ANNOUNCEMENT: The Car Book 2018 is now online!

Ratings on over 1,000 new & used models going back 5 years, from the Center from Auto Safety. Learn more about The Car Book 2018 here. Notes: The 2004-2006 Nissan Maxima has widespread transmission problems. It starts with the vehicle jerking when shifting, & progresses to full-blown transmission failure.

Maxima owners report spending $3,000 to replace the transmission, typically around when the odometer hits 100,000 miles.

There's a class action lawsuit filed in late 2011, & it is still in the "discovery" stage. Apparently, these things take time ... far too much time.


really awful
Typical Repair Cost:
Average Mileage:
101,100 miles
Total Complaints:
6 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. not sure (4 reports)
  2. replace engine coils (1 reports)
  3. replace valve cover gasket (1 reports)
2004 Nissan Maxima engine problems

engine problem

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2004 Nissan Maxima Owner Comments

problem #6

May 152014

Maxima SL 3.5

  • Automatic transmission
  • 94,392 miles


Had to replace the valve cover gasket at less than 100K. I can't believe all the money I've had to put in this car!

- Sharon R B., Brandon, FL, US

problem #5

Mar 012014

Maxima SE 3.5L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 130,000 miles

cylinder number 2 is only getting 40% compression

this problem is reeking havoc with every part of the car, burning oil, fuel consumption, rotten egg smell, the computers give false readings, it stalls, idles like sh*t. the dealership quoted me $5000, actually told me to buy a new car.

- Keith B., saskatoon, Saskatchewan, canada

problem #4

Dec 182009


  • Manual transmission
  • 75,000 miles

Codes P0507, P1122, P1121 04 Maxima, 5 speed, receiving codes P0507, P1122, P1121 MY mechanic has been unable to find out what the problem is

Symptoms: Engine service light is on, engine suddenly almost stalls when accelerating and to get to 40 mph you have to almost push down the entire gas pedal for it to run. When the engine is turned on cold, the engine hesitates for 2-4 seconds and then it goes to idle. After the engine has warmed up and while driver the rpm go sky high, then car decelerates, Like it is not getting any gas.1st-5th gears will not make the car move, twice while pressing on the gas pedal the car accelerates very real quick, moments later it will decelerate and engine stalls out, the idle is really really rough, erroneous idle, idle is sputtering. It is like the timing is off, bad gas type of sputtering, Have ruled out bad gas, the clutch & battery both have been replaced and the problem is still occurring after 5 minutes of driver when the engine gets warm. Throttle has been cleaned; there are no vacuum leaks or valve leaks found.

- M A., Houston, TX, USA

problem #3

May 032011

Maxima SE 3.5L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 130,000 miles


The engine coils have had to be replaced many times. Engine problems led to catalytic converter failure and later transmission. I'm not sure what started what. Motor mounts have been replaced a few times. Transmission is stuck in 5 now.

- Antonio V., Millis, MA, USA

problem #2

May 222009

Maxima SL 3.5L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 93,500 miles

I just need to know if there were any more complaints on the car.

- Larry H., Lancaster, CA, USA

problem #1

Aug 032008

Maxima 3.5 SE V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 83,518 miles

Bought 2004 Maxima 11/06 with 50330 on mileage 2 days later had problem starting car. Dealer said key was problem-wrong, replaced fuel pump twice-wrong, then after keeping the car for 2 weeks they finally gave up and just replaced the whole computer unit (ECCS Control Unit) was done 5/2007. Then the engine control module, injectors (due to 9 leaks), chain tens side guide, chain guide camshaft (2), seal-oil crankshaft front, gasket rocker cover (2), seal o ring, fltr asy oil, washer drain, enoil description...all that was done 4/2007.

March 2008 I complained that I thought my transmission was slipping and they told me I needed a transmission flush so I paid almost $200 for that and then in they told me my brackets needed replacing.

Now my car stopped on me while at a light restarted the car and press the accelerator and the RPM went to 2 and the car was barely moving. Which seems like the same issue as before just worst. To make a long story short now I need (2) cam sensor, crank sensor, and the mass airflow meter which after those get replaced the computer will need program costing $771 not including taxes.

I have a Certified Limited Limited Warranty and they say these items are not cover but the crank sensor seal and the camshaft sensor seal are covered. I called Gray Daniels Service asking what the difference was and he said the seal is included with the sensor but can be bought separate.

Then I went to the General Manager today as he was walking toward me he looks at his watch (3:45) and approached me asking can he help. I told him the ordeal and he basically threw me garbage saying there wasnothing he could do since it was late in the evening.

- Denise G., Jackson, MS, US

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