CarComplaints.com Notes: The 2000 Honda Accord suffers from widespread transmission failure, subframe rust, & problems with the airbag system (SRS). We recommend avoiding this model year like the plague.
The transmission begins slipping & eventually has to be replaced, typically soon after 90,000 miles & with a repair cost of over $2,000.
Subframe rust near the front passenger side wheel has become a problem recently, due to the poorly positioned A/C drain hose directly above that area. Repair cost to the subframe is over $2,000.
The SRS warning light likes to come on due to a defective seat belt sensor -- typically the driver's side. This sensor is covered under Honda's lifetime seat belt warranty, but some dealers charge a $100+ "diagnostic fee" or tell customers the entire SRS unit ($800) is bad.
7.4
pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
$320
Average Mileage:
108,500 miles
Total Complaints:
13 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
not sure (7 reports)
engine cpu replaced (3 reports)
carbon build up in manifold. have it cleaned out (1 reports)
My 2000 Honda Accord SE would start very hard and then started stalling for no reason at all. The whole car would just shut down except the dashboard lights. I could not steer. The correct fix is a new ECU and Fuel Pressure Regulator. I believe it comes in a kit. The main relay and oxygen sensor and all that will only provide a temporary fix. I believe Honda tells the mechanics to do this in order to get money out of you. However, the issue is very dangerous and you could die if a truck is behind you and your car just stops. Honda really needs to do a recall on the years that need this change or at least offer a very nice discount seeing the ECU and Fuel Pressure Regulator are incorrect.
Overall I love my car and it has been quite reliable, but a problem I wanted to share is one that occured for about a 3 month period during the summer of 2012. When disengaging my clutch and slowing to a stop (freeway off ramps, red lights, etc.) my car would periodically stall. When I'd immediately try to restart the engine it would just turn over, and turn over, as if there was a loss of ignition power. If I cycled the key all the way off then attempted to start the engine it would fire up and I could get the car moving before the horns behind me got too bad. Heard there was an ignition recall on the model but Honda said it didn't apply to my model. The problem subsided along with SoCal's summer heat, but I fully expect the same thing again next summer. Just wanted to share.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe that I bought used. I've had no problems with it up until now (and other than the common EGR problem, which I had fixed). The car has alot of miles (over 177,000). The problem now is that the car will start, but after a few seconds of very rough idling, it will die. I've learned to gun the engine while in park as soon as I turn it on and try to pop it into drive or reverse as quickly as possible because the car runs perfectly fine when it isn't idling. I hear it's called "heat soak"...?
I've done research on this for a while now, with some luck...
I guess I'm just here to try and confirm the idea that replacing the fuel pressure regulator will work. I hope this helps anyone else dealing with this problem, and once I get brave enough to try the fuel pressure regulator theory out myself, I'll definitely give you guys an update...
My engine light came on a few days ago. I ran to the store and when I was ready to head home my car started but rumbled/shook a little. I drive up the street to another store and was done shopping in about 20 minutes. I go to start my car and it started but then rumbled and cut off. I tried several times to start the car, then called AAA for a tow. In about a half hour the tow truck gets there and the driver starts the car right up and drives it up onto the truck. My mechanic tells me they tried all day to duplicate the problem but to no avail.
My gripe is when mechanics don't know the problem and play the guessing game in trying different remedies to fix the problem. Every time they play the game it costs the consumer money for something that doesn't work.
- seto,
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Aside from this stalling problem the car runs well. I've had my car for almost 8 yrs and have alot of miles on it. Over 165K miles! The problem started when the car reached 100K miles.
It would randomly stall when I hit stoplights or stop signs. Then it would have problems starting. It doesn't seem like its the battery or the starter..because the car would start but doesn't run. It would die after about a second. But the crazy thing is, similar to the others in this forum. It only happens once in a while and under extreme weather conditions (ie..very cold or very hot day)..I've taken it to three mechanics and they all told me nothing is wrong w/ the car..I have also had the battery changed, alternator changed, water pump changed...but problem still persists..if anyone has any advice on how to fix this problem please let us all know..thnx!
The first time I had the stalling problem (see post) they finally agreed that it was a problem only after I got the car to stall right in front of them. They can't argue with what they saw right in front of their eyes. Even the mechanic and service representative tried to start the car and had the engine die on them right there. Again they could not argue when it happened to them and I was right there.
Before that they said they could not replicate the problem and could not do anything for me. (read: we do not want to pay for the repairs since it was under warranty)
They replaced the engine CPU and the repair invoice had a code that mentioned a heat soak problem so it is in their database as a potential problem
Well this year it stalled again on me once. However I can now make provisions in case it happens.
1. It happens only after stop and go traffic and the car gets nice and hot and I try and start the car about 20 minutes after stopping. They said they could not replicate the problem at the dealers so I think having the transmission in gear and maybe heat from the brakes may also add to the heat that causes the problem. Having the air conditioner on turns the engine fan on and that cools the engine a bit. Might be enough so the engine will not stall.
2. It does not happen on hot days when the car can get airflow to the engine.
3. When parking I reverse in so the front is pointing out so I can drive forward to go. If the engine stalls I can start the car again and blip the throttle to keep the revs up. Before it stalls I put it into gear (let the RPM drop to around 700 but not stalled out yet). For some reason when in gear it will not stall out. It might stutter a bit for a few seconds but it soon returns to normal RPM and I can drive away and get home. Left to cool overnight the car starts right away the next day.
My best guess is some circuit board in the CPU will expand when it gets enough heat and causes it to malfunction. When you stop the car after stop and go traffic the heat rises and hits the CPU. If cooled enough the CPU circuit board will work again.
Could it be fuel vaporization? Maybe but it doesn't explain why my car will not stall out when I put it into gear after stalling out.
Similar to what others have reported. When I drive the car for a while, particularly in hot weather, then park it for 10-40 minutes, the engine idles very roughly when I start it up, and stalls out the moment I put into gear (drive or reverse).
I have to simultaneously gun the engine and put it in gear. As soon as I go a few yards forward the problem disappears! But, living in NYC, if I am parked in small space, it can be a real pain to get the car positioned so I can gun the engine a go forward.
Solenoid? Valve? Had the car tuned, filters changed etc, but didn't help.
On three occasions I have taken my vehicle to Honda dealers for repairs. The check engine lights comes on. The first dealer said it was spark plugs and replaced them and the problem went away for about 2 weeks. The second dealer diagnosed and replaced the Ignition coil, this lasted about three weeks. The last dealer (out of town) diagnosed and replaced the fuel regulator, this lasted about a month. It have cost about $900 and the check engine light is still on. HELP!!!!!
Honda Accord 2000, 108000 miles. I noticed today my car hesitated a bit before starting and then the check engine light came on. also Car would start and then stall out. It seems this is a common problem but no concrete answers so far. Any input?
Had the car for a while and drive it a lot and then about 4 months ago when i was backing out of my parking space my car would hesitate a bit. Did not pay any attention thought it was just the cold. Then I went to the gym one day after coming home from my 40 minute commute. Spent about an hour at the gym and then the car would not catch. Car would start and then stall out. Since then this has happened about 4 times. I have taken it to the shop 4 times and they don't see a problem even though it happened right in front of one of techs. Had my idle air valve replaced because the car wouldn't idle upon start up, it would just die. That did not work. Did some research and it may be that boiling fuel is in the fuel rail. Will let everyone know.
After driving stop and go for an hour the car would get hot. if I parked it and went shopping for about 20 minutes and returned to the car it would start but then die. The problem goes away if the car is allowed to cool enough.
It is a known problem called "heat soak" or something. Not bad enough for a recall but happens enough that there is a repair notice.
Not an easy problem to replicate in front of the dealer as it only happens under certain situations. Only after a 3rd visit and having the car die in front of a mechanic were they willing to believe that there was a problem.
Leaving the car idling for a few hours does not replicate the problem
Not easy to solve because it goes away by itself and comes back days or weeks or months after. Dealing with this for three years. Bought the car new, always been to dealer for maintenance. Brought the car to dealer twice for that problem; going a third time next week. Apart that the car is great.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
My 2000 Honda Accord SE would start very hard and then started stalling for no reason at all. The whole car would just shut down except the dashboard lights. I could not steer. The correct fix is a new ECU and Fuel Pressure Regulator. I believe it comes in a kit. The main relay and oxygen sensor and all that will only provide a temporary fix. I believe Honda tells the mechanics to do this in order to get money out of you. However, the issue is very dangerous and you could die if a truck is behind you and your car just stops. Honda really needs to do a recall on the years that need this change or at least offer a very nice discount seeing the ECU and Fuel Pressure Regulator are incorrect.
- Mary H., Lexington Park, MD, US