmission lines—WARNING: Be sure not to damage the transmission lines while tightening these two nuts! You will only need to fasten the smaller of the 2 nuts. Use an open-end socket wrench to hold the larger nut stationary while tightening smaller nut. The larger nut is already in place and does not need to be tightened any further. • Reconnect lower radiator hose. • Reconnect the upper radiator hose, also making certain that ALL other hoses are returned to their appropriate housing stations. • Slip the fan & shroud into place, just as you removed it. • Line up the fan bolt to the fan hole, making sure you do not cross thread! • After you have lined up the fan bolt, you will now reconnect it by hand-spinning the fan into the pulley hole; when you have firmly hand tightened bolt into place, use the (2) proper tools to further tighten fan onto the pulley. • Reconnect the air duct intake manifold, the appropriate hose, and the (2) sensors. • Reattach the throttle housing, just as you removed it. • STOP. The LAST (or next to last) procedure is: COOLANT INSTALLATION.

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• Make certain radiator drain plug is closed & the reservoir hose is connected to both the radiator and reservoir tank. • Fill coolant system with antifreeze-water mixture—Use a 50/50 mixture & do NOT exceed 70% if using straight anti-freeze! • Reconnect NEGATIVE battery cable. • Start engine. • Check for leaks. • With engine still running, observe the temperature gauge. • Allow engine to get to “normal” temperature—you will have reached the “normal” temperature when the upper radiator hose gets hot. • Re-check coolant level & coolant reservoir. Adjust if necessary. • Again, with engine still running, observe the temperature gauge. • STOP. You now have 2 choices—It is highly recommended that you implement both choices below: 1. CHANGE EXISTING FLUID & FILTER, (see below) 2. TRANSMISSION FLUSH!, (see below) • Pray again, and thank God for His guidance. 


• Remove the transmission pan. • Remove the old transmission filter. • Replace with a new transmission filter. • Remove the old pan gasket material. • Replace the pan gasket with a new gasket. • Reinstall the pan. • Via transmission dipstick area you will fill WITH the CORRECT transmission fluid, accordingly—USE brand new transmission fluid.


Professionally done, this procedure will “pressure-clean” (vacuum) out the torque converter, orifices, and other housing areas for the transmission, but the flush will not clean the transmission filter.

I think Ford Explorer owners should seek a mass-tort claim on this common problem--THE TRANSMISSION!

- Alfie R., Holly Springs, NC, US

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