This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
1) The failed component is the door locks. Or more precisely, the motor for the electrical operation of the door locks. When failed, the door remains locked even when pulling on the interior handle to open the door or when trying to unlock the door using the interior latch. You are essentially locked inside your car. I believe the door should always unlock when the handle is pulled, and the interior lock lever should always unlock the door as well. Both of these function "normally" when the actuator is not failed. The failure first appeared in late 2018/early 2019. I noticed that when I locked the vehicle using the key fob, I was not hearing the audible "beep." And when the car was shifted out of PARK, I was not hearing all the doors lock. I then realized the drivers front door was not locking. I lived with this for a while, long enough for the drivers side rear door to fail, and then the right rear door failed as well. The front right and rear door have never failed. I purchased a Toyota lock assembly for the drivers side front and it functioned perfectly after replacement until this past week. It appears to have failed again. And I was essentially trapped in the drivers seat. I had to give it and electrical command to unlock while pushing on the manual lever in order for the door to unlock. Pulling the open handle did not open the door, and pushing on the manual lock lever did not open the lock. The failed component appears to be a small motor in the lock assy. I replaced this motor in the left and right rear door lock assembly's and that corrected the problem. I am going to replace the motor in the lock assy I removed in 2019 and reinstall it in hopes of correcting the problem. I can send you the Toyota lock assy I will remove, and one of the motors I removed from one of the rear door lock assembly's. 2)The failed door locks trap occupants inside the vehicle. 3)Did not visit a dealer or repair center. 4)No inspections have been performed. 5)No
The problem is the reproduction of a vehicle illegally by a dealer. My federal information & later my vehicle & home were obtained after my phone was cloned. Vehicle has airbag recalls from takata. Vin- [XXX]. (It-€™s and emergency vehicle) INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
My vehicle was in motion, and the engine shut off. I was able to restart the vehicle several times, but it would only continue running for 5 to 60 seconds. After about 30 minutes the vehicle started and drove to my destination (home). The problem persisted for 3 days, with only one successful short drive amidst several stalls and restarts. Each time the vehicle started, but did not run for long before dying. I towed it to my local Toyota dealership 9 days ago and they were not able to find any issue... the problem seems to have fixed itself, at least for now. However, today the news reported a recall for newer model 4 runners that have a problem with the fuel pump causing the vehicle to stall while driving, posing a serious risk. I believe this may be the same issue that is affecting my 2013 4 runner.
The key is getting bent in the ignition switch - either not allowing the key to be removed. Has been re-keyed by the dealership once and the problem has occurred again in less then a month.
This involves the back up camera. It seems to work when it wants too. Most of the time it does not work. The dealer has not been able to find the problem. Sometimes when you open and close the lift gate it will work for a short time period.
1) the guy who complained about the brake pedal being too close to the gas pedal is right. My foot gets caught under the brake pedal when I'm trying to take my foot off the gas and go for the brakes. I guess I'm still used to my '99 4runner. He also complained that the brake pedal depresses so far that he sometimes also hits the gas. He's right on that too. The dealer says for some reason after a while the brake pedal just goes really soft, pretty dramatically, in my case from the previous day. I have about 27000 miles. Dealer says only remedy is a $125-$150 brake fluid change. 2) the outside temperature gauge doesn't work, so don't expect to be alerted in a timely manner if the roads are ready to freeze over and become icy. Dealer checked it and said it was fine, its not fine. It seems to be usually off by 10 degrees and otherwise reacts so slowly to changes in temperature so as to be useless. Soft brake pedal started in early 2017. Temperature gauge has never worked well.
The piston(s) that hold the hatch up have failed, while the vehicle was stationary. Since the hatch can not stay up, I can not tell whether it is one or both. Luckily, this occurred while the hatch was being lifted and not afterwards with an individual under the hatch. After the failure, I have raised the hatch and the let it shut with its own weight. If someone was putting something into the back of the vehicle, there is no doubt that a serious injury would have occurred. My son, who has a 2012 model, indicated they had the same problem.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Westminster, CO, USA