This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Ignition doesn't work, steering wheel locks and ignition cylinder occasionally comes out. Also while driving, the steering wheel fell off. The vehicle overheated when the air condition was turned on, the dealer replaced a pinched wire behind the dash, the air condition was not cool enough, the evaporator core had a leak.
The consumer experienced two defects with her vehicle. The back passenger seat belt was placed in backwards per manufacturer, the volume on the radio increased and decreased without control, the gear stick slid off the post, the vehicle stalled when going to a complete stop, the power knob to the radio would become sticky whenever the sun was present, the trunk would not open, the ignition switch jammed twice, the rear view mirror was stuck in the open position, and the steering wheel adjuster did not exist. The consumer requested compensation.
While driving, the vehicle stalled due to electrical failure. There were no brakes or steering. The vehicle crashed into a tree. Driver dislocated her shoulder and sustained a head injury. The rear wheel bearings was replaced, the fuel filter was replaced
The driver placed the key in the ignition but the vehicle would not engage. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for analysis. The mechanic determined the ignition switch needed to be replaced. The ignition switch was replaced two times, power locks were inoperative, alarm was inoperative, trunk inoperative, and the window(s) were hard to close (must be forced down 3-4 times).
Battery cable shorted out. Also, there were some broken wires in the electrical system. Recalls were issued for both of these failures. The manufacturer indicated tht the consumer's vehicle was not included in the recalls due to VIN. The throttle body cable malfuntioned.
- Lebanon, PA, USA
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The consumer noticed that all electrical tail-lights and lights inside the vehicle were lost. Upon inspection by the mechanic on the vehicle, an electrical wire was found to have a short.
Ford Focus SE year 2000; purchased Nov 1999; since 1999 I've had 10 or 11 recalls; a new transmission installed; now my car periodly will not start, I have put the car in the shop from Jan 2003 to Oct 2003 for the same problem; dearler cannot find the problem they give me a new battery to solve the problem; however I still have the problem; I just recently got the car out Oct 24 then on Oct 26 stranded again 30 miles from my house with a 11 month old baby; car would not start. Its back in the shop again on Oct 27. Milage on the car is a little over 73,000 miles my warrenty expires 75000. Is their a lemon law this would fall under. I'm scared to drive the car with my baby. I still owe on the car. What can I do to resolve this problem?
Engine check light illuminated, and vehicle hesitated when trying to accelerate. Dealer determined that there was an electronic malfunction within the vehicle which was sending incorrect codes to the electronic control module.
The owner was unable to unlock the rear doors from the inside and outside. The consumer took the vehicle to the dealer four times. The entire automatic system stopped working. The rear door behind the drivers seat was unable to be unlocked or opened from either the inside or outside of the vehicle. The passenger side door became jammed. The lock(s) were all replaced and failed twice at the dealership. The automatic window's worked intermittently.
Water leak in my 2000 Ford Focus. Upon reading this website I realize the other problems I've had are similar to this car. Car stalling, fuel gauge sticking, radio going out, carpet being replaced, wiper problems etc. When it rains the water can fill the passenger floorboard 2-3 inches. I've had the leak checked at several different places and so far no one can find the leak. According to this website the dealer can't find the problem either. My car is not under warranty any more, and I was informed if the leaking continues it will damage the "brain" computer or electrical system. If that happens and I have to spend a couple thousand to fix, but if the leaking is not found it will just happen again. I feel this car is unsafe and should have a recall. Also, I have not received notice of all the recalls that pertains to this car. I have received only one pertaining to the back real wheel bearing, which was replaced at dealer. But I see that there have been others. Why was I not notified?
At any speed, the vehicle intermittently stalled on the highway. Vehicle had been to the service dealer seven times for the same problem. On one occasion, the dealer replaced the fuel pump, but it did not fix the problem. When the incident happened, after about six minutes, the vehicle could be restarted. Manufacturer and the dealer have been notified. When the vehicle stalled the odometer went blank. When the odometer was functional again, the vehicle could be started. The power relay was found open and was replaced and the fuel pressure dropped while the vehicle was in motion.
The turn signals on the dash appeared to work fine (left and right) but the rear turn signals did not work at all. The consumer stated he received a ticket.
Vehicle has a major electrical problem. While driving vehicle gauges will go "beserk". door chime activates, all lights flicker on and off, transmission changes gears, and the vehicle stalls.
-2000 Ford Focus LX - bought used on April 14th. Both interior and exterior of car in excellent condition, ran extremely well, one owner repo, clean title. -was rear-ended in very low speed, low impact collision, no frame buckling, bending, or damage to car other than scratched rear bumper - truck lid will not latch now. Multiple mechanics and appraisers - unable to find problem. -while driving, dash gauges and car speakers will suddenly stop working (speedometer goes to 0, odometer goes blank, fuel gauge goes to 0) and then spontaneously come back on with no after effects. Car stalled while stopping after one of these episodes. Occasionally when car is started, the odometer will spontaneously reset without prompting (not the main one, the resetable one). -random codes being thrown to computer - car has had two diagnostics run in two weeks, the first for two codes: 1. a mechanical issue, 2. for electrical difficulties in the dashboard - the car was thoroughly inspected and no defects were found. Seven days later the computer reported an "evaporative system leak" - once again the car was thoroughly inspected and no defects were found. After the first diagnostic, a rear brake light went out - after removing the light and "fiddling" with the wiring, the mechanic got its normal function to resume. -the car has 36,000 miles, I had the brakes inspected the day after the car started shaking violently when I pressed the brake pedal. The rotors are warped terribly and I will have to have the entire brake system replaced, including the rear drums - I do not consider this normal, especially in such a young car. -it has had two recalls filled in the last month, one for a pinch bolt and the other for a wheel bearing. No other recall campaigns were open. These problems have continued since the recalls were completed. -I've owned this car for less than a month. The cars pre-purchase inspection came up clean. The car is no longer under any kind of factory warranty.
Car stalls. Sometimes dies while driving even at highway speeds of 55 mph. Have towed car several times to dealer but once there, the car starts and they can't find anything wrong so I have to pay the towing. Last trip to dealer (about a week ago, they did find something wrong and of course what they found was not under warranty) now it happened again....this time we got stranded out of town. This is a very serious problem with the Ford Focus. I bought this car so my son would have reliable transportation but has become more of a problem than not having a car at all. Need help to resolve.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus zts automobile with approximately 10000 miles. I just had a problem with the electric lock system. The electric lock door actuator in the right rear door failed. The entire locking system stopped working and the right forward and left rear doors both locked closed. The doors were not able to be opened manually from the inside or outside. This bothers me because I feel a possible entrapment situation could result if this occurs as a result of a traffic accident or water submerged. My failure occurred as I was loading the car for my trip home from work. I may have had the right rear and left front doors open at the time of the failure, which may explain why they were not affected. Normally, the doors will open from the inside even if locked. This failure overrides that safety feature.
After about 10 days of buying my 2000 Ford Focus the problem. Started and one year later the problems are still coming like clock work. First my breaks were squealing I called the dealer, he said not to worry about it until I had time to come in. 1 to 2 months later, after several calls asking if it was still okay to drive, I took my car in and the routers and breaks were bad, they sd I should have brought my car in sooner. Well per there request I took my time. I had to pay the get this taken care of. It didn't stop there, my tires kept getting flats so I has to once again replace at my own expenses. Now the real problems start, my cruise control was just out of control, my car would accelerate every time I would put in on cruise. The windshield wipers would not work and my radio kept turning off by itself. I had once again at my own expenses replace my windshield wipers calling the maintenance. Dept. At meridian Ford. They fixed the problem. With the cruise control and it was working fine for about 2 months it is now happening again! now I have problems with the key getting stuck and will not turn, the trunk will not shut, and my car will shut off when the car is in idle. It turns off if in park or drive after about one min. Idle. This is very frustrating. And has caused so many financial and stress problems. I don't feel safe in this car and I feel cheated! I was sold a lemon! a list of what was wrong with my new car..bad breaks, bad routers, bad windshield wipers, bad cruise control, bad trunk, bad tires, the key gets stuck and will not turn, and now it turns off while in idle. All these things are still wrong with it and its costing me money, stress, time and it is costing me to be late on my car payments and other bills because I have to pay for all this crap to be fixed! why is this happening! do I need to get a lawyer or do you need to replace or fix my car at your expensive. I have lost so much and feel helpless. I hope this does not fall on deaf ears.
Consumer received poor service from Ford Motor Company, as well as from following local Ford dealers morande Ford of berlin, ct and ray seraphin Ford of vernon ct, and different opinions from Ford employees concerning multiple recalls on A-frame/stereo/windshield wiper motor/rear wheel bearings, electrical system, and sudden acceleration/lurching.
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- Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA