Notes: The 2001 Honda Accord suffers from widespread transmission failure, subframe rust, & problems with the airbag system (SRS). We recommend avoiding this model year like the plague.

The transmission begins slipping & eventually has to be replaced, typically soon after 100,000 miles & with a repair cost of over $2,000. Transmission failure problems have been a huge problem for Honda Accords & other models all through the early 2000s model years. Honda eventually extended the transmission warranty to 93 months/109k miles for the 2000-2001 Accords as settlement for a class action lawsuit, but that period is over & owners of Accords with transmission problems are out of luck.

Subframe rust near the front passenger side wheel has become a problem recently, due to the poorly positioned A/C drain hose directly above that area. Repair cost to the subframe is over $2,000.

The SRS warning light likes to come on due to a defective seat belt sensor -- typically the driver's side. This sensor is covered under Honda's lifetime seat belt warranty, but some dealers charge a $100+ "diagnostic fee" or tell customers the entire SRS unit ($800) is bad. Also make sure your 2001 Accord has been checked for the airbag recall: excessive pressure may cause metal fragments during airbag deployment.


fairly significant
Typical Repair Cost:
Average Mileage:
76,375 miles
Total Complaints:
8 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (6 reports)
  2. clean throttle body (2 reports)
2001 Honda Accord engine problems

engine problem

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2001 Honda Accord Owner Comments

problem #8

Jun 072008

Accord EX 2.4L I-4

  • Manual transmission
  • 115,000 miles


My Accord's accelerator pedal was hard to move off of the idle position first thing in the morning, but this was easily fixed with a simple cleaning of the throttle body + throttle plate, and lubrication with light oil of the bell-crank (device on the outside of the throttle body that moves the throttle plate) + throttle cable. There is nothing unique to the Accord here folks, as all fuel injected cars that use a similar throttle body arrangement will gunk up the throttle plate / throttle body over time, and the amount of clearance between the two component is (necessarily) very small. One note if doing this service yourself - be careful not to use any sharp and/or metal objects to clean the residue off of the inside of the throttle body bore or off of the throttle plate itself. You will ruin them, as they are made of aluminum. Instead, wrap an old rag (non-lint bearing cloth preferably, like an old t-shirt) around a wood handle or stick, soak the rag in carb cleaner, and use that to srub the components carefully. You do not need to remove the throttle body from the car to do this service; just remove the flexible air duct that feeds into the throttle body. If you get the throttle body components real clean, you'll likely notice not only a smoother throttle action, but better throttle response to boot. Figure on doing this every 50k miles or so as part of your regular maintenance.

- , Loveland, OH, USA

problem #7

Jul 132006

(reported on)


  • 65,000 miles

Annoying problem but easily fixed with a few hand tools and a can of carburetor cleaner... Remove the air inlet hose...3" diameter black hose from air cleaner to throttle body... After hose is removed look inside throttle body... You will see a circular plate inside.. Open the throttle.. Either with your hand where the cable attaches or have a friend whom you trust with your fingers to step on and hold the gas for you... Now spray some carb cleaner into the opening... Then take your fingers and rub the inside of the body to remove the carbon... Another spray of the carb cleaner and you are almost done.... Reattach the hose to the air filter box and throttle body... Start the engine.. IT will probably run rough for a minute or two since you just sprayed a bunch of fuel into the engine... It is usually best to rev the engine steadily at about 2500 rpm to clear it our... This fix should last 20-30k

- , Hellertown, PA, US

problem #6

Feb 012007

(reported on)

Accord DX 2.0L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 113,000 miles

After my car sits for over a hour or two, the gas petal becomes stuck. after I get the car in drive of reverse the pedal wont move. I have to damn near stomp, with caution not to hit someone else it to get it to move. When I press it really hard Im afraid that it will speed off too fast and hit someone else. I have had several people look at it and all they can figure it that maybe it needs oil. which doesnt help at all. Im really thinking that I have a lemon.

- , Oglethorpe, GA, USA

problem #5

Apr 252006

(reported on)

Accord LX

  • 53,000 miles


Gas pedal (accelerator) sticks when I start driving in the morning. It disappears shortly after car starts moving. I thought it was lubrication problem and put some WB lube on the pedal shaft, but problem came back again.

- , Portland, OR, US

problem #4

Sep 272006

(reported on)


  • 60,000 miles

I have had the same issue with the accelerator sticking. I have only noticed it in the morning and it does not seem to affect the driving but is very annoying.

- , Atlanta, GA, USA

problem #3

Apr 102006

(reported on)

Accord EX

  • 60,000 miles

This is simply frustrating. I wouldn't pay to have it fixed, but the car sticks when first starting out. You have to press the accellerator kinda hard and then you're fine... until the next time you start it up!!

- , Winston-Salem, NC, USA

problem #2

Mar 192006

(reported on)

Accord EX

  • 75,000 miles

My accelerator started sticking a few months ago. It seems to go away right after I begin to accelerate.

- , Tucson, AZ, USA

problem #1

Nov 122005

(reported on)


  • 70,000 miles

each morning when i start the car the accelerator sticks. This happens only at the start when I go out into traffic. Later in the day it seems to be OK.

- , Buchanan, MI, USA

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